Tow vehicle - Underbody sprays/protection

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    Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 9:57am
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Hi team,

Wondering if anyone has paid to have the underbody of their ute/tow vehicle sprayed to prevent corrosion? Have a fairly new truck that we don't plan on using off the beach, but some of the local ramps are relatively shallow and would hate to wreck the vehicle. Not interested in hearing about tow ropes etc. more interested in products used like here:


Cheers
I just want to jig
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jul 2019 at 11:22am
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If trailer set up ok on most ramps, even at low tides, you can still keep the rear wheels out of the water.
 may get feet wet when using the winch.
 We never got our old 96 bighorn sealed.. and still nil rust underneath.. checked regularly on the hoist.

 Thu we are looking to get it sealed now for driving on west coast beaches.
A thread on the subject a few weeks back.
 Still undecided what to do .

Going on most of the locals which would also apply to you I think.
 Never blast/ high pressure hose or water blaster....more volume of water and  heavy spray.. pressure drives the sand/ salt up into crevasses and seams.. local long term opinion based on yrs of experience.

Road works lime is big bad news... always rinsed off as above over the yrs on all our vehicles..
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MATTOO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 2019 at 5:32pm
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I believe if you pay for protection you will win.

A reall quality hi build under seal is money worth spent.

From a minimum, inox on a regular basis.
Then a lanolin.

With any protection there is more than one product that needs to be put in place.
And before corrosion or new is the best time.
It never stops regular maintenance.
You need to get that in your head.
There is no one stop remedy.
There is always maintenance.

So really good high build underseal and tar, epoxy best.
Then there's moving parts. Oils, lanolin and grease.
Appropriate zones for vehicle function.

Clean and clean again.
Regular respraying of oils lanolin and grease.

What I'm saying it's a misssion, it needs attention and it costs money and your time.
If you spend the money and time you'll get great results.
If you get slack, that salt water will slap you in the face.

It's an fn challenge.
It depends on your commitment, budget or attitude around your tools, or toys.
Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote pjc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 2019 at 5:42pm
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You may not dip your vehicle in  the tide but there is always salt water on the ramp and it will get in. No matter how much protection you put on still need to rinse.

Friends house is 5kms from the sea but due to prevailing wind alloy windows have corrosion.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Catchelot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 2019 at 6:17pm
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My Dad is an old school Panelbeater and he used to apply techtyl and Shell Anstis as a rust preventer and brush it on underneath and around the chassis areas, plus exposed areas on boat trailers.

Not sure if those are still sold but even old sump oil and a bit of diesel makes a good ole school rust treatment. 

Lanolin is good, but harder to apply and maybe more costly.


"The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever." - Jacques Cousteau
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 2019 at 1:02pm
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Good info Mattoo Thumbs Up

A few comments from my asking questions for some time.
 If you have applied oils, lanolin etc, then apply a tar/ epoxy/ skin type product later.. it is very difficult to remove, get those out of seams etc and causes long term issues with the new product seeping into gaps/ adhering.
Salt is not the only issue, sand/ irons sand that have been trapped, stuck up in seams, and such even harder with oils greases, cause mayor future issues.

So dont use inox, lanolins etc then get fully under sealed later.
And get under sealed before getting any sand/ salt trapped in seems etc

The whole issue is not a lot different to trailer care, except the chassis / bodies are usually epoxy galv dipped at assembly, rather than hot dipped galved.

Clean and clean again.
Regular respraying of oils lanolin and grease.

What I'm saying it's a misssion, it needs attention and it costs money and your time.
If you spend the money and time you'll get great results.
If you get slack, that salt water will slap you in the face.

It's an fn challenge.
It depends on your commitment, budget or attitude around your tools, or toys.

