"Gently forced the rod out of the 'tilt tube' "

Yeah right..
If jambed up with salt/ grease etc , take your time, do not hit out as per he has done.. Soak with CRC  or similar penetration lube.. And Slowly work it out .. even if it is soak , work it , soak.
 And dont use a round file like it he has.. use a smooth rod to drift it out..
 And clean well with a rag.. dont push the rag thru with a file.. pull thru in the same manner as cleaning a rife barrel.

Then replacing the tube, puts in at a angle.. cause engine doesnt turn far enough to just slide in.

All of the above will end up scoring the inside of steering tube... Which on the long term causes wear, build up and jamb again.

If use non branded grease, it will go hard very soon.. use brand.. eg evinrude marine , the blue , not the red (bearing grease.
 Dont use aersol grease.. again that stuff will bind up in the future..
When everything is clean.. a generous amount grease on clean rag, draw thru leaving a good even deposit on the inside of the tube. Generous amount on the shaft, and push in a little, add bit more , push in further.

The end caps, I add a couple O rings back up inside.. good dolip grease then screw the caps on.

Regular use of the grease gun on nipples around the the engine, and remove the caps, wipe old grease, turning engine back and forth,  wipe on new grease and 'refill'/ behind the O rings.
This latter part is general maintenance between servicing ..

With a stiff cable.. it is very unlikely will be the helm.. Most common reason for tight, or lot of play is wear on the inner cable liner. (usually caused by correct length cable that has a to tight a curve in it)
 Dont try and mess around with re greasing as he suggests..  steering cable are pretty much sealed units.
 And old thread on the subject...
And when you may have drained, forced , blown , crap out, forced non  grease/oils in worked it thru the cable.. chances are you will have play anyway..and need to replace.
 Re grease a cable is very false economy..money ( quality marine grease is expensive) and time.. give a good week or so to clean, drain, re grease..and even then will not be done well.

Wacking in at a angle.. scoring the inside of the tube.. few other things.. big no nos.. bit of a butcher.

Yep similar..
 Yes I know the shop.. some damn good ppl in there to... helped me out a couple times.

They damn good to use a file to bash it out,
 or have to wack the new one because it to damn lazy to move the motor so lines up and slides in freely..

 And as to re greasing cables etc.. no way would they do so..
 The labour alone would be several times more than a simple replacement..

All due respect PJ...putting how to videos up where the concept maybe along (and no more) the right lines is all well and good, but one where the persons work practices are well short of even the most primitive back yard best practices... then that asks for neg comment.

At no stage did he hammer the file though the tilt tube, he's not working on a million dollar engine and boat for all we know the owner could have wanted it done fast and cheap, he actually says at the start of the video he hasn't got the brush he normally uses for this job.

Not sure if was a file .. but he actually shows and says about wacking the tube out with 'drifter scraping up the sides of an ally tube.. think about what is happening inside, and the after affects with out reeming out...
As to not having his brush.. really? and cant be bothered to get one espec for a public video like that... Really?

steering tube roughed up like that... steering tube, that if craps out at sea under power...
I can see where this created 'accident' would go and the Marine investigation afterwards....

Would you be happy with a repair like that on your boat?..

Hell I spat tacks (thu politely pointed out to the workshop manager who responded professionally,) when checked the torques of my Axle U bolts where at 21 to 25lb rather than 65lbs by a lazy person in a very reputable workshop.

You just dont get it..
 The process is corect.. not putting the engine in a postion.. even if means taking off the transom , or using shoerter drifters to tap the arm out of the sleeve is the issue here.
On that basis I assume that you would also wack the drifter up at an angle to score the inside of the slieve?  like him?

I did my 1st sleeve around 50yrs ago.. no u tube just a shop manuel...and enough sense not to score the barrel..
And since then another 3 or 4 since

Calling me out to produce instructions how to.. well maybe if you did a forum search on how to.. then you would find I have already done so. Quite some time ago..
Also you will find an old posts I made3 on the subject of checking Doing this job, checking the inner cable sleeves, and measuring  and installing new steering.

smudge wrote: PCJ & Steps. There seems to be a pissing contest going on here spread over several topics. Let's leave it be.

amen

17' fleet line Bonacord with a 105 Chrysler on the back
1973 or 1974 I brought it off Harrison's on East tamaki rd hunter Cnr Papatoetoe for $5000 or $5200 ( cant rem which) . Was 2nd hand 2 or 3 yrs old then.

It was the same type as I replaced.. see above posts, in our Commander .. that fixed to the inside of the transom, then attached/ bolted directly to the engine tiller.