Stator change on an 86 Johnson 70HP outboard

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    Posted: 21 Jul 2018 at 6:11pm
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So our trusty OMC stopped charging its battery - after a bunch of checks the stator simply aint putting out any charge. 

How hard is it to swap out the stator? I have a new one on the way. The outboard is a J70tlcdc - if that helps. I'm fairly mechanical but have never carried out pulling the flywheel on an outboard

Many thanks

chappy
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 11:04am
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Not difficult as looks.
 How sure are u its the stator and not the regulator?
Both are built like brick... houses , except if you have engine running with not battery there is a damn good change you will blow the charge part of the regulator... and maybe  only the tach reads faulty.

There is a serious series of tests to make to establish which one is at fault.

Found this out the hard way... couple trips out after a full 'professional' service the young guy.. not well trained or decided to take a short cut.. buy cleaning checking battery terminals while engine warming up...
 Battery heald for 2 trips, then trim stopped working..car jumper battery held up for the rest of the day/ drifts.
 Did the usual charging checks, had a chat to the workshop.
And referenced the full factory/ repair/ service manual.
 What initially thought was stator, checked out to be the regulator..
 Voltage charge I now check before, no more than every 2nd trip out when engine check, fire up, nav lights done morning or day before.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote neil_cb125t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 11:15am
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Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

Not difficult as looks.
 How sure are u its the stator and not the regulator?
Both are built like brick... houses , except if you have engine running with not battery there is a damn good change you will blow the charge part of the regulator... and maybe  only the tach reads faulty.

There is a serious series of tests to make to establish which one is at fault.

Found this out the hard way... couple trips out after a full 'professional' service the young guy.. not well trained or decided to take a short cut.. buy cleaning checking battery terminals while engine warming up...
 Battery heald for 2 trips, then trim stopped working..car jumper battery held up for the rest of the day/ drifts.
 Did the usual charging checks, had a chat to the workshop.
And referenced the full factory/ repair/ service manual.
 What initially thought was stator, checked out to be the regulator..
 Voltage charge I now check before, no more than every 2nd trip out when engine check, fire up, nav lights done morning or day before.

yeah we ran through a bunch on checks while she was running etc - Nothing is coming out of the stator. We only noticed it as I have a voltage read out on my finder, as we were motoring she was slowly running down in voltage. Real trap for young players, there was absolutely no warnings, everything worked as it should tacho, trim etc. The stators at fault for sure, can even see some of the plasticy protection stuff melting from it.....

After some research I also found that the main cause for Stator failures are........wingnuts. Yep wingnuts on your battery can cause the connection to be intermittent which as you said is crap for stators. Boat came with them so I hadnt bothered to change the nuts.....Will be now
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote neil_cb125t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Sep 2018 at 11:10pm
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To

 keep everyone in the loop - Stator change went fine, very easy to install. Flywheel was damaged so replaced - kicked her in the guts and its charging very well.......TOOO WELL!! volts climbed to 16...16.5.....17v so I turned it off. 

Seems these motors only have a rectifier, no regulator. This era of boat/motor used the old style battery as a regulator! and electronics werent as techy as they are now. So we have ordered a fancy new reg/ret unit to replace the stock rectifier (which is working perfectly) to save the battery and electronics.

note it does also say we should not use Maintenance free batteries - we should use lead acid style, that when is over charged purges the water out....how it used to be I suppose. 

Anyway this is teh product, should limit Vs to 14.4v 

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Johnson-evinrude-Regulator-rectifier-cdi-Electronics-193-3408-583408/261932994048?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Will let people know how we get on. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote neil_cb125t Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep 2018 at 10:19am
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So after changing out our Stator for a new CDI verion we had a large overcharge. As stated about we found out the older motors sometimes use the battery as the voltage regulator - the volts were going up over 17v on idle so to save all our electronics we opted to add a CDI Regulator/rectifier being CDI part number 193-3408.

The stock rectifier here




The CDI unit installed here.

There are 2 extra wires on the CDI 193-3408 - a grey for your tacho wire and a black for earth which you just bolt under the mount for the unit. This took less than 10mins to swap out.

I have only tested it on ear muffs, but the voltage pumps up to 14.4 then stops, if you turn all your goodies on then it does the same - pumps up to 14.4 and stops. Naturally we will keep an eye on it during the first sea run at cruise RPM etc.

Great to have these new age parts to fix some old electrics. 

hope this helps anyone else who has this issue

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2018 at 3:56pm
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Titanium
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some good work there!
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