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Etec 60hp

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Bigfishbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 1:35pm
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The re-programming is simply a switch that is turned off or on when the laptop is connected. Etecs are usually programmed for XD100, they run on 91 gas.
www.waikatosportfishing.co.nz
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote bricker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 6:14pm
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Thanks for the great feedback and advice. Good reading with OneWayTraffic's link to the 10 year performance report Thumbs Up

Got a message back re. my ETEC after posting the serial number on the owners forum.......a clean bill of health but good advice on getting the injectors cleaned as it's been a wee while since it was last used - about 7 years!!

Just need a quiet spell to give it a run - once again, a big thank you to the Forum :)


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Catchelot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 8:07pm
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Originally posted by OneWayTraffic OneWayTraffic wrote:

I've googled these. A lot. EMM failures can happen on any brand outboard and will leave you dead in the water. Most common causes of EMM failures are voltage spikes, heating issues, faulty parts/sensors stressing the EMM. 

  • Check that WOT RPM are within specs. No motor will tolerate lugging long term.
  • Ensure that the battery is connected with a clean tight connection. No wingnuts, use nylock nuts or lock washers with regular nuts. 
  • The above goes for all boat wiring. Clean/replace any corroded connectors and ensure that the battery is big enough and in good condition. A battery in good order can absorb any voltage transients before they do damage.
  • Do not connect/disconnect an AC charger, or any jumpstarter cables with the engine connected to the circuit. This can cause issues.  
  • Get a quality fuel water seperator installed and check it regularly. Many injector issues can be traced directly to water in the fuel sitting inside the motor and rusting it out. I'm sure many people have blown up motors and blamed BRP when the fault lies closer to home.
  • When you fill up the oil tank no need to fill it to the top. About 2/3 fill will allow space for expansion etc. Some older tanks developed pinhole leaks. 
  • Flush the motor with the engine running and allow time for the thermostat to open. You want to get water to all parts, especially the EMM. 
  • The XD100 is probably worth it over the XD50. 
  • You could consider adding a small amount of oil into the tote. This is a bit controversial but here goes: Early E-tecs had oil injection into the fuel just prior to the lift pump. This was discontinued in 2008 possibly due to the EPA. A 200:1 mix may add extra protection to those components. Some well dealers did this and noticed that they needed to replace fewer pumps.
  • Make sure you have a competent guy working on your engine.
  • The etec owners forum is a mine of information. Post your model and serial there and they will be able to find if there has been any work done on your engine and what.
  • All e-tecs can be pull started. Might be worth learning how.
Depending where you go fishing I  would consider having a small auxillary on the boat for emergency use. This goes for any modern outboard. They work brilliantly, until they don't.

Disclaimer: All of the above is Internet only. I do not own an e-tec but am considering one for my next boat as in the smaller sizes they pull like nothing else. So having some spare time I have done a lot of reading. This is what I found.

ClapClapClap Post of the year, very well done OWT, I shall send this to my fishing buddy, 2006 I think ETEC 90, one injector failure, gasket around exhaust causing overheating and alarming if driven over 3200 rpm, over propped in my opinion, only does 4700 RPM WOT, but owner rarely goes over 4000rpm...

"The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever." - Jacques Cousteau
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 8:12pm
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Cheers Catchlot. That’s actually pretty good for a 12 year old motor. Agree with it being overpropped.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote SpearPoint Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Apr 2018 at 10:53am
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We've owned two Etec's, a 90hp and a 225HO, both have been awesome engines and for a ski boat, I wouldn't have anything else.

"If I owned one, I would remove and grease the prop yearly, remove and grease all bolts one at a time, check/replace the gear oil yearly, check/change the fuel filter yearly and so on. Four strokes need all that and oil, values, cambelt when they fall due and so on."

This post by OneWayTraffic is excellent as it details the maintenance I do myself at the start of every summer. Every 3yrs/300hrs we get them serviced properly but things like filters and fuel lines can go to crap in that amount of time and are easy to keep an eye on and do yourself.

The only thing I would add is to run an overspec'd battery and keep it charged. The Etec's require a pretty big battery anyway and OneWayTraffic is spot on when he says a battery in good order can absorb any voltage transients before they do damage. The advice from our mechanic was a lot of EMMs that failed early on due to voltage issues and underspec'd batteries.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote bricker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Apr 2018 at 8:57am
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Thanks SpearPoint - great info.

As to potential battery issues, what are people's thoughts on running dual batteries. I will be running a fish finder and also use an iPad as a chart plotter/navigational tool so might need to add an extra one as I'm looking to add a jack plug for phone charging, etc. 

