C17 new project.

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Cheers, I see that you followed the specified method. Did you have any issues with the hull falling out of shape? I suppose the bottom strakes would help substantially?
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No significant issues - you'll see the piece of timber and straps holding the side in position to stop them pulling in / out.
IMO - if the hull is well glassed (outside) and caution is used to turn the boat then there shouldnt be an issue.
Benefit is that you can then glass / tape the seams in full lengths
The 4 R's ~ Rods, Reels, Rifles, Rooting
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Titanium
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You cabn also brace very well with temp diagonals acrosse the gunnels and chine tio gunnels.
Before we used to pull the old wooden frames out of vintage car bodies, we would square them up and weld bracing to maintain shape. Then strip them to repare bodywork and put in new frames.

As mentioned above, if you turn or move , and its sags or moves out of shape, it will be a ***** to get back.  Thu if turned and it is braced and when measure up, find it needs a tweek, its not hard to do if think about the triangulation well before hand.

Dont even think about moving without at least the gunnels braced diagonally in several places.
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I'll tab in the frames to the sides for the flip, build a cradle to fit the hull while upside down so I know the correct shape. 

I've been wrestling with some changes in the panel shapes recently. Humidity changes swelling the wood, causing some uneveness.  The inside has a very thin coat to prevent this, but the outside is still bare. I'm hoping that I can coat it tonight, then glass tomorrow while the epoxy is still green. 


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When I started this build I told myself two things.

1. That I'd do the best job that I was capable of considering my experience at the time. 

2. That I'd post the bad and the good online, so I could get reliable advice. Brag posts are for my Facebook page. 

So I had a bit of a setback during the hull glass layup. I've layed up glass before, but never so much. 

Anyway day dawned fine and hot so I got into it. I had decided to glass one side of the boat at a time with secondary bonding along the keel. 

One layer 400g along the bottom running down the hull side. Glass isn't required all the way down the side. A second layer on top. Wet on Wet Ouch

So I started. Cut out the first layer of glass, and got it wet out in about 3 hours. It got hot, probably about 35 degrees C pushing 40 in that tunnel house. Even with WEST Slow  I had to hurry at times. 

That layer actually wet out ok. There were a few air bubbles here and there, but nothing to cry about. 

After finishing at about 2pm I  was buggered. So I went inside and took a break. I was beginning to feel the heat, which may explain why I left my bubble buster roller outside rather than in the container of acetone. Embarrassed

Anyway time for the second layer. The first layer was barely tacky by then and I was beginning to worry about getting wet on green without sanding.  

So after considering whether I should just stop at one layer for the day, I started being in "get 'er done" mode.  Mistake. Dead

The problems started almost immediately. I managed to get the glass spread out fairly smooth with a bit of wrestling. But as soon as I started wetting out, bubbles! A lot of them, mostly small buried under the glass.  I tried pushing them out with a lot of force from the squeegee, but I really needed that roller!

So anyway 7pm done, quick shower and off to a restaurant for tea. This morning I  drilled out all of the bigger bubbles, injected epoxy in those that I could, filled the weave with epoxy thickened to ketchup consistency and put a first light coat of fairing on the sides.  

But the more I look at the remaining bubbles the more it bothers me. I think that they aren't a structural issue, due to the first layer of cloth laying down well. I am worried about water getting in. 
I know now how to prevent most of this happening again: Fill the weave between layers, and apply in the pm when it's cooling down. But I have a bit of pondering to do. 

Photos to follow. 
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Photos show a couple of the worst spots but there are others. I’ve already drilled out anything bigger than a 20c coin. These are all smaller usually only a few mm across. But so many of them. I think I see some drilling and filling in my future.
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A lot of air bubbles around the bottom to transom overhang as well. I put a radius on but should have done twice as much. I got some of the glass to lay down, but not all. 

Being my own QA, I am currently thinking that I will reject that job and introduce the layup to my Saw-max diamond blade. Then a belt sander, much bigger radius on the corner and retape with some generous overlaps.

 I will mull it over a bit first, but that joint is very important; it needs the best work possible and currently that's not on it. 

One of the reasons I chose to build rather than buy is I like solving interesting problems, and I wanted a challenge. Well I have no shortage of interesting problems so far, but each step is a step closer to launch. 


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please post lots of pictures on launch day will be very satisfying!!

Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.
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Titanium
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Bubbles between the glass and the wood is not good..
 Yes A roller....
 The main cause will be laying up in temps way too hot if in the past hasnt been an issue..add to that no roller and on your own.

 The bubbles between the glass and the wood will be very prone to moisture seeping in over time the simply delaminate the lot.

 Only real fix is to get out the grinder/ heavy sanding disk, and take it all off

A lot of air bubbles around the bottom to transom overhang as well. I put a radius on but should have done twice as much. I got some of the glass to lay down, but not all.

 Air bubbles around cnrs with suitable radius is not so much a 'bubble' issue but bit a stiffness  due to glass not fully wetted out and or the resin curing a little too fast .. high temps , on your own etc.

If the radius was minimin , hot temps, on your own no roller, yes chances are that is what will happen..

 Always radius more than what you think, inside and outside radius'
Wet out areas before laying up, this helps adhesion and bubble issue...
 inside cnrs you may have to build up with filler, and if need a very tight inside cnr, wet cnr out, then lay full length chop stand rovings into the cnrs... then lay up.

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I'm buying a belt sander this week. I can borrow a grinder but I think I'd prefer the belt sander as I'll have a bit more control, and the wife will be happier if I make less mess. Grinder is a backup. I don't think I need to take off all the glass, but by the time I'm down to a surface I'm happy with it may be pretty close to all. Certainly over 90% of the second layer is suspect, so the rest of it will probably go as well. 

