C17 new project.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Pierre'o Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2022 at 2:36pm
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I remember “thinking” about drilling a hole through the bottom of my boat for about a month….. not an easy decision, even if it is on the hard.

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Some more progress. Weather’s been mild and I’ve been able to glass even in the winter. First photo is of the thruhull and backing plate (9mm plywood). Second is the inspection plates at the back. Sitting on a bed of 3M4000UV and well sealed. Third is from the rear. Ubolts in epoxy filled holes and sealed with 3M. That stuff gets everywhere and makes a mess. Acetone rag sorts it. Transom tops glassed both sides and taped in. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote smudge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2022 at 7:03pm
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Nice. I think i want to see the end result more than you do OWT
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote yknot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2022 at 7:46pm
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Getting closer, will be great seeing it finished
Those that say it can't be done are being overtaken by those doing it.
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Finally with the weather warming up I got the front on. Needed to use a lot of screws thanks to a bit of compound curvature. Some went through the wood, but that will patch up as soon as the glue sets. As soon as I got it on I went inside smoothing the inside. Will finish the inside cabin with fabric used on glass boats. Easier than fairing imo. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote smudge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2022 at 8:36pm
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Keep it coming OWT!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2022 at 11:07pm
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May not look it, but I took the better part of a month to get that bit on. 
  • Cutting a square piece of ply down the diagonal
  • Taping them together, one side a weekend
  • Epoxy coating the underside and planing the rubrail for fit.
  • And finally gluing it down. 
I'll need to spend a bit of time finishing it next week. The plywood was rough cut oversize as the plan was to router it into shape. 

I've also deviated from the plans just a little for the front area, and that always becomes a time sink. Drawing and cutting from the plans is faster than templating off the boat. 

Rest of cabin is next, and the rear gunnels. Planning to install a shelf at the back for battery and gear, and also got some buoyancy foam to get in for upright flotation. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2022 at 2:40pm
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Bit of work over the school holidays. First got the gunnels cut out, underside sealed and then glued in. They are sloped outwards near the bow, then transition to flat in the cockpit so they can be sat on. I've yet to put a gunnel at the back on the motorwell frame but will, with a shelf under for storage and the battery. 



Started piecing together the front cabin and windscreen. I have finally settled on leaving it open with a canvas shade screen running from the t-top (technically a half tower on a dual console boat) forward to the bow. The windscreen's been put together from scrap ply, and it shows but once I've got it all sealed and painted with tinted perspex on top noone will be any the wiser. 




Don't have any photos of it yet, but I'm not especially happy with the length of the screws Railblaza provide with their Starports. I bought two cleatports that come with 25mm and 35mm machine screws, and two Starport HDs that come with 20mm machine screws. For the Cleatport that's 12mm left once you subtract the fitting itself and the nut, the Starport HDs only have 8mm. It might be enough for a Aluminium or glass hull, but if you plan to put a plywood backing block on at all it won't fit. Solution was to layup a glass patch (few layers of biaxial cloth) and bond it in under. Glass on top, and the bolts themselves go through overdrilled holes. Still longer bolts would be nice, without driving in to Burnsco to buy them. 


 Things left to do:
reinforce and glass in the gunnels and cabin
build the t-top cover (6mm ply and wooden supports)
build the rear shelf
glass in a seat top and motorwell bottom. 
Build a console on the driver's side.
Fair and paint
Take it out of the tunnel house and fit motor and electronics. I'll be wiring it myself, but will probably get someone to check over the motor. 

Bond on the t-top. This will be last as it won't fit in the tunnel house. 

Hoping to get that all done this spring/summer. 

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2022 at 1:28pm
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Dry fitting the stern gunnel. Used a toothpick in a drilled hold to keep it in place. Was going to glue, but the weather was packing in. You can see the glued in motor well. The lid is a bit of glassed ply cut oversize and simply screwed in place. I’ll not need to access it at all except when rigging or changing a transducer.  Hopefully a once a decade thing if that. Regular access is through a hole in the motor well frame. 