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote rowboat bob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 3:23pm
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Hi Bricker I was advised against it by my marine electrician ( first Electrical in Silverdade). They reckoned a quality marine battery with say 680cca was the way to go. With the twin batteries one can drain the other or something , said people were not going that way any more. Big launches are probably a different story.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 4:57pm
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From memory, according to the OMC Install/service / repair manual the 150 V6 is only somethiong like a 530 cca.
 And yeah twin batteries .. start and house for something with a 60 hp.. even a 150 hp is over kill.
  Even with old type filament higher current nav/ anchor lights, a cabin 2x furo light, run gps /anchor over night, and stand stereo doesnt exactly pull a lot of current...
Std sounder transducer about 1 amp.
 And these days with LED lighting...

And we are talking a little boat with 60hp????
680cca ???
 huge diff in price.. and profit.
I do ask how can a professional service, off the top of their head be able to estimate requirements with out checking current draws of all items.. KNOW the alternator out put and KNOW the manufactures min spec battery spec for a particular engine?
 Sounds more like a wild guess then add a heap on so cant under guess... than a estimate.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote rowboat bob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 5:28pm
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Hi Steps , no the 680cca was on my boat,  115 four stroke , anchor winch etc. yes probably quite a bit smaller required on a 60ph , my point was that I was told that twin batteries were not required due to better batteries,  better charging systems on the motors and lower current draw from modern electrics.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 5:43pm
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k understood..
Out of interest I run a 530cca on a high compression (220+lbs) low duration cam, old school Chevy v8 350 ci sb muscle car, old school filiment lights , old school,  single wire low rpms alternator, heater fans, wipers etc. 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote bricker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 10:11pm
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Thank you Gentlemen......I'll stick with the one quality battery I have :)
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote SpearPoint Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2018 at 9:49am
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Hey Bricker, for your engine you need a 640cca battery, which is big for a 60hp engine but that's what it's spec'd to so I wouldn't run less than that.

You can find the owners manual for your specific engine here http://www.operatorsguides.brp.com


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MikeAqua Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2018 at 9:53am
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The risk with a single battery set up is you can get transient voltage spikes following start up that can damage electronics - fishfinder, VHF, LED lighting etc etc.

It's rare but it does happen.  It happened to me and cost me a fishfinder.  I have a house battery now.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote bricker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2018 at 10:05pm
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Thanks Mike......my concern is also to avoid the voltage spikes that seem to have fried a few of the Etec EMMs (according to posts on this and other forums). 

Mind you - they do say a little information can be a dangerous thing lol!! Might be reading too much into this!!

I'll ensure the battery is a 640 CCA asa minimum and go from there.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MikeAqua Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 2018 at 7:44am
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Originally posted by bricker bricker wrote:

Thanks Mike......my concern is also to avoid the voltage spikes that seem to have fried a few of the Etec EMMs (according to posts on this and other forums). 


It's very important for the outboard to have good connections at the battery terminals.  Your outboard manual will probably cover this. 

If it was me I would buy a battery with threaded posts on the terminals and use stainless nuts with spring washers.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote SpearPoint Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 2018 at 9:29am
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If it was me I would buy a battery with threaded posts on the terminals and use stainless nuts with spring washers.

And cover the terminals in dielectric grease as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote bricker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr 2018 at 7:37am
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Good advice and already implemented!!!

Took said outboard out for a run yesterday - even managed to provide dinner!! Have one query as a result. Whilst puttering at maybe a quarter throttle, telltale was quite reduced and smoke coming from exhaust....it was enough to be noticeable. It disappeared once we got back to cruising speed but it appeared to me that just maybe the outboard leg is not quite deep enough at a certain speed?? Might be barking up a completely wrong tree but is there a measurement to check leg depth vs. transom, etc. ??
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MikeAqua Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr 2018 at 8:58am
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Leg depth should be set for planing speed. 

The cavitation plate should be skimming the surface of the water.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr 2018 at 10:09am
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cavition plate should be in the water with only a few drops running down the top surface of it at you normal boat loading and  fast cruise speed.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote strx7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr 2018 at 1:30pm
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are you sure its smoke and not just exhuast?   at low speed they do put most of the exhaust through the low speed relief valve, this is very obviously when the ambient air temp is a bit cool.

we've had a 60hp etec on dads boat since January 2006. its done 360hrs has had nothing major go wrong with it.   its really good on gas.  general wear and tear things that has needed to be replaced have been pretty reasonable price too.  I have complete faith in it and have no reason not too

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