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Etec 60hp
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The re-programming is simply a switch that is turned off or on when the laptop is connected. Etecs are usually programmed for XD100, they run on 91 gas.
www.waikatosportfishing.co.nz
Thanks for the great feedback and advice. Good reading with OneWayTraffic's link to the 10 year performance report 
Got a message back re. my ETEC after posting the serial number on the owners forum.......a clean bill of health but good advice on getting the injectors cleaned as it's been a wee while since it was last used - about 7 years!!
Just need a quiet spell to give it a run - once again, a big thank you to the Forum :)
 OneWayTraffic wrote:I've googled these. A lot. EMM failures can happen on any brand outboard and will leave you dead in the water. Most common causes of EMM failures are voltage spikes, heating issues, faulty parts/sensors stressing the EMM.
Depending where you go fishing I would consider having a small auxillary on the boat for emergency use. This goes for any modern outboard. They work brilliantly, until they don't. Disclaimer: All of the above is Internet only. I do not own an e-tec but am considering one for my next boat as in the smaller sizes they pull like nothing else. So having some spare time I have done a lot of reading. This is what I found.
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Post of the year, very well done OWT, I shall send this to my fishing buddy, 2006 I think ETEC 90, one injector failure, gasket around exhaust causing overheating and alarming if driven over 3200 rpm, over propped in my opinion, only does 4700 RPM WOT, but owner rarely goes over 4000