New alloy 8m boat build spec

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Grasshoppa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jun 2018 at 8:34pm
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[/QUOTE]

I think I am ok... just. My understanding is total weight on regular licence for vehicle and trailer is 6t. My truck (ranger) with fuel is just on 2t and 3.5t tow rating. Boat under 3.5t but not sure how much under. Only leaves 500kg or so for people and gear. Won’t be legal to take 4 people and all the gear but 2 people should be Ok with 300kg of gear. Take 2 vehicles and load up the other one. Will only be towing on road a few times a year. Boat will be keep by the ramp. So should be ok but may need a better tow vehicle at some stage.

What is the actual licence required to drive with total weight over 6t? And what vehicles do you guys rate to tow a big rig long distances? Cheers
[/QUOTE]

Oz writeup but am i correct in we have same regs?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MikeAqua Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2018 at 9:04am
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Originally posted by mattyroo mattyroo wrote:


It's not a straight forward answer...

On a class 2 license you can drive a truck with a GVM up to 18T, but only a GCM up to 12T. This is where you need to be careful, for a couple of reasons:

1. The license required is actually determined by the GVM, not actual load. So if your truck has a GVM of 15T and then you go and throw a 6T trailer behind it, it is very likely that you will be outside your license class, unless the GCM is less than 12T. This is why I need a class 3/5 for my truck. It's 15T GVM, which I can drive on a class 2 without a trailer, then put a trailer on behind, my GCM comes into effect and that is well above the 12T of a class 2.


Is it possible to de-rate a vehicle's GVM on the loading certificate?
(assuming you don't need the towing capacity)
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote Rob Optimist Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2018 at 9:17pm
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Great choice on Whitepointer, have had three and couldn’t imagine buying anything else.
Plenty of Whitepointer’s about and their owners only too happy to show and discuss. Enjoy.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote mattyroo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2018 at 6:39pm
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Originally posted by MikeAqua MikeAqua wrote:

Originally posted by mattyroo mattyroo wrote:


It's not a straight forward answer...

On a class 2 license you can drive a truck with a GVM up to 18T, but only a GCM up to 12T. This is where you need to be careful, for a couple of reasons:

1. The license required is actually determined by the GVM, not actual load. So if your truck has a GVM of 15T and then you go and throw a 6T trailer behind it, it is very likely that you will be outside your license class, unless the GCM is less than 12T. This is why I need a class 3/5 for my truck. It's 15T GVM, which I can drive on a class 2 without a trailer, then put a trailer on behind, my GCM comes into effect and that is well above the 12T of a class 2.


Is it possible to de-rate a vehicle's GVM on the loading certificate?
(assuming you don't need the towing capacity)

Again, not a straight-forward answer, well certainly not one that anyone at NZTA will commit to in my discussions with them. However, the NZTA documentation explicitly states:

Gross vehicle mass (GVM)

The greater of:

  • the mass specified as the GVM of a particular vehicle by the vehicle's manufacturer
  • the mass specified as the GVM of a particular vehicle (or a vehicle of its kind) by the NZTA.
Therefore, it seems even if you did de-rate the vehicles' GVM for road-user purposes, it would not be de-rated for license purposes.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2018 at 8:00pm
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Just having to replace my hubometer on the trailer due to it not working (CoF next week) and reading the notes on application form that vehicles with GVM of 3500kg are required to have a approved hubometer fitted. I would assume this means trailer too so does this then mean those whose boat trailers (boats on of course) who weighing more than 3500kg should be in CoF. I know of at least 2 WP that would be over this weight yet are to my knowledge only WoF so how do they get away with it?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Bounty Hunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2018 at 12:10am
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well i guess that's the difference between simply having rules/regs/laws, and actually going about enforcing them...
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote mattyroo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2018 at 7:00am
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Originally posted by Tzer Tzer wrote:

Just having to replace my hubometer on the trailer due to it not working (CoF next week) and reading the notes on application form that vehicles with GVM of 3500kg are required to have a approved hubometer fitted. I would assume this means trailer too so does this then mean those whose boat trailers (boats on of course) who weighing more than 3500kg should be in CoF. I know of at least 2 WP that would be over this weight yet are to my knowledge only WoF so how do they get away with it?


