kitno wrote: Would small gauge "I beam" work? Very strong and easy to wash. |
Fishy11 wrote:
Seen a few done out of I beam, or H beam, you can make anything strong enough if you try hard enough like the C section trailer/s mentioned, but looking at weight vs strength for a boat trailer the box section is generally going to be stronger overall for the same weight, material & wall thickness especially when you start talking torsional strength. Not that I beam & H beam can't be incredibly strong when used correctly in a design(used for buildings of course) can take insane loads say verticle or horizontal but will be a big differerence between strength each way depending on what way the I/H beam is used. 'True' box section on the other hand will be equally strong all 4 sides/directions of loading. Seems like trying to fix something that isn't broke, if you look after your trailer correctly you shouldn't have issues. ( i don't mean 'you' specifically Kitno when i say that by the way). I'm also no expert, but is reasonably basic knowledge and basic physics. |
MacSkipper wrote: What I have read here and other posts and heard from shops - the problem is the amount of galvanising applied (thickness) has been cut back to save $ - the box section idea has been around for ages and worked - this is why aluminium is being tried and that's why so many 70s trailers are still around. I have found the newer galvanised trailers look nice but seem to rust out pretty quick (say 10 yrs) despite washing and treating with lanocote or similar. I think we all need to be asking what thickness of galvanising applied? and be pressuring trailer manufacturers to add more - I imagine the actual increase in cost would not be that much but would last a lot longer? |
Steps wrote: The galv on the old trailers.. mine included looks very different in the crystal structure of modern hot dip galv trailers. I have researched, talked to a lot of ppl about this but nothing really seems to fit the difference. Some say it is the thickness, others the prep, others recon electric charge method.... Which the latter crystal structure sort of matches....but apparently this method has less thickness. The old trailers dont tend to have 'drips'/ dags nor seem to show any remains of them where may have been knocked off. If on drops a little phosphoric acid (cleaning brown off glass hull or anti rust soln) the drop sort of reacts different on the old galv and even old modern hot dripped. So what the hell is the ACTUAL difference between modern hot dipped and the old trailers? |
mattyroo wrote: I'm thinking to mount a irrigation hose with plenty of nozzles, that will wash the trailer down, run it along inside the chassis and do a loop at the brakes to flood them and the suspension. This will mainly be used for when the boat is on the trailer, as it is a b!tch to get at the brakes when on the trailer. Any thoughts appreciated. |
Steps wrote: I put garden irrigation hose inside the box section of mine.. Was not happy with the result. To work well the direction the hose holes are laid so squirt the inside walls rather than hit the bottom side and just run out along the bottom , did not clean the walls or the inside bottom side of the box section well at all. Could not get the irrigation hose to lay well and reliably. The other issue stared to notice was the water under the hose area did not dry out well. |
Titahi wrote: I plumbed some lawn pop up sprinkler heads into the concrete pad the boat lives on, boat gets backed into its usual spot, turn em on and they sprinkle away whilst cleaning and unloading the boat.......... proved very effective to dat e |
Steps wrote: Flush directly after launching...on a busy morning at the ramp? |
Titahi wrote: I plumbed some lawn pop up sprinkler heads into the concrete pad the boat lives on, boat gets backed into its usual spot, turn em on and they sprinkle away whilst cleaning and unloading the boat.......... proved very effective to date |
Steps wrote: ...GT 18 detergent... |
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