Got a lid on the starboard seat and glued a foam pad and extra frame in. This doubles as a little shelf for lures etc and a bit of flotation. There’s glass over the foam, the whole feel is like a surfboard. 

Also a look at the consoles. Going dual console with the right side being a little storage cuddy. Just a place for jackets, keys, tablets and the like.  Not much left to do now structure wise. Almost all the major pieces except the hardtop are cut, just finishing, painting and rigging to go.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote smudge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2022 at 5:27pm
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Keep those pics coming!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 2022 at 9:59am
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I said right side would be the storage, I meant left side. Port, not Starboard. 

Planing a hardtop similar to the Oceanpro 520 pontoon boat, supported on wood and Carbon beams rather than Aluminium pipe. As soon as you get custom welded Aluminium things get pricy, but plywood can be as strong and stiff if you are willing to make it a little bulkier. 

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2022 at 9:23pm
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Consoles mostly glassed in. Top goes on later. Skippers side has hatch to access electronics and the dedicated AGM battery for them. The battery will be connected to the star battery through a cable just so I can charge from the alternator on occasion.

Also glassed in the motorwell top but no photos of that.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2022 at 9:08am
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Got gunwale coaming done and the motor well interior is ready for painting. Console tops are on as well. Like an idiot I put the wrong coaming on the wrong side so the fits a little off.  Not a big deal, just a little more putty will be used. 

Got to spend a few days grinding, sanding, filling and routing before the glass goes on. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote smudge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2022 at 9:12pm
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Keep up the reports OWT
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2022 at 9:46pm
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Motorwell setup. Reluctantly decided to put the bilge pump through the motorwell top. There's two 25mm drains in the motorwell, and it's just a little pump. I didn't like the alternative of going through the transom (too close to the waterline, and the hose could siphon water into the boat.) I can mount the pump upright or on its side, but it will be elevated from the bottom, so I can wash beneath it. If I ever fit a second pump that will vent out the side well above the waterline. 

This was just a dry fit to check alignment. The main dewatering plan will be the big scuppers one can see at the bottom. They will have a trunk on them and are at the deck level. The pump will only need to deal with the water under the motorwell, below the level of the two scuppers. The motorwell can be plugged at deck level, and water drained out the sides, near the stern where I have a couple of 40mm drains. This should stop water accumulating in the boat on the trailer, a pet peeve of mine. You can see the side drains on the second photo above. 



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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote funandfunction Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2023 at 5:17pm
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I think you definitely need to mount the pump vertically. If on it's side as in the photo, the water has to be quite deep  before the pump stops sucking air and actually starts to pump which defeats the purpose. Also it should be no problem  mounting it as low as possible...... the slots around the bottom of the pump that screen any debris  will allow lots of water in for washing.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote smudge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2023 at 9:14pm
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I agree with the bilge pump. if it is mounted horizontally then it will suck air until it is completely covered and some don't like running on air. Rule pumps are the best I have used. 

I can't wait to see the end product, I just wish I had your patience and abilities OWT
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2023 at 10:52pm
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I'd wondered that as well. Easy to do, the bracket allows just about any orientation. 

The pump should not get a lot of use. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2023 at 3:33pm
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Pretty much all the glass on the boat is down now. Only fairing and paint to go. I did put glass on what I’m calling the t-top, though it’s not a centre console boat. I cut a piece of 6mm plywood 1100mm by 1800mm and rounded the corners. 

One side got carbon fibre laid in WEST 207 UV resistant epoxy. I’d supported the plywood between beams when putting the carbon on so it naturally sagged. Turn it over and it lays flat, supported at the edge, as soon as the carbon goes into tension. Underside will be a mostly clear finish with glass. I’ll put some light framing around the edges and bend it just a little to put some camber on the top. This should stop wind fluttering or buckling. 

Got to fabricate the support beams then bolt it to the boat after I get it on the trailer. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote smudge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2023 at 9:17pm
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Nice
Best gurnard fisherman in my street
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