100%. Any trailer over 3,500kg is no longer a “light trailer” by definition, therefore is subject to COF requirements.

You can’t just take a trailer in and put it through COF either, it must be fully engineered to COF and welded by a coded welder, with, I think, an inspection during welding. All documentation must be presented when applying for the VIN number, which is required.

Edit: they only get away with it by good luck, not good management. Wait until they have an accident and their insurance company does an investigation.....
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote AK-47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 2018 at 8:33pm
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Hi guys

Has anyone got FLIR on their boat or seen in use? Thinking about adding one and could possibly do away with radar and spot light if had one. The promo videos look unreal but not sure if they are like the Big Mac in the adds compared to the actual thing!? And if you have one what is the real difference in the models. Looks like they start about 6k but quickly go.

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote viscount Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jul 2018 at 3:46am
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We have one on a large boat I work on, it is good but was expensive, it is integrated in the spotlight. Depending on what you want a good radar is good coming into bays at night as long as you have a screen big enough.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote IceBear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jul 2018 at 8:59pm
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I’ve got a couple of Simrad displays and 4G radar. I wouldn’t be without radar and, personal opinion is that FLIR is awesome but for a different use.

I go in and out of the harbour in the dark and with other boats, ferries, and fog the radar is awesome. I can see swimmers, kayaks etc and I have navigated thru tight waterways in pitch black all on radar. I don’t think you could achieve the same with a FLIR camera. I also use radar to check we aren’t moving when on anchor at night - quick glance and you know your still in the same spot.

I want a FLIR to, but my advice would be don’t forgo the radar to pay for the camera.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote JBoffshore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 2018 at 6:51am
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Flir is awesome and I use one regularly. On a small boat like what you are getting built, you will need the stabilized version due to the amount of pitching and rolling a boat like that will have. With out the stabilization, the image will be almost unwatchable and useless unless you are in a glass calm environment.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote AK-47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2018 at 7:20am
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For those interested in tow weights WP went through half a dozen or so recent 850 builds and dry weights ranged from 3.2t (outboard) - 3.6t. The heavier ones had a high spec and the heavy Volvo 300 or larger. The 800 model about 200kg or so less depending on spec. So with fuel,water, gear, fish on top can exceed 4t but

I’ve gone for the 850 with the lighter Hyundai 270 inboard and the 800 cabin size (extra 600mm on the deck compared to the 800). Dry weight should come in 3.3t and will be able tow it on road trips under 3.5t with little fuel and no water and combined weight under 6t. Usual daily use it won’t be on the road so not an issue.

Now just gotta wait 6 months for it!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote AK-47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2018 at 7:24am
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The FLIR that was going to work (stabilising version) was about $13k so flagged it. Similar cost to increase the hull length 600mm. Thinking with technology the cost of these cameras should come down over time and can always add one later. Thanks for the advice on them.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Bounty Hunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2018 at 7:58am
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what do you mean we all have to wait six months?! 

i was just starting to get a little bit excited...
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote midnightoil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2018 at 10:18am
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Having a rig thats right on 3.5 ton dry also, i now regret not fitting a fuel transfer pump to the boats tank, or at least a tank access bung so when the road trip next occurs i dont have to carry the residual tank contents, be an easy build modification well worth it.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote AK-47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2018 at 8:55pm
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Yes ive always been more focused on having lots fuel on the boat tank as weight not been an issue. But I’ve spec’d a second pipe to access the fuel tank that will have a (discrete) cap on the deck and can get a hose in there and pump surplus fuel out. My thinking was to buy/make a pump with a hose that would run from the boat tank straight to the Ute tank (holds 80 litres) and pump out the left over diesel into the Ute for road trips. Or at worst can pump it into and back out of a holding tank if misjudged the fuel and holding too much in the boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote AK-47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2019 at 9:05pm
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote AK-47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2019 at 9:07pm
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Picked the boat up last week. Very happy. Thanks to everyone who helped with the input for the build spec. Will post a few photos
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote AK-47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2019 at 9:09pm
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote AK-47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2019 at 9:10pm
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