Building a ply dinghy.

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Titanium
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Already ordered Toplac. My main concerns with the two part paints came down to smell,
 2 part..Isocyanates.. use correct breathing gear/ filters.. well should be no matter what you use.

 cost and the fact that they would highlight every imperfection off the finish

If you dont get the base blocked back very well, no matter what you use it will show imperfections ....
 This is discussed way back on blocking down...applies to plastering walls for painting, paint a car etc.

 You either NEED to block back the current coat, or use a hi build undercoat.. several coats and blocking.

It would be a VERY BIG shame, disappointment to at this stage have a bad finish on such a good job up till now...
 It is so often at this finish stage, short cuts make the difference between a very nice tradie/ craftmans job and a home rough and ready.

Do not expect a finish coat to cover imperfections.. unless say putting a bar top mirror finish on a level surface (self leveling) thats is poured on (usually a clear epoxy) thats a good 1/6" to 1/8" coat

Tagit has great experience in these products over many yrs..
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep 2017 at 12:00pm
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I hear you.

What would you recommend as a high build undercoat for Toplac?
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I was also concerned about the whole ease of use of two part paints. Maybe I shouldn't; I've been using 5:1 epoxy all this time.

At Mitre10 today to get some sandpaper (now I have 40-240 grit), stainless bolts and other bits and pieces. 

Looking at the paint section, I saw clear coat polyurethanes. Most were interior but there was a Cabots exterior marine grade. I wonder if these would cure over oil paint? They seem to be mainly for varnishing bright timber. 


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Titanium
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I hear you.
What would you recommend as a high build undercoat for Toplac?

I have been fortunate to paint/ use /paint a cars etc..anything from the old nitrocellulose 1960s ' nail polish lacquer, 1950s enamels plus, early 70s 2 pots (acrane) , acrylic lacquers of the 70s/ 80s systems.. and a little of the moden 2 pots...
One thing I do know in all these cases, dont mess with them.. from undercoats up stick to the manufactures systems start to finish

Come to boats, the paint  systems you are using, I have refrained from commenting because I do not know and have nil to near nil experience. But prep, blocking etc is still common.

As to what grit/ wet dry paper.. yes block sand wet.. I have posted previously on that stuff how to etc.

Have a chat to Tagit on what paints systems to use

 Stainless fitting from miter 10/ bunnings clearance centers, just be careful what and where going to use...the grade both  the ability to non stain and strength may not be up to expectations for use... and is often represented in price.
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316 stainless machine screws with nylock nuts. Not very cheap. Have had good luck with these before on my old smartwave. I bought most of the other bits and pieces from marine deals.

International have a precote for Toplac but marine deals do not stock it. Burnsco do but is a separate trip in. I will ask around if no one here pitches in. Since I am painting over fresh sanded epoxy I am not sure if undercoat is even required.



Photo of this weekend progress. Not much to look at. Glued on cleats for the seat Tops, last frame filleted in and checked the seats by dry fitting. Used left over glue thinned with epoxy and colored with 420 to cover the two front frames. One other advantage of the 420 is that I can see where I have been and that the wood is well encapsulated.
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Looking good!
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Titanium
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Yes it does.
Question thu, been on my mind for a while.. is it actually a dingy, or what we used to call a 'punt' ??
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Punghy?
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According to my Googling, a dinghy is defined as a small open boat. A punt is a long narrow flat bottom dinghy. This would best be defined as a pram dinghy in my opinion. The pram nose effectively gives volume without length. 






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Titanium
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This would best be defined as a pram dinghy in my opinion

 Thats the word what I was trying to rem from childhood days
 Its just missing the seagull on the back to finish off.
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Current state of progress:

I have glued on and glassed over the tops of the seats. Used bits of scrap cloth on the middle seat so it looks a bit rough. I'll block it black and fair it out a little before paint.
After some consideration I left the rear compartment empty. It is well sealed, every seam has a fillet and fibreglass over it. At some stage I may drill a small ventilation hold and plug it, or install a sealed hatch. 

I have taped over the rubrail with 400g biaxial tape. I went over with a round off router bit to give a curve for the tape to follow. With the tape, most of the inside surfaces have glass over them. The only unglassed places in the whole boat are the underside of seats, and the middle parts of the sides, between the seam and rubrail tape. 

I glued on a backing block for the 2.5hp Mercury (Tohatsu) 2 stroke outboard. The transom at 9mm is strong enough as is, but I wanted the extra width. I will put some biaxial tape where the clamps bite next week.

I have ordered some West system 410 microlight for fairing.

Still to do:

Glue on small breast hooks (for railblaza rod holders) and oarlock holders

Block back and fair over some of the inside transitions.

Another sand and then fair over the exterior sides.

Roller coat of epoxy to seal.

Coat of International Precote and sand (I have 300 grit for this.)

Coat of International Toplac, and possibly sand?

Second coat of Toplac

Install the dinghy wheels (this is last so I can paint under the brackets, I will not be able to go over again once they are on there.

Splash. 









 
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Had a few issues yesterday putting on the dinghy wheels.

I had glued on ply brackets but to my chagrin discovered that there was not enough room behind to hold the nut with the spanner I had.

So after a bit of pondering I took out the saw and cut them out. Then I drilled holes for the bolts except I had already glued on the rear seat so no way to tighten them up. I set the two lower bolts in epoxy using a wooden jig to check the location. Once they had set up to the point they would hold the bracket I put the wheels on. Except they wouldn't fit! I had drilled the holes a little to high and the wheels were rubbing. So I drilled higher holes in the bracket.

At least it's done now. Took about three times longer than it should have. I'm a little concerned about water getting into the bottom compartment even though the bolts should be sealed so at some stage I'm going to put a hatch in the seat.

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Looking good!
Best gurnard fisherman in my street
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Took off the wheels so I could fair the transom. One of the bolts came off (epoxy had glued it to the bracket.) the others are solid. Still a little concerned about longevity banging over rocks etc so I'll double the ply there with the pieces of 9mm I had glued to the transom sitting up against the holes. That should give twice the bonding area. Photo of the hole. The top holes are overdrilled and putty filled. No path for water to get to the wood.
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Looking good, those wheels are great.  How long till you are finished ?
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Nice,
Those that say it can't be done are being overtaken by those doing it.
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May never be done.

I would be finished already if I had taken less options. As it is I need to fair it off, I will install that hatch in the back seat and get those wheels on again. Then paint and rodholders etc.

Got a holiday coming up so should be close in a couple of weeks.

Sometimes the fiddling around takes longer than building the hull. For example if I had bolted those wheels on through the back I would have saved hours of mucking around.
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Onewaytraffic, you are learning some important lessons about boat building.
1. When can you say the job is done? Never is.....
2. Compromise is something you need to get used to.
3. You are the boss - never forget that.
4. Most problems are the result of 'if only' situations earlier in the work.
5. There is a time to get stuck in and go fishing!
6. Measure twice and cut once...
Great job, and special thankyou for sharing it with us.

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7. Nothing can't be fixed by sufficient amounts of time, money, sweat and epoxy/fibreglass!

When I cut the back seat open to put in the hatch, I may even drill out those stuck in bolts, plug the whole lot and reinstall with standard through bolts. Will have a look when I get inside. 

I was in a bit of a hurry yesterday as a trip to Twizel is planned for tomorrow and I was hoping to splash the boat (even unpainted). As it is I have decided to leave it at home and get it done right.




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