floor footprint 2003 Mac360 anyone?

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Kandrew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2022 at 8:23pm
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Is it worth seeing if a plastic welder can lift the transum height and then get a new alloy engine plate made.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote e.m.p! Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2022 at 8:48pm
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Good question - I think Galloway can do it and has done in the past, but so far I haven't flooded it and never had any issues with the low transom. But on the other hand, I currently only have 35kg of motor in the back and no flooring. A 30hp adds 16kg and flooring may put another 7-8 kg on top of that? I have a hand lever bilge pump in the back and only needed it once in 45km/h winds (was pushing it). I think if i make a sharp turn after stopping I could avoid the wake and if that fails, an electric bilge pump will be cheaper than rebuilding the transom. I already learned a LOT of plastic welding getting it afloat in the first place, so this thing is a bit of a construction site anyway - I could add a bit of plastic on top of the transom to stop any water coming in. it's rated up to 25hp and there's no weight difference between an old 25 and new 30hp 2stroke.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote kitno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2022 at 8:55pm
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A water tank fitting used as a scupper will get rid of water fast. As long as you're going forward.
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Is this sitting below the waterline, and does it empty past the waterline. I’ve always wondered if that would work. It’s amazing how much water ends up inside the boat after a couple of dives, rough weather, etc.
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wow, this is a smart idea, Kitno. is that going through both hulls or ending up on the inside of the first layer of plastic only? I like that you're storing your boat in the lounge too, how did you get that past your wife?
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I copied it following Snapper Geoffs advice. Yes it empties below the water line. He has one each side but I've only installed one because the transducer is in the way. It has a bung on the inside aswell. It goes through both layers of the hull. No Emp, that hideous carpet is in front of the dart board in the garage lol.
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The left side will only empty down to the top of the keel unless I remove the keel bungs and allow it to flow through.
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Originally posted by Skoolinfish Skoolinfish wrote:

Is this sitting below the waterline, and does it empty past the waterline. I’ve always wondered if that would work. It’s amazing how much water ends up inside the boat after a couple of dives, rough weather, etc.

If going forwards it will empty regardless of water level. One can estimate the amount by calculating area of the tube*forwards speed. 

For a 50mm diameter tube going at a high displacement speed of 6 knots (308cm per second) you get 

pi*2.5^2*308=6050 cubic centimeters per second. Or about 5600 GPH.  In the real world there is a lot of friction, so actual performance is quite a bit less. This is a ballpark estimate only.  

But the same is true of bilge pumps. Lots of losses in the tubing and fittings. 

That little scupper will outperform a large bilge pump. Go faster and you drain faster as well. 

I'm putting scuppers on my boat. Two small ones (25mm internal) below the waterline, and two large ones (65mm internal) at the waterline. The hoses can be pegged up above the waterline when not needed. 

 
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Mine doesn't have the keel bungs and since it never took on a lot of water I didn't bother to put any in (this may change though after the motor upgrade). Actually, taking in half a litre of water hasn't been too bad over the last couple of years since it keeps on flushing out sand which is still logged inside the hull. The hull originally was an insurance write off, my mate salvaged it and I fixed it over winter. The gash in the pics above was a crack through the hull and it filled up with tons of sand as well as crumbling the bits of foam in the pontoons. It took me the better part of a day to flush the sand it, but still…
One upgrade i added is a small extension of the hull for the transducer to be tagged on to (pics to follow). The lip on the mac was notorious for sucking in air bubbles making the transducer a bit unreliable while skipping along. Damn, I love this thread, there are so many great ideas. Quite tempted to add the scuppers too…

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So here we go – I've measured and fiddled with it quite a bit, so if anyone is in need of the floorplan as a printable pdf, hit me up (PM). These are 18 A3 pages. DISCLAIMER: I won't take any responsibility if this isn't working on your nutshell. Heck, I don't even know if its a right fit for mine (yet).
So in sort-of-related news: I managed to get my hands on a 30hp motor. Wheeeeee!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (2) Likes(2)   Quote e.m.p! Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan 2023 at 12:06am
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just a quick update on how the cnc cut floor ended up. Quite happy with it, the swivel seats are great and finally I don't need to negotiate the benches anymore to reach the anchor. If anyone needs the files, let me know.

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That looks good. What did you treat the ply with? If epoxy you will need to get some UV protection on it.
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Thank you! I don't mind if it turns yellow over time, but if you mentioned it because it will become brittle, I'll have to find a solution. Thanks for the heads up. Will a simple Norski PU varnish suffice or do I have to bring out the pricey options?
The pedestals and boxes are treated with UV stable surfboard epoxy, the floor is done with west system. Bottom of the floor is glassed.
The boat is stored in a garage, so doesn't get too much UV- exposure. Initially I wanted to add EVA foam or carpet for flooring, but happy as is
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Even UV stable epoxy will yellow over time, and the WEST will absolutely need protection day one. I spilled some on my driveway in 2017 and it completely degraded in a couple of years. How fast depends on how much sun it gets, but it's weakening day one, even indirect sunlight will damage it over time. If you keep it in a dark garage and only use it a few times a year varnish would be sufficient. 

Four coats of varnish every year, or two coats of paint every ten years. Or varnish plus a mat that you can lift off and clean will last years. Personally I think for a fishing boat varnish is too much work for something that will just get blood on it. 

I'm using Bullyliner on the floor of my boat. Water reducible, easy to roll on and seems to be as tough as nails. I'd recommend it, but I can't speak to longevity yet. Also using POR15 as it's about the only one part polyurethane available in NZ. Then there's a lot of good marine options. 



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How's that new floor working out e.m.p!
I've recently had the draw bar extended 350mm so I can easily open the rear doors of the vehicle without them hitting the winch post. Also fitted a decent Jockey wheel.



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Post Options Post Options   Likes (3) Likes(3)   Quote e.m.p! Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2023 at 12:37pm
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works a treat, didn't end up with carpet or foam mats. The swivel seats are great for putting flippers on - turning around 180° and hopping off. Best of all the floor stiffened up the hull by a big margin, it's almost like a new boat, very smooth ride now.

I had to replace the coupling on my trailer, VTNZ said it was worn out. Drove over to get it re-wofed at another VTNZ and they said they wouldn't have noted as a fail. Now I have two.
looking good on your trailer, jockey wheel makes a big difference - just remember flipping it up before heading on the highway. Learnt a lesson there

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