Lesson learned. One of the kids in my class asked me why I didn't stop. I told him that I was hot and tired and made some poor decisions. AKA I was stupid. 






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Brief update. Tried the grinder and a heavy sanding disc. I did not like it at all. The amount of dust kicked up was phenomanal. So switched tactics and bought a power planer from the Toolshed with Tungsten Carbide blades. This was a lot better. Pictured is my planer with my dust collection. The vacuum hooks into the top of the cyclone on the bucket  and sucks the dust through the side. 99% of the dust can't follow the air and gets left in the bucket. 

I'm taking it down to wood along most of the chine and keel, and removed about 95% of the bubbles on the rest. I'll touch it up over the next couple of days aiming to get all the rest of it and then move to taping the seams. 

This probably wouldn't have happened if I had had a workshop to build in, or one of those shelter logic carports. What I get for being cheap but what's done is done. 

I'm a bit concerned about glassing over it. The surface is not as fair as it once was, so there's bit of sanding and filling before I can glass again.
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Looks like good progress?!

EDIT: If it went perfectly the first time I think it would be less satisfying when it was all said and done. I've had a few projects before (none as big as this) that have required significant re-work, and while its frustrating at the time, I think it adds to the end result in a strange way.
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OWT, How have you found the Trade Tested tunnel house as far as cost, suitability and ease of use?
Would you use the same again or invest in something different?
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I actually got mine from Steelmates, bit cheaper at the time. Here’s what I think:
Pros: cheap and went up in a day. Has sat through some pretty stiff wind and is still there. I have some rocks on it to hold it down. Fairly robust for what it is.

Cons: The sides curve in, this helps the structural aspect of it but is a real pain if you are to close to the side. You will get a sore neck from bending over.
It’s 3m wide but this is at the bottom. I’ll need to move it when working on the other side.
Leaks a little when it rains through the seams. Drys up fast though when the sun comes out.
Overall you get what you pay for. Better than the Supercheap carports but a distant second to a garage. I’d buy it again but only because I have no better options.
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ahh well - it's all part of the fun - and gaining valuable experience along the way

as long as youre consistently at it, youll have it done before you realise.

i like to remember - 'never go to sea in a boat that was launched on time or on budget'
No disintegrations!
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Titanium
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You will find once u have sanded back , and with belt sander far better to 'block off' flat ..re laying will go fine.

 We all started in primitive condition once upon a time..
 My 1st car resto was on a scoria floor shed...with power from a extension lead off the house...
 M8 you are doing fine, and most of all learning a skill.. no many skills that relate to a huge number of projects .. from plastering walls on a house reno, finishing body work on a car or boat or airplane..
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Sadly I don't have a belt sander. I have a random orbital, grinder, power planer, multitool and a hand sanding board. I was planning toborrow one from school, but I am not allowed to go there with Covid19 going on. I'll do what I can with what I have. People are dying out there, so I won't complain about not having a belt sander. 

The main thing is that the glass goes down tight and strong and the planing surface is flat and smooth. There are a few places where not much glass was taken off, and others where I'm down into the first or even second ply of the core, so they will need smoothing. I spent over an hour today on the RO sander, and am happy with about 99% of the bottom. I'm sure I've missed a few bubbles, but not many and nothing bigger than 1mm. 
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The sides another story, but the side glass is not really for strength so it can stay as is for now.
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Titanium
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I have a random orbital, grinder, power planer, multitool and a hand sanding board.

Hit the majority but dont take quite all the way down with the grinder/ disc sander. So the scratch/ grooves nearly touch and do  just touch the bottom intended level occasionally
 Then again with afiner sanding disc.
 Then finish with orbital..

There are a few places where not much glass was taken off, and others where I'm down into the first or even second ply of the core,

 I dont understand why get into the ply core?  This is your guide level.. a no no to go into this
You only need to take out resin dry and poorly rolled out areas.. then feather those edges  and lay back up those patches. To get a good finish  surface just block back the high spots, a little resin/talc filling for minor low spots.

If not used to being able to run your hand over a surface and feel minor inconsistencies, lay a bit of newspaper on the surface, and move your hand along with the newspaper with your eyes closed.. Old  new apprentice trick in panel shops.


I'm sure I've missed a few bubbles, but not many and nothing bigger than 1mm.

I know you dont intend this to be the most perfect possible in the world build...
 Attitude to a build , build anything , is the critical issue...taking care of the minor details, measurments, double and triple measure , check , assume nothing, dumby fit up ..
 Generally ppl think , "havnt the time .. blah blah." type of thing
Taking that time has every panel perfect fit, every lay up go right (and if isnt, stopped and re thought very early
This then results in far less triming, finishing work , or ripping apart start again stuff...
which makes those who do work like this  seem to work quick and finish nice.. far more cleave with their hands than what seems.
 Its the attitude to everything on a build from clean tools , having good electric cable lead to get to the other side  stuff... the little stuff.

 This is not my take.. it is the take the best advice every given me consistently by craftsmen that I have met and worked with over the decades.

I remember as a kid my grandfather saying to be when he was building a small garden shed (no kitsets in those days)
"Make sure (building anything) the foundations are perfectly square level to the smallest mark on your rule. (used to be 1/32) If not when get to the top of the wall you will be 1 inch out , lok wrong out of square and nothing will fit right.."

99% of a build quality and how well/ smooth it goes is attitude




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