DIY Lure Building

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    Posted: 03 Sep 2010 at 2:00pm
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Making a Lipped Stick Bait

In this "How to" I am making a lipped stick bait that is 175mm long and will be around the 2-2.5oz mark when finished. Wood used is Radiata Pine 35mmx35mm.

Tools used-

  • Mini Lathe
  • Bandsaw
  • Drill press
  • Assorted turning chisels
  • Forstner Bits

First up I grabbed a piece of 35mmx35mm pine and cut it to the exact finished length I wanted the lure to be. I marked out where I would like the eyes on the lure and position of the belly swivel and weight.

 
Over to the drill press where I used a 1/2" forstner bit for drilling out the eye socket, I guessed the depth I would need as I can always touch it up later if they are too shallow.
 
 
Still at the drill press, now drilling the belly weight hole and the swivel hole, I drilled down to just below the centre line.
 
 
All that is left before turning the lure is to cut a slot so I can fit a metal lip later on.
 
 
I marked the block on the ends to find the centre by drawing a line from corner to corner and mounted the piece in the lathe.
 
 
Started turning the block down to a round piece of wood, and cut in to end of the piece to mark how big I wanted the tail to be.
 
 
Now it is just a matter of shaping the lure, keeping it simple with a nice curve.
 
 
Finished shaping the lure, a quick touch up on the eye sockets to even the depths out and then started sanding, working from heavy grit to fine.
 
 
Now I have fitted the jacobs chuck to the lathe with a 4.5mm long series drill bit.
 
 
Now this is why it was important to start with the block of wood the exact length I wanted the lure to be, I have two perfectly centred marks from the spur centre and live centre on the lathe from when the lure was turned. Now it is just a matter of setting up the lure.
 
 
Slowly feeding the lure into the drill bit, making sure I back the lure out and clear sawdust and chips out every 25mm or so. Be careful as if the drill bit gets too hot they can snap in the wood ruining both a good lure and bit. I kept drilling untill I had got to the hole closest to the eye.
 
 
Perfectly centred hole in the lure.
 
 
I have now got to mark where to drill for the wire to pass through the metal lip. The tow point is lower than centre so I fit the lip and mark where I need to drill from.
 
 
Now it is pure guess work from here, I need the hole to line up with the hole I drilled from the tail through the centre of the lure. I spent a little time making sure I was straight and on the right angle and then went for it.
 
 
Now with all the drilling done I can fit the belly wieght, 7mm diameter and around 6grams cast from lead. Fit the wieght and then apply some wood putty or car filler (bog) to the hole and let dry.
 
 
 
 
I will carry on this thread and the lure when the filler drys, time for a cuppa.
 
 
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote kadin32815 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep 2010 at 2:13pm
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cool report with everyone having a go im tempted to start one my self its just a mater of clearing off the lathe lol is pine the best wood or would somthing lighter be beter like popler might see if the old man can rig my up a long drill bit to
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep 2010 at 2:33pm
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Go for it kadin, Pine is ok to use but there is no limit to what you could use just it may be better suited to a certain style of lure because of the woods density etc...
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Capt Asparagus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep 2010 at 3:16pm
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Brilliant post.... great stuff man. Looking forward to seeing the rest of it!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 7:41pm
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Ok now the wood filler has dried and is able to be sanded back.
 
 
Now is the time to touch up any thing on the lure, sanding out scratches etc.
 
The lure now needs to be sealed, an unsealed lure can swell and crack/split which won't be any good to anyone.
 
The product I have been using lately is Norski Epoxy Timber Sealer, works great, long pot life aswell 24hrs. As I was only coating 1 lure I mixed up 3grams of the base and 3grams of the hardner using some scales ( wait till the mrs is out)
 
 
I brushed on the coating allowing it to soak in, recoating dull patches. I make sure to load the brush and pour sealer in to the belly swivel hole untill sealer drips out of the hole at the tail and the nose. Then I placed the lure on a nail to dry.
 
