C17 new project.

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Well according to the guy who sold the rollers....
 I wonder if he has ever done it himself, or even has a band saw.
 I have 2 bandsaws.. 1 fore fine work, the other a larger one that will go thru a 4x4 no trouble if take a little slower..
 Same with the drill press.
 And have a lathe, I ended up turning, boring out and cutting on the lathe Wink

 Do make sure you have washers each side of the rollers and behind the pins.
And you have the plastic bush inserts inside the rollers ... do not run them without the inserts..
 If the inserts have the collar on the outside, each side of the roller, and pushed for space, can drop the washers.
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The lathe did such a good job, I don't think I'll need to worry whether the bandsaw would have worked. Hard to improve on perfect. Wink Just enough room either side for stainless washers. 

Today I sprayed rust converter on all visible trailer rust, including some spots under the C sections not visible on a casual inspection. Scrubbed of flaky bits  then took it outside to wash with the high pressure hose. Probably should have done that first. Will have another go over tomorrow. I'll probably buy a tin of brush on next. 

There's a part of the c section where it's hard to get in there as there's a beam over. The steel inside there is not in as good condition. I can't get in with my wire brush. Maybe sandpaper? I'll post a photo in a minute or two. The previous owners had some Wattyl killrust paint, so I'll use that to touch up, but will probably go to spray galv when that's done. I think the galv is better protection, but the rust converter is decent all by itself. 

Also glassed the completed side panel. 200g woven. Used a squeegee to remove excess epoxy, then instead of discarding I put it in an icecream container. Was still able to mix it with microballoons and partially fill the weave when done. I'll try to dig up a photo tomorrow. 











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Titanium
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Just enough room either side for stainless washers.
 Galv is all thats needed
 Avoid stainless on boat trailers as much as possible.. Thinking , no I dont have a single stainless component on our trailer... hmm dont have on the hoise trailer or the last house trailer..

Today I sprayed rust converter on all visible trailer rust, including some spots under the C sections not visible on a casual inspection. Scrubbed of flaky bits  then took it outside to wash with the high pressure hose. Probably should have done that first. Will have another go over tomorrow. I'll probably buy a tin of brush on next.

It will be back thru the paint on galv in a yr.. or less.
Remove all rust with a sanding disk/ drill wire wheels , then apply the 'rust kill' (phosphoric acid) withing 20 mins of cleaning each section off.
POR 15 2 coats.. then a good paint on cold galv paint to 'colour match .. sorta the black POR15 patches.

And its also worth spray or paint lanocoate over, into springs hangers back hubs etc.. Solid can be dissolved up into turps and/or kero to paint or spray up inside box sections etc.
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Problem with doing that is the currently existing paint. For now I'll use what I have until it's gone, but looking ahead I am not sure if I'd need to remove all the paint down to bare metal for POR15. I can POR15 the back metre or two perhaps for a start, as the front of the trailer is still actually really good.
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Titanium
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The method .. PoOR15 is patch fixing only..
 phosphoric eats galv and stuff galv paints..
 And doesnt get where needed unless old paint is removed along with as much surface rust as possible.
If just wire brush, rust kill , paint.. the surface rust will be bubbling back thru in 6 months.

I have , over the yrs trialed , used a lot of methods, on the trailer,  long term car restos.. And from 1st hand know what works short and long term. Like most things short cuts ' easy way' just come back and bite.
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So to sum up: 
Tape off and sand back the areas that have surface rust to bare metal, then rust kill ASAP and POR15 when dried.
 With a UV protective topcoat on top if exposed to the sun: doesn't matter what really as the POR15 keeps out the rust? Then lanocoat or similar to keep water off it. 

How does POR15 compare to a two part epoxy coating? I could easily use my marine epoxy for coating the metal after rustkill and sanding. More work but not much more as I already have the epoxy on hand. 

Long term I might just get it regalved. But the sandblasting will cost as much as the galv job.   

I also plan on buying a backpack sprayer with water and Salt away for a quick treatment on every launch. 