And not a truer comment could be made

PS Lanolin tends to come in arosol, good for mist spray under engine cowls, and mage up into body seams.
And comes in a pot..cant the constancy , now, my 5L pot gets rather hard even in summer..
I find digging about 3/4 of a med pickle jar out, top up with turps kero or similar...stab dedicated paint brush in to dissolve up heaps and have softer stuff stick to the brush. Then paint on generously, and it runs in to seams, etc very well.
 Been using for many yrs on my house , ungalved trailer, boat trailer with great success.
 Quick easy, messy, very effective
 If the turps soln is not too thick, can put in a pressure sprayer, with spray nozzle on extension, and spray up into drain holes, cavities, hard to reach places.
 My got to after yrs of fisholene/ techcrial etc

 But have not done the big horn yet because dont want to use this type of application that can have black sand stick to it up inside body seams.. then be trapped if decide to fully under seal.. plus adherence issues,


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Garry 23041 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jul 2019 at 5:18pm
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The guy up here that does the police cars etc and a lot of the fishing guys from 90 mile beach did mine with lanoline.

He says lanoline is 18months where fish oil and ripo last 12 months...

Lanoline ( not in a spray can but he uses thicker through a spray pot) will stay wet for a while so don't go on the beach or in the dust for a bit after applying if you go that way.

My problem with underbody sealers etc is if they start to break down at all they will wind up trapping sand and moisture against the steel?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2019 at 3:01pm
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My problem with underbody sealers etc is if they start to break down at all they will wind up trapping sand and moisture against the steel?

And that is why I have not as yet lanolin/ whatever so far...
If I do from what I have found is it is very likely to compromise a full undersell..

The rest of your info is very much along the lines I understand to date.
Im thinking, get the bih horn up on a hoist, full degrease clean underneath...full under seal....then maintenance with lanoline
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote letsgetem Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2019 at 7:25pm
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My 13 years old Ford Courier was showing some rust under. I occasionally drove it on a beach to launch, but decided to discontinue beach launches, to save the ute for a longer life. Two years ago, had a underbody treatment by Autoblast (north Shore). First - sand blast back to bare metal. Second - spray cold galvanising coating (think said zinc and aluminium). Third - spray epoxy paint. Fourth - spray thick underseal.
 
So -  sand blast, plus 3 coats. Cost - $2,700. Expensive, but I hope it will last at least another 20 years (or until I die, whichever sooner).
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Garry 23041 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jul 2019 at 7:44pm
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I had my truck painted with two pot then straight to the lanoline but I don't drive it on the beach.

I spray it myself every two years with some more lanoline after a water blast.
Ok so far.

I think as long as you prep well like any paint job it should hold up what ever you do.

The thing about re coating washing is it gets you under there checking things out which is good.

I have seen undercoat dry and kind of crack before hence my earlier comment. Probably really old and crap product to be fair.

Sounds like your truck will see you out bigtime letsgetem!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2019 at 8:33am
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First - sand blast back to bare metal.

 Thats a bit scary... modern.. well post last 50 +yrs for many makes, epoxy dipped bodies.. this epoxy in most cases is high quality and damn near impossible to sand blast off easy.
Having been etched then dipped it was never recommended to remove unless damaged.
 If anyone has has a body sandblasted (or media blast is the norm) before resto...no matter what you do , there will be sand dropping out of seams crevices for yrs to come...
Its also a pain, sometimes one is spraying up and one disturbs a little sand in a crevice.
 If doing your own car, one tends to be rather anall about getting the sand out.. where time is money....

Second - spray cold galvanising coating

Cold galv at best is a short term patch...even if epoxy biased...
Epoxy dosnt go over galv, if anything the cold galv will be epoxy based.
 Ideally in this sort of application, de grease,  por15 etch,  2 coats Por15.. then any under seal whatever.
Por 15 is not cheap but goes a hell of a long way.


I have seen undercoat dry and kind of crack before hence my earlier comment. Probably really old and crap product to be fair.

That used to be the older stuff last century.. usually the home aerosol type stuff.. often also used in some panel shops...plus poor prep... had been down that route in the past in particular the ventilation cavity behind the fenders on classic Chevys.
 The new stuff, been looking at quite a few now that have been done for a while.. often from near new...they are solid.

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