 
 
Another alternative to epoxy sealer is a 60/40 mix of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. Just submerge the lure in the mix for a half hour, remove and let dry completely (about 2-3 days)
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 8:23pm
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Epoxy sealer is dry and has had a quick scuff up and is ready for paint. I usually dip the lure in some waterbased enamel and hang up to drip/dry. This gives you a super smooth finish and covers imperfections really well. I didn't want to wait another day so I just sprayed on some opaque white with a airbrush.
 
 
 
 
The airbrush paint I am using is waterbased Createx Colours. I am no expert with an airbrush or mixing paints by any means so this stuff suits me well, no mixing required shoot straight from the bottle, no mask or horrible smells and is cured by heat ( I use the mrs's hair dryer ) . Can be masked over minutes after being cured and the colours are transparent so they fade well and build slowly giving total control.
 
 
I had no real idea for a paint scheme so went with the flow, dark colours down first.
 
 
Turns out its a rasta lure...Now is the time to mask up for stencil work or holo tape. Found this cool tape at Mitre 10 its Aluminium tape used for plumbing works great and can be polished up real shiny.
 
 
I masked the whole lure as over spray sucks, marked where the eyes are for reference and sketched out some quick lines to cut out.
 
 
 
Sat down with a razor blade and cut out the stencil designs, I must buy an exacto knife much more user friendly.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Murph Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 8:33pm
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Awesome post again, thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 8:41pm
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Before starting to paint the stencil design I made sure the tape was stuck down hard so paint hopefully won't bleed through, give the tape a rub with something round and smooth.

Here the stencil design is blacked over, tryed to add some white for "hot spots" but never really came out how I would have liked ohwell.
 
 
 
Couple of quick coats of clear and shes all done.
 
 
Now I usually finish the tail of the lure with a tail grommet but thought I would try something different. Grabbed a 1/2oz ball sinker and put in on the lathe. Lead will machine with normal wood chisels really well. Turned down the sinker and left a 4.5mm spigot to centre it on the lure.
 
 
Now I can assemble the lure, will need a belly grommet, rosco swivel, metal lip, tail weight, 1/2 " 3D eyes and wire. The lip, grommet, tail weight and eyes are stuck in using some 5min epoxy.
 
 
 
Now I can thread the wire through making sure it goes through the swivel eye and finish off with a tail wrap. I doubled back on the wrap as it look better I feel.
 
 
Heres the finished lure ready for epoxy. Finished up being 3oz. Enjoy and have a crack yourself, poppers are a great lure to start on and go from there.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote blunt hooks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 8:59pm
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I am impressed. On average how long from start to finish to make 1.You are 1 clever man.Thankyou for sharing your knowledge with us.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 10:57pm
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Hi BH, I can layout and turn a lure in 5-10mins max, allow 30mins for a finish paint job ( most of this time is cleaning the airbrush for colour changes ) Rigging a lure takes couple of minutes. Waiting for epoxy/base coats to dry takes the most time, but I have lures at all different stages so there is something to do all the time. Making a lure that swims properly takes days and days of R&D but once you know what needs to be done for that particular lure your set. Poppers are easier because of its style of action.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Capt Asparagus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 8:51am
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So is this a bibbed minnow or a popper or a stickbait? That bib looks pretty booty, will surely give the lure a helluva kick. Would it have been better to have tapered the nose a little, will not that flat face interfere with the bibbs action?
Brilliant looking lure, not criticising at all, just asking...
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 9:40am
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Originally posted by Capt Asparagus Capt Asparagus wrote:

So is this a bibbed minnow or a popper or a stickbait? That bib looks pretty booty, will surely give the lure a helluva kick. Would it have been better to have tapered the nose a little, will not that flat face interfere with the bibbs action?
Brilliant looking lure, not criticising at all, just asking...
 
Hi Capt, I would class this as a surface swimmer/stickbait. The lip won't make the lure dive like on a bibbed minnow, however it may if you really rip and make it dig on the retreive although this was not intended. The flat face and the bib are to increase the lures resistance in the water, a real straight forward and simple retreive will see the lure wobble/roll wagging the tail end of the lure on the surface. Will dress a single hook for the rear as the action of the tail wagging will make for a good action on the hook.
 
