1993 Yamaha 140 overheating above 4200rpm

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    Posted: 08 Feb 2020 at 12:27am
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Bronze
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Hey

I have a 140CETO Yamaha (2 stroke) which has been overheating above 4200 rpm. Ive had it about a year and always flushed it after salt water, the first time i had the issue was in a lake. 

If i stay under 4200 ive never had a problem but over I get an alarm after a couple of mins. If i go to neutral the alarm clears in 30s, it takes 5 mins or so if i switch right off. We used an IR thermometer and the RHS head is getting about 20 degrees hotter than the left. This made me think there might be some kind of blockage inside the cooling jacket. I checked the thermostats and poppet which were all fine.

We took off the head and exhaust manifold cover and everything looked pretty good. (it had some crust but nothing was obstructed, other than some small drain holes in the exhaust manifold). We did notice that it had a lot of carbon deposit on the RHS manifold but im not sure what that would point to, maybe too rich? But would that cause overheating?


Im not too sure what to look at next, Im pretty sure its not the water pump as it seems to be only one side overheating and its been replaced reasonably recently. Also are there are any things i should look at while its apart?

Any ideas would be much appreciated




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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MacSkipper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2020 at 5:59am
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Titanium
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Before you pull apart do a compression test all cylinders - that may highlight a problem on over heating side?  Looking at pictures you probably have a buildup in cooling galleries of salt on that side of motor - strip it down and clean out as much as you can?  Talk to an experienced Yamaha shop to get some pointers (and a quote Wink)?
Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2020 at 8:33am
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Titanium
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RHS manifold but im not sure what that would point to, maybe too rich? But would that cause overheating?

 Rich an engine runs cooler.. lean is when temp rise

Hard to tell from in the pics, but does look more like poor combustion than rich (???)

I dont know if yammies have a thermostat for each side.. maybe thermostat sticking or jambed...replace them anyway

Possible head gasket.. heads should be skimmed before replacing as std procedure are removal
or as mac thinks possible salt deposit build up ?
 And a compression before stripping an engine down is always a big must... and if can do it a leak down test.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote static Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2020 at 5:10pm
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thanks for the ideas, much appreciated. I’ve given it a good clean out. Yeah I should have checked the compression first, I do have some reasonably recent numbers and I’ll test it when it’s back togeather.

I’ve swapped the thermostats so if one is bad I should see the problem on the other side at least. But i tester both in a pot and they both opened at 50c.

I’ll check the tolerances on the head before I put it back and a new gasket.

I’ll let you know how it goes when I test it but I’m thinking it’s something other than the galleries I can see
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Motorhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2020 at 5:30pm
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I think the over heating issue would likely originate from the mass flow rate of the cooling water system. When you replaced the impeller did you pull up on the drive shaft so the impeller located lower to the pump face plate?. If this is not done there is a greater chance of internal leakage or efficiency losses.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2020 at 6:03pm
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Titanium
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I have messed with non outboard engines for near on 1/2 century.. the basics are all the same..
 Motorheads suggestions are on to it,  trick of the trade, specific experience stuff...


I’ll check the tolerances on the head before I put it back and a new gasket.
 We used to do that, decades ago, and got burnt too many times.. regardless we have always skimmed a head since never had an issue 5 or 15000 miles down the line.


I’ve swapped the thermostats so if one is bad I should see the problem on the other side at least.

 According to johnson and couple other brand service/ repair manuals, new thermostats  are part of service.
As routine on a engine , be it a SB chev or a classic british whatever , a new thermostat regardless if checked out was always done... AND the new one always checked in the  electric jug and thermometer.
 One learns very early on that these little things, including water pump and oil pumps, cost a little more but end of the day one life becomes unstressful.
Or put it another way.. Murphy is you best friend, listen to his laws and avoid his consequences
 just a couple thioughts from a grumpy old man who hasnt gone grey yet Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Kevin.S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2020 at 6:16pm
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Titanium
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Sounds like reduced cooling flow.  That's exactly what my Yamaha 90 did when it got salted up.Would run all day at 4000rpm, but as soon as you went over it would overheat almost immediately.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Big -Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2020 at 10:50pm
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Poppet valves?
My honda has valves that open over a certain rpm, pressure driven, and they allow extra cooling water around the cylinders at high rpm.
My old honda had a rubber bit, that got salt under it, and IIt would clamp shut on the plastic valve and stop it opening.
you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...
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