On the boat build I glassed the full side panel on the weekend. This was a several part process. Sand the whole side, fill some gaps with fairing putty, 200g glass on top I ran this down the sides with overlaps then wet out. I filled the weave with a mix of gelled epoxy from the wetout. Next morning before full cure I went over cut out the glass at the style line with a razor and a fillet in the gap under. Also filled any left out places where the weave was still standing proud and left to cure. There will be at least two fairing passes over this. Photos to follow. 




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    First photo is of the biggest boo on the glass. Too much epoxy and pooled under lifting the glass. Being on the curve didn't help. Not a drama, partially filled already, and I'll give this and any other sticking up jaggies etc a tickle with the grinder before board sanding with 60grit. There will be another layer of microballoons on top then some commerical premixed fairing epoxy until I'm happy with it, then a roller coat of Aluminium powder and epoxy to seal, prime and paint. 


Further out shot. Looks much better from a distance. Didn't bother to do much on the bow as there will be some layers of tape over this yet. At current I'd say it's a 10 metre finish. Aiming for 1 metre or better, which means you would be standing at least that close to spot any flaws. Back view. The gap at the style line where I cut away the glass is all filled now. Some jaggies at the overlaps and edges that will get a tickle with the grinder then sanding, fairing. 
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I gotta say man... it looks like a boat! Causing me to have all sorts of unproductive thoughts about what I could achieve in the back yard.

Keep it coming, I'm really enjoying following along. The rawness of it ("this bit sucked" etc) is fascinating.
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Tape off and sand back the areas that have surface rust to bare metal, then rust kill ASAP and POR15 when dried.
 Yes.. meant to undercoat and stuff, I didnt just measured out enough POR15.. sealed the can immediately..painted, poured out what needed again..back at the start 2nd coat.

Let cure for a few days, then the cold galv paint over the top

Then lanocoat or similar to keep water off it.

 Yeah done the fisholene and few other products, lanocoate beats them all hands down.


How does POR15 compare to a two part epoxy coating? I could easily use my marine epoxy for coating the metal after rustkill and sanding. More work but not much more as I already have the epoxy on hand.

Well I havnt tried it..cant comment.. on the other hand , if was be, and had it on hand, and considering the cost of POR15...
 I would do it..
 long term if doest work.. and will for a good yr at least I recon before seeing bit surface rust come thru... another6 tms before .. "I must re do/ re galv whatever...
 Yep I would go that route..

 Couple thinner layers rather than a thick coat(s)

 And Roz s comments above... sums up real well m8
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Originally posted by Rozboon Rozboon wrote:

I gotta say man... it looks like a boat! Causing me to have all sorts of unproductive thoughts about what I could achieve in the back yard.

Keep it coming, I'm really enjoying following along. The rawness of it ("this bit sucked" etc) is fascinating.

Yea I'm getting excited just looking at it. And it's certainly an interesting project. I've followed a lot of boat builds from craftsmen to regular guys. Every single one of them has had issues, both big and small. Worse was the one in Aussie where the ply delaminated due to a rare manufacturing defect. It was already glassed in on the bottom. He junked it and started again. Manufacturer replaced the whole lot of ply. Assuming I keep on at it and keep plugging through the issues I should end up with a boat more seaworthy than any I could buy for the same price. That's the plan anyways. 


Came to a decision on the trailer. Will get it gritblasted over the back half behind the wheels and a few other places where rust has built up. Then two pack epoxy. Plenty of car restorations forums where people compare it to POR15 and other methods. Long story short: Superior for applying on a clean surface. POR15 is better for painting over existing rust. I'll go with epoxy as I already have it and are familiar with it. 

Degrease and clean, grind or sand sharp corners to a 1mm or 2mm radius then gritblast (40min drive away) then drive home, degrease again, dry with paper towels, sand again (optional), roller coat of neat epoxy, sand it into the surface  then two more coats of Aluminium filled epoxy as a barrier coat and UV filter. The Aluminium powder both hardens and further waterproofs the surface. Sanding into the surface helps bond it into the metal, and also helps remove any microscopic surface rust remaining. 

Then bedliner over areas exposed to UV and road stones etc. 