I have not yet had much luck with diving minnows as they require quite alot of tuning, but will figure it out soon. As I finish more lures I will post em up, will be casting these from shore when the kingies turn up at my local rivermouth this year. Cant wait.Wink
 
I am still trying to convice my better half that filming the lures down at the boat ramp on the water for me isn't weirdLOLLOL
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OffTheHook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 10:26pm
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Whoa real cool mate thanks for sharing Clap
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Big Jim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 6:59am
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Now that man has talent!!! Awesome sambo!!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Lethal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2010 at 12:59pm
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i think you have done a fantastic job RAL,
can i just add this, please dont take it the wrong way im just trying to help.
ive made thousands of bibed  lures and poppers in my time
your design is really radical, i do have my doubts about it being easy to retrieve though,
with the tow point being low which will make the bib come into effect and the flat head combination will create a lot of water pressure while trying to retrieve fast, if thats what your intention is,
i feel it will roll out when trying to wind at any speed, but hay its a start and you live by experimenting right?
tell you what i do like which i haven't seen for years now is a propeller in front of a lure that skips across the surface... these used to be dynamite on kings but they dont sell them anymore...


        
Thanks for everything you did for us Eric. may you rest in peace, You were one of the real legends of NZ recreational fishing
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote felixx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2010 at 6:44pm
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Tell you what man,
If you want to sell some, I would buy a couple.
Oh to have a garage setup like yours..
 
 
Originally posted by TG

LMAO felixx, you a sick puppy! hehe
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2010 at 7:05am
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Originally posted by Lethal Lethal wrote:

i think you have done a fantastic job RAL,
can i just add this, please dont take it the wrong way im just trying to help.
ive made thousands of bibed  lures and poppers in my time
your design is really radical, i do have my doubts about it being easy to retrieve though,
with the tow point being low which will make the bib come into effect and the flat head combination will create a lot of water pressure while trying to retrieve fast, if thats what your intention is,
i feel it will roll out when trying to wind at any speed, but hay its a start and you live by experimenting right?
tell you what i do like which i haven't seen for years now is a propeller in front of a lure that skips across the surface... these used to be dynamite on kings but they dont sell them anymore...


        
 
Hi Lethal,
 
The lure is called a " Danny " originally made by Danny Pichney an American lure builder... You are right and it is not intended to be retrieved quickly, it is a surface lure that has more of a struggling, flopping, helpless movement like a wounded bait fish. You can tune it by bending the eye down and the lip down to create a shallower, wider wallowing roll, skating across the surface, or bending the eye up and the lip up creates a quicker side-to-side bustling wake, head down bulging barely under the surface, pushing water in a tight vee wake...well at least thats how it should fish.LOL
 
Its all good fun thoughBig smile, Next I will try a darter from his collection.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2010 at 7:32am
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Originally posted by felixx felixx wrote:

Tell you what man,
If you want to sell some, I would buy a couple.
Oh to have a garage setup like yours..
 
 
 
Hey felixx, I will let you know when I have some that are for sale, haven't got much done lately have been distracted by actual fishingLOL
 
You don't need a whole lot of gear to make a lure, look at what Murph and Falco have done both really well made with the bare minimum of tools and they catch fish.Clap
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Lethal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2010 at 8:40am
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Awesome RAL, like a plopper of old but rolls, which is jerked at intervals as if it was on its last legs dieing on the surface, nice.
your paint jobs are truly fantastic and attention to detail is exceptional love your work RAL.     
Thanks for everything you did for us Eric. may you rest in peace, You were one of the real legends of NZ recreational fishing
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Murph Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2010 at 9:17pm
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Here's my latest efforts.....
 
 
 
 
 
I'm really happy with how the black one has worked out, not quite so pleased with the blue one, but they are all just experiments at this stage.  I'm going to have to get an air brush and learn how to use it before I can get any better finsihes than these.
 
I learnt a bit from the first ones I made as I had to stuff around a bit with ballast until I got a reasonable swimming action from them.  Consequently I have changed the shape a bit on these ones and have checked the ballast in a tub of water before painting them up so hopefully they will swim well first up.
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