Anchor Warp

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    Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 7:28am
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Purchased approximately 1 year ago a 50m anchor warp (from a reputable source). Yesterday this parted mid water leaving anchor and chain on the bottom. Got home and checked the rope and found it to be virtually disintegrating in my hands. A good and intellegent friend thought it may be exposure to UV from the sun. I need to replace the entire rig and would appreciate any advice on the best rope to use. (I think the last was polyproylene).
Cheers, Uffy.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Derek F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 7:47am
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I definitely like nylon best.  It sinks, not that this should matter for anchor rope. It is way easier on the hands. It does stretch which I like because it takes the tension away gently (so less likely to ripe anchor free or snap)  
And the trouble is, if you don't risk anything, you risk even more...Erica Jong
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote waynorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 8:54am
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Nylon for sure. It's dearer, but also stronger, it sinks, has more stretch, and is far less affected by UV. Polyprop is one of the worst for UV degradation.
treat fish like fish
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I have been under the impression anchor warps where nylon, not poly.
 because of the UV factor and with stretch, in chop/ swells etc it gives added spring without lifting the end of the chain as much.

The UV thing... it is only the chain thats left exposed on the deck 99.9% of the time....and what is exposed will not be the same length very often...

You sure its a UV thing?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote pjc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 12:54pm
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should end for end anchor warps every year,nylon is the answer not polypropylene

There is some cheap poly out there

THIS CRAP will break down 

Polypropylene Rope Anchor Warp Pack 12mm x 100m  ONLY $99.99

Anchor pack of nylon rope with a thimble spliced in one end. Suitable for boats up to 11m.

12mm x 100 metre

Price $199.99


Might seem exspensive at the time but whats a chain/anchor worth every couple of years??


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 3:50pm
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should end for end anchor warps every year,nylon is the answer not polypropylene

 Never thought about reversing , certainly see the pluses espec on moored type boats.

Might seem exspensive at the time but whats a chain/anchor worth every couple of years??
 
Had my warp on the trailer boat .. its over 8yrs.. some of the chain over 10yrs plus.
 And the 'extenstion' warp to anchor over 60 m is also used for scallope dredge..not that we use even 1/2 of that.


 And sure when got the 'extension' wasnt that much. Had to get it , anchor got jambed in rocks about 40m cut it free

Big danger with nylon is  never use it for towing  pulling stuff out , because it stretches and has memory it will come back at up like a whip.. poly doesnt .
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote cirrus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 4:03pm
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Do they still make anchor rope from jute,coir ,sisal etc.

maybe a centuries old option.

And the alluring nautical smell of Stockholm Tar wafting through the cabin.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MATTOO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 4:16pm
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Cirrus they do and it's still available.

But pretty pricy.

Nylon is a cheap bang for back option.

On my drum winch I used a dyneema to gain strength with reduced diameter.
Pricey option though.

And Steps.... yes UV damage because it's a very low grade warp.
Doesn't like water, warmth and 50 plus suntan lotion.
Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote krow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 9:22pm
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Where are you Uffy? Might be the odd diver around that could reclaim your anchor. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote CoastalStan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 9:52pm
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There is even various grades on nylon. I have tried a couple and now stick to the expensive stuff, from memory it’s about $7 a metre. Samson Pro-set. It doesn’t swell when wet, harden or break down. You really notice when the cheap ones swell and within 12 months they start to foul the winch. 10mm will end up 12mm and really bad at the splice. Go and see Chains,Ropes and anchors, they’ll definitely put you right.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote pjc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2019 at 11:23pm
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Originally posted by CoastalStan CoastalStan wrote:

There is even various grades on nylon. I have tried a couple and now stick to the expensive stuff, from memory it’s about $7 a metre. Samson Pro-set. It doesn’t swell when wet, harden or break down. You really notice when the cheap ones swell and within 12 months they start to foul the winch. 10mm will end up 12mm and really bad at the splice. Go and see Chains,Ropes and anchors, they’ll definitely put you right.
and Grant will do the fancy splice on to chain for free.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Uffy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2019 at 5:23am
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Thanks for the feedback everyone. It seems nylon is the way to go. I have an older style Fryan with an anchor well in the bow. I have cover to keep the leaves an rubbish out but the well is still exposed to the sun. Might also be an idea to make up a cover for the anchor well also.
Cheers all.
Uffy.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Garry 23041 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2019 at 6:11am
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I went nylon but in an 8 braid instead of 3 strand.

Negative is it takes away the stretch which is a bit of a shock absorber but it is so nice to lay in loops and stays soft as, compared to 3 strand which can get pretty stiff...

It's even more money though.

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"fancy" splicing is quite easy.. espec loops.. just under  an over.
Back splice same...biggest problem and time factor, here is only do it once every decade or so, and rem which way the crown knot goes.

What has happened to all the old basic skills kids learnt in the 50s and 60s?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote pjc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2019 at 3:22pm
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Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

"fancy" splicing is quite easy.. espec loops.. just under  an over.
Back splice same...biggest problem and time factor, here is only do it once every decade or so, and rem which way the crown knot goes.

What has happened to all the old basic skills kids learnt in the 50s and 60s?
He does so it tappers through the chain,if using a gypsy it will ride through without tearing at the rope.

It is not the old chain sitting in the crown know doing a back splice as that creates a wear point.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote waynorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2019 at 5:35pm
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Originally posted by pjc pjc wrote:

He does so it tappers through the chain,if using a gypsy it will ride through without tearing at the rope.

It is not the old chain sitting in the crown know doing a back splice as that creates a wear point.

The slimline version you might be referring to PJC is a modified longsplice, and although definitely slimmer, the disadvantage is only 2 of the 3 rope strands go through the chain link and carry the weight. The 3rd strand gets unwound & chased up the rope. Youtube has videos as always.

I prefer the chain link sitting within the crown knot - theoretically 50% stronger & more chafe resistant, as all 3 strands pass through the end chain link. Although it's definitely a thicker splice, my gypsy transitions from rope to chain OK (tapering the last couple of tucks would help), and the wear from the gypsy doesn't seem excessive. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Big -Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2019 at 9:45pm
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I'm getting fed up with the 3 strand line on my winch twisting and not falling well in the locker. I know my height is a bit minimal, but seeing a nice cone of rope up the front is getting annoying..
you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2019 at 8:12am
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Noticing that my warp is sort of getting twists as well.
 I use a capstan and its laid side to side semi coils rather in round coil.
Its just getting to the stage laying it  it doesnt lay as well. Thinking about pulling it out lay it down the drive and un twist it soon.

 Edit : there was a mention of reversing as best practice above somewhere..
 maybe just reversing would also reverse the twists.. and if does would mean it may last longer between becoming a nuance???

maybe is a reason why they should be reversed??

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote pjc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2019 at 9:11am
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Why I suggested(good practice) is on a 100m warp you use say 50m which is exposed,chaffing etc just because it looks good outside doesnt necessary mean the cores is good so why waste 50m when you can end for end it .The old yellow terylene? warps I have seen some that could be 30yrs old or more
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2019 at 11:27am
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