Bilge pump set-up help

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Pcj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2022 at 1:35am
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Titanium
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same about 1/2 way, test by filling up bilge and pumped out ok.only 1 metre from pump to outlet
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Big -Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2022 at 7:26am
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Titanium
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I would only do this on an auto pump, as if you get a bit of crud under the non return valve, it is rendered useless.and with a manually switched pump, you wouldn't notice your bilge filling up.
Also, it is a valid point that bilge pumps develop very little pressure, it might struggle to overcome a head of water above the valve when combined with the spring pressure.
What about a little rubber flap over the outlet?
Or could the bilge pump delivery pipe be routed higher than the outlet before dropping to the outlet, this would minimise any waterline induced back flow.
Any restriction in that pipe is a potential blockage, and will reduce pump performance.
you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Pcj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 2022 at 8:48am
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Titanium
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https://www.burnsco.co.nz/boating/plumbing/fittings-valves/plumbing-valves/trudesign-non-return-valve

fitted 19mm and filled bilge and no issues. Yes I thought the same re head and pressure,can get them with a ball in them,had one in the yacht no issue,my rise is only about 500mm pump is good for 1200 head so it says
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote krow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep 2022 at 7:17pm
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Titanium
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I would fill up the head above the valve and retest. Note though the valve can "stick" a bit. I find all good for the day once started.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Big -Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2022 at 6:02am
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Titanium
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1200 is probably the gallons per hour rate.
So long as you have tested, no problem...
you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 2022 at 10:20pm
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All this reminds me of the circles I went in with my build. Seal up everything, fill with foam or leave holes for inspection, knowing water might get in?

In the end I went with enough foam to float the boat no matter what and limbers with inspection/ventilation holes. I have tucked all the inspection openings away from where most water will get in, and all the openings are in places where water would not usually sit. 

If that boat was mine I'd reseal the bungs and be done with it. Remove bungs, look for any evidence of wet wood, dry well and reinstall and reseal. I'd epoxy the bung hole and screw holes as well. 

If I had any doubts about water getting in unseen I'd cut out an inspection hole in the sole near the back, seal the edges with epoxy and put in an inspection port. This could be as simple as a clear perspex square screwed into place and sealed with marine gasket sealant. Removal may not ever be required, but you will have peace of mind. 

I'd not muck around with pumps in that space. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Pcj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2023 at 7:05am
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Titanium
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It appears "Big Dave" correct. Yesterday with he chop filling up outboard well and water flowing through cable hole filling up bilge. Heard pump kick in and run for sometime,upon investigation found ball stuck in one way valve due to crude,removed mechanism and water pumped out, So now thinking to install a on/off tap.

Just because of location of outlet being low want to stop water flowing in.Yes maybe a inconvenience butwhat else can one do??  
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