Leader weight for Hauraki Gulf

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    Posted: 24 Nov 2021 at 3:44pm
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Is anyone using 15lb fluoro or should I stick with 20?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote The Tamure Kid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov 2021 at 6:09pm
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20lb is a good allrounder for softbaiting, I reckon. 

But the Gulf is a big place, so I would have a few different leaders on hand. If you're fishing one of the renowned big fish spots with potential reef etc, - say Little Barrier, then I would step up to 25lb for the abrasion resistance against teeth and rocks.

But in, say, the Tamaki Strait or off the Bays over sand, 15lb would be okay for the relatively smaller pannies. 

You'd probably get more takes on that weight, too. Though if you get snagged on anything, it's basically good night nurse to your jighead.

Some brands are quite a bit thinner than others at the same claimed breaking strain...so that's another factor to consider.


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote smudge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov 2021 at 7:06pm
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I haven't fished the gulf for many years but yeah I'd do as TTK says. 20lb serves me well out west but reefs aren't a problem for us and there just seems no need to go lighter. I know many who use 15lb out deep out there and very successfully. But yeah in heavier foul I would be nervous
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote doctor fish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov 2021 at 8:34pm
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Good advice thanks, I guess why go lighter if 20lb works well.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (2) Likes(2)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2021 at 7:57am
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I started with 15lb but tended to get too many break offs, espec around bottom end Waiheke... damage from the fish to the leader and clipping the off bit rock laying around.
Went to 20lb and made a huge difference with no real change to anything else.

later went up to 30lb, then hook ups seemed to drop off..
Black magic fulro being the go to.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Pcj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2021 at 8:37am
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Never used fluro but thinking about it.Do you use same knots as mono??

Fluro is it suppose to be not seen underwater??

Nephew uses it but never explained as to why and we seem equal on catch rates.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote tjm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2021 at 8:43am
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I agree with Steps, modern 20-25ilb mono  or fluro is so fine it doesn't make much difference, I tend to like the heavier stuff because the Gulf holds some large fish and it gives a little more security.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2021 at 9:26am
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I thought fluro has far better rub resistance???
 Other than that , as per above, doesnt make much difference for hook up..

I was alway told to check your trace for any nicks , rough..
 9 times out of 10, it is something like this that causes you to loose that big fish... not your knot (unless use one that crosses main load at 90 deg inside the knot)
 Down side, catch a big shark on and nothing wants to break him off, other than a sharp knife, or he eventually wears or cuts thru the trace.

This is the basic reason why SB traces start out rather long...
And why all my traces are pre tied, pre hooked before leaving home.
Trace breaks, or gets a few knicks in/ wear or a fish shollows a hook, or  simply want to change hook size...
 New traces ready to go on old spools etc.. unclip old trace, dump in 'old trace container' grap new trace by small loop, hook on main line, unroll.. ready to go in seconds.
 If a line is not in the water you dont catch fish.
 you would be surprised the amount of time crew spend re tiring traces, while the rest of us are pulling fish over the side... then the frezny 'dies' as they drop their line in.

I carry  as 'stock' in my trace box, 5 spare straylines , 6 droppers, plus what has been preloaded on the rods.

Now being primarly over the bar west coast.. still use the sb rod for casting into boil ups... found far more successful than  'trolling' around or thru...
I have gone bit experimental..no trace.. sb on sb lure clip that is on a 25lb std swivel and clip...off the main line.
Seems to work just as well. (???)
 It also enables be to go from a sb/ lure , quickly to a stray line.

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I use a 15lb fluorocarbon leader in Northland, but only fish over sand for snapper. I'm pretty meticulous about cutting out or changing damaged leader and my gear is balanced. 3-6kg rod; 2500 reel; 15lb braid. I also play my fish rather than winch them in and don't expect to swing anything than a just legal fish or smaller in to the hand. Otherwise, it's net or grab the jig head. Interestingly, I lose fewer kingfish on this light gear than my heavier setups. Softly, softly catchee monkey.  
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote strx7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 2021 at 2:22pm
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when fishing over sand I tend to use 15lb, I do believe you get more takes with it.  any fish above 30cm will get netted to get lifted out of the water.  If you have a prolonged fight with a large fish I'll cut the bottom few cm off and re-tie the knot.  in regards to line diameters, apon compaing a lot of lines and their diameter's recently, any line that claims "great abrasion resistance" is thicker to start with than the same rated line not claiming that.....  so in other words is - it's thicker to start with, takes more to rub through....
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote The Tamure Kid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 2021 at 6:53pm
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Originally posted by Pcj Pcj wrote:

Never used fluro but thinking about it.Do you use same knots as mono??

Fluro is it suppose to be not seen underwater??

Nephew uses it but never explained as to why and we seem equal on catch rates.

The most common leader used in soft baiting is definitely fluoro.
Understandable, as that's what shop assistants, books, magazine articles etc tell us to use.

yes, you can tie Uni, Lefty's (Rapala) Loop Knots, etc with fluoro. And the FG works well with mono to join leader to braid.

I've seen some fairly robust views based on research that the invisibility thing is actually bull (both in fly fishing and salt water forums and articles). I can't see it would make much difference fishing in places where water clarity isn't great.
But as mentioned in the thread, greater abrasion resistance is the other key reason given for using fluoro, and that seems to be relatively more based on fact. I've never done any experiments, but some people have (see YouTube).

On the other hand, one guy I followed on YouTube fishes inshore Australian waters for flathead etc using lures and strongly advises against using fluoro if you target fish that do lots of head shaking - as mono has more stretch to absorb that.

I use fluoro due to the reason at that start of this post, but my experience is that there's cheap fluoro, and then there's quality fluoro (usually Japanese). 
Some certainly is easier for tying knots, doesn't curl as much after being on your reel etc etc.

Having said all that, I caught a big snapper up north when I decided to drag a heavily weighted softbait behind the boat that I'd earlier been casting for kingies under a work up - using 60lb Varivas Mono Shock Leader that looks like rope next to my normal softbait leaders. So the fish obviously wasn't particularly alarmed down on the bottom in 20m of fairly clear Northland sea.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 2021 at 7:36pm
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any fish above 30cm will get netted to get lifted out of the water.

I mind set had before moving to the west coast.. Then the constant flow of 50/60/occasional low 70s come over the gunnels.. not uncommon 2 a time..
Forget the net, look down , very quickly see how the hook has set...if all good which usually is, grab the leader and lift over.. Only time may loose something is if a trev  a KY . Never lift a trev or JD.


my experience is that there's cheap fluoro, and then there's quality fluoro (usually Japanese). 
Some certainly is easier for tying knots, doesn't curl as much after being on your reel etc etc.

Big yep.
Curling on the reel is usually when its put on wrong way.
Fluro and mono sort of has a memory from when on the original spool in the shop....It important to have it come off the spool onto the reel in the same direction...eg off the top of the spool, and onto the top of the reel, making sure as taking of the spool you dont twist it.


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