I'd like to Zinc Spray the Metal immediately after the grit blasting, but I think that would be taking a risk with respect to interfering with the strength of the bond. There are zinc filled 2 part epoxy primers, but I can't see any near me. Also expensive I'm willing to bet. Single pack epoxy paint is fine for light use, but not really for a boat trailer dipped in salt on a regular basis. 

 



accordig to WEST system I have a four hour window but ASAP is better
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If you're going to get it blasted, why not pull the trailer to bits and get it dipped? I understand it's not horrifically expensive.
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Thought of that. Estimate for blasting just the back part is $150. I understand a full blast, disassemble, and zinc dipping would be well North of $1k. Correct me if I'm wrong. 
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Do the disassemble/reassemble bit yourself, as long as you can borrow another trailer to put your trailer on top of :)

Suspect you will get a better long-term result.
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Maybe. Obviously a zinc dip is the normal way to go. Seems like overkill for what is in good condition except surface rust in a couple of areas near the back. This will cost $150 or so plus $20 in epoxy. I’d just sand and repaint except trying that upside down with paint in the eyes. No thanks.

The paint is very well adhered everywhere else. Could be they painted over the original galv. Anyway if it doesn’t work long term I’ll let it be a lesson and then get it dipped. Nothing is forever anyway with rust. Ocean going ships use epoxy paint to protect their steel so that's something at least. 
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Just got off the phone with a Chemist from Adhesive Technologies in Auckland that make WEST on licence. Reckons that although Epoxy would work well for a long period of time, even years, eventually I'd get rust in under the interface and the epoxy would lift off. Thought that just  quality Zinc spray would be the way to go. Given the current condition of the trailer, I may just grit blast the worst areas with rust, leave the areas where the paint is adhered. Then just keep ahead of it until I feel like doing the whole trailer properly. 
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Just reading through the last few posts again. It seems that for every 5 people, there's 6 ways to stop rust on a trailer. Smile

The paint on there is kind of annoying. Impossible to know what condition the steel is underneath. But a full hot dip galv will strip everything off. 

Enough on this topic. I have had enough advice. I will probably go with the easy for now, zinc patch as well as I can the few areas with rust. Keep an eye on it and use Steps Lanocoat trick to keep water off. Rinse when launching (hose or sprayer) and on retrieval. 

If it turns out this is enough great. Otherwise I'll bite the bullet and regalv at some point. Don't need to do that today, or even this year. 
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Well there was some rust underneath the top of the c section. Couldn’t get to it with paper so took it to a sandblaster today. Brief chat and the upshot is that it will be stripped completely and hot dipped Galvanized. Done once done right. No way of telling what damage is under the paint. I’ll then use zinc spray, lanocote and saltaway to keep it shiny.

Kudos to Robzoon. When’s the next reel guts coming?
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Plan for the weekend involves buying shares in a sandpaper company so I can fair and get rich. :)

Oh and I put the stripped down trailer on the transfer station weighbridge. 260kg.
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Couple of photos from the first sanding pass. Went over the chine and rubrail edges of glass with grinder and then some of the obvious air bubbles or bits of glass sticking up a few mm. Only a couple here and there. Then sanding block on the lower side panel (top of photo) for about 20 minutes. 


It really shows the high and low points. Low points are less than 1mm lower but the sandpaper can't apply pressure to them, so they stick out. Second photo is of the the curve shown earlier with the wrinkles. I took it down just until the glass was showing in a couple of places. These are the highs. I'll try to fill the lows to that level. 


No fairing to go on today, as the weather is not cooperating. I'll run over it again on the  upper side panel same business, then again next week just before fairing again so the next layer of fairing goes on a freshly prepare surface.

For preparing a surface I use a sander on the whole surface , then scotchguard abrasive cloth to get into the little dips and gaps, then a thin layer of neat epoxy over everything. The neat epoxy layer should be as thin as you can make it; the idea is to have maximum bonding potential to the surface. This helps really thick putty (which might be a little epoxy starved near the interface) bond to the surface. 

Current plan is another layer of microballoons on the side then once fully cured a layer of commercial epoxy fairing bog on that for the final finish. Then graphite pencil and a tickle with 120-180grit to see if I've missed anything. 

If all good there will be two thin roller coats of Aluminium filled epoxy on the whole side to act as a sealer below the paint finish. 
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