my smartwave 4200 build

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    Posted: 07 Mar 2021 at 4:35pm
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just a little thread to document my build, I didnt want to pay full dealer price for a new setup so set about buying the bits individually and waiting for deals to pop up. I purchased a hull and got a brilliant deal on the trailer from aakron. then started looking for a motor...... I was originally going to try find a decent 2nd hand one but soon realised that in this market everything is overpriced...
I got in touch with every dealer looking for their best price on a 50hp 4 stroke and ended up putting a deposit down on a new mercury. karl at South Auckland marine did me a deal I couldn't refuse and was 2k cheaper then his competitor's! result! motor should be in the country next week after a 2 month wait.
pics for thread
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote spin king Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2021 at 4:40pm
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I've started shopping for bits and pieces and so far have got a lowerence elite 7 ti2 (cheers to Josh @smart marine for the hookups), endurant battery ,hella led nav lights, hella dual usb cable port, and hella micro battery switch. still haven't bought the most important bits .... the drink holders ; ).
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote spin king Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2021 at 4:44pm
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been thinking of names for this and so far have come up with....
or





a good mate came up with "single use" haha

also should be called tight arse because all said and done I'm at 19.4k compared to dealer price of 25 odd k
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2021 at 5:13pm
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That’s a good price. Nothing wrong in saving money. I’m at $15,700 so far for my build. Second hand motor and trailer though and not done yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote spin king Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2021 at 8:45pm
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Originally posted by OneWayTraffic OneWayTraffic wrote:

That’s a good price. Nothing wrong in saving money. I’m at $15,700 so far for my build. Second hand motor and trailer though and not done yet.

**** yes! smashing it
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote spin king Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2021 at 8:49pm
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got a call from karl saying my engine had arrived so duly dripped off my boat and got to unbox my motor! ahhh that new motor smell! I have ordered hydrolic steering and nice 5 spoke 12" wheel to fit in next to the binnacle throttle on the console. should have it back by Easter just need to decide on pitch of stainless prop I think the choices are 12 ~14 will likely go 13
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Awesome little boat coming together
Top 10 finish
2024 Grunter Hunter.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote spin king Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Apr 2021 at 8:11pm
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picked it up today
will get it out on the water over the weekend for a shake down
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Good to see these project documented.. incentive and how toos  for others

just need to decide on pitch of stainless prop I think the choices are 12 ~14 will likely go 13
 Couple things here..
1/ why SS ?  its a robust hull that can be used well in shallow waters around rocks etc.. Hit something ,SS has no give (yeah do have the hub etc) and loads up gearbox, power head with sudden shocks. 
2/ When props start to deform under loads.. fast hole shot and heavy hulls at speed.. and these are larger diameter so little more prone..We are looking at around 1250kg gross water weight, getting up around the 37 mph.. and even that can only been seen from data numbers, and still insignificant in economy /performance of a general use boat..

But there is the visual bragging rights to those who thing they are in the know of a shiney prop.Wink

Also...I strongly suggest, initially  borrow a 2nd hand or a cheap prop in the ball park ..  and bottom end of the pitch range on a NEW engine so dont accidentally load it.
Get the data off that if is somewhere in the manufactures WoT rpm range.
 Always sort the slip numbers (grip/ diameter stuff) before doing the pitch.

Doing it this (correct) way saves time, effort and  significant ($100s) money
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Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

Good to see these project documented.. incentive and how toos  for others

just need to decide on pitch of stainless prop I think the choices are 12 ~14 will likely go 13
 Couple things here..
1/ why SS ?  its a robust hull that can be used well in shallow waters around rocks etc.. Hit something ,SS has no give (yeah do have the hub etc) and loads up gearbox, power head with sudden shocks. 
2/ When props start to deform under loads.. fast hole shot and heavy hulls at speed.. and these are larger diameter so little more prone..We are looking at around 1250kg gross water weight, getting up around the 37 mph.. and even that can only been seen from data numbers, and still insignificant in economy /performance of a general use boat..

But there is the visual bragging rights to those who thing they are in the know of a shiney prop.Wink

Also...I strongly suggest, initially  borrow a 2nd hand or a cheap prop in the ball park ..  and bottom end of the pitch range on a NEW engine so dont accidentally load it.
Get the data off that if is somewhere in the manufactures WoT rpm range.
 Always sort the slip numbers (grip/ diameter stuff) before doing the pitch.

Doing it this (correct) way saves time, effort and  significant ($100s) money


haha just call me a magpie! love your input and knowledge!
I have a 13 ali on it for trial and will take back data to karl for ss prop, he's looking for 5800 rpm at wide open, hull is 750kg motor 113kg I'm 83 kgs wet and fuel rods etc will be 100kg maxxx so 1050kgs normal running, add 85 odd for another person. which will be less than half the usage as I prefer solo fishing

karl did suggest that I should stick to ali in case of rocks etc however having owned many small boats over many years I've never hit one yet or grounded
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote spin king Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2021 at 2:24pm
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just starting out the electrical install.
lowerence elite ti2 flush mounted, dual usb point, micro battery switch on the outside of the centre console so I can lean over and switch from outside the boat. hella led nav lights, will be installing an nmea cable from a small hidden Bluetooth box so I don't need a headunit and can control my phone from the elite ti2 for music, however I genuinely believe that if you need music out fishing your not doing it right! so will be more for raft up partys etc
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MATTOO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2021 at 4:19pm
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Nice thread.
Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!
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Originally posted by MATTOO MATTOO wrote:

Nice thread.

Cheers !
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here's my plan for the battery on off switch
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installed eveything just need to wire it all up and mount transducer.
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here's how I store rods on small boats, tucked up and out of the way! I only micro jig soft bait and topwater fish so I'm always casting and can't stand anything sticking up in the way especially when on to a good fish in shallow water and having to move around the boat to follow the fish
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote spin king Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2021 at 12:32pm
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Originally posted by spin king spin king wrote:

Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

Good to see these project documented.. incentive and how toos  for others

just need to decide on pitch of stainless prop I think the choices are 12 ~14 will likely go 13
 Couple things here..
1/ why SS ?  its a robust hull that can be used well in shallow waters around rocks etc.. Hit something ,SS has no give (yeah do have the hub etc) and loads up gearbox, power head with sudden shocks. 
2/ When props start to deform under loads.. fast hole shot and heavy hulls at speed.. and these are larger diameter so little more prone..We are looking at around 1250kg gross water weight, getting up around the 37 mph.. and even that can only been seen from data numbers, and still insignificant in economy /performance of a general use boat..

But there is the visual bragging rights to those who thing they are in the know of a shiney prop.Wink

Also...I strongly suggest, initially  borrow a 2nd hand or a cheap prop in the ball park ..  and bottom end of the pitch range on a NEW engine so dont accidentally load it.
Get the data off that if is somewhere in the manufactures WoT rpm range.
 Always sort the slip numbers (grip/ diameter stuff) before doing the pitch.

Doing it this (correct) way saves time, effort and  significant ($100s) money


haha just call me a magpie! love your input and knowledge!
I have a 13 ali on it for trial and will take back data to karl for ss prop, he's looking for 5800 rpm at wide open, hull is 750kg motor 113kg I'm 83 kgs wet and fuel rods etc will be 100kg maxxx so 1050kgs normal running, add 85 odd for another person. which will be less than half the usage as I prefer solo fishing

karl did suggest that I should stick to ali in case of rocks etc however having owned many small boats over many years I've never hit one yet or grounded


@steps hull weight is 220kg sorry.
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anyone know of a place to weigh this? cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 2021 at 2:15pm
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Any landfill or transfer station will have a weighbridge. Small towns often do it for free, may cost you a tenner in a city. 

I like the rod holders on the side. One thing I really liked about my SW3500 was the fact I never needed to worry about sealing holes. Big difference to my current build. 

I do think that you need a way to get water out of the boat. May not be room for a bilge pump but you need something.
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Single axle trailer?
 You can change the total rpms with the prop diameter without changing the prop, which is why slip is sorted 1st as is pretty well constant between diameter.. thu more cupping , or change the rake will also do so for fine tuning.. and bow high  or low.

You can weight the total boat weight on the trailer with a tape measure and set of bathroom scales.. thu you have to be accurate with the distance measurements.
 Bit of old high school maths and physics.

Its in several older posts, and have as a note here somewhere.. just got to find it somewhere on the network here ...
Still on my desktop from the last time posted it posting as it is.

"Hmmm  single axle trailer

 Did you know you can weight the boat (only the boat)  on the trailer with bathroom scales?

 keep the engine tilt as low was possible, but high enough to just clear the ground..

 measure all weights in lbs

 measure All distances in inches

1/Put the sales under the hitch, a length timber long enough to JUST lift the hitch and take the weight on the scales...  with trailer level or slightly low at the front.

record the weight  call it   w1

2/ slide the boat back on the trailer about 12" to 20"

 measure the distance accruately and record it  d1.. the accuracy of this measurement is very critical to the end result

 d1

3/ now with hitch same height record the weight as before You may not be able to move the boat a full 20" as the balance on the trailer may put the hitch up in the air....if so just move back till just have enough weight to measure at the hitch....OR put a known weight on the bow deck.. say a 40L water container full right at the start , before taking 1st weight (W1)

OR simply move a lot of stowed gear equipment well forward.

Measure this weight    w2

4/ now measure the distance from the center  where the bit of wood its on the scales to the center of the axle.

d2

 Boat weight = d2(w1-w2)/d1

If put an extra weight on the bow of the boat, now subtract that weight.

Sounds strange.. like stuff like center gravity, weight of trailer etc... If one does the full calculation create the full equation, including these constants and gravity , center of mass and stuff....then compact the equation, all those factors cancel out and one is left with the above equation. Therefore if the constants like trailer weight... which we dont know cancel themselves out then we dont need that information in the 1st place lol






Ok yesterday tested a bungy/ nylon rope painter...
 nylon cause it has a strectch and poly doesnt.
Stop the jerk when the boat slides of the keel trailer fast, and comes to a sudden stop at the end of the painter.
 Nylon ropes where expensive

Was in Smart Marine other day and in the bin was a packet nylon painter exact length wanted....and a bundle of 6mm bungy, 3x times the length needed... thu at that stage didnt know how many length would be required.

The painter looped on the winch pedestal was about 1.5m beyond the end of the trailer...with it on the bollard, that put the boat about 1m beyond.
I looped the bungy 3 times.. each end and in the middle.. this enabled my to have 1  or 2 or 3 lengths to adjust the 'spring'...and about 1m short of the end of the trailer.
Then worked cable ties in thru the nylon rope and around the bungy cords, not tight and about every 750mm
Testing spring beside the boat in the drive, we could imagine it rolling off then springing back up 1/3 of the way on the trailer...
So attached the painter and bungies to the bollard, and to the winch post, hooked the loops up onto the bow rail.
Tide was still very low, and to get any depth would have meant dropping the trailer wheels over the end of the concrete...which meant the rear center roller was still a good 3" above the water...
 Decided to use a double length bungy.
And yeah the boat pushed off the winch stop quite easy.. no need to roll back hit the anchors.
Came to the end of the bungy  just over 3/4 down, dropped nive over the last roller, moved out from the trailer about1/2m  and came back in against the center roller nice and held there, even thu the side current turns the stern sideway.. which as turned out was good
 Un hooked the painter off the winch post, enough stretch to walk around the water , up on the pontoons , flip it over the trailer guide poles and secure the boat at the pontoons.

And still have dry feet.
 Note: the nylon painter is only there just in case a bungy loop fails .. to stop the boat floating off into someone elses

And yes realised why ppl dont let the boats down on the winch hook.. or rather, slide off with winch rope on..besides the sudden jerk at the end, stress on winch bushes etc.
 We thought it thru just before pushing the boat off...
 Its because you have to walk down to the end of the trailer to un hook it.
 Its still best to have good winch bushes, lube with none petroleum based oil/ grease, and pull out when parking up.

Now for those who want to join, put a loop in a bungy.
 you cant tie a knot, it will undo, and if not undo will slip as the strains diameter shrink under load.
 So making a loop..with a good length of tag for a hand hold
 and loosely put a cable tie around both where you want the loop to end.
 put the loop over a bollard or similar, and pull as much stretch under the area where the cable tie is , and pull up the cable tie tight as... a 2nd person.
 Check the loop size.
 If a little big repeat with the next tie about 5mm from the 1st...3 ties should do it, I use 4.
 Use tie widths slightly less than the diameter of the bungy."


Rem accurate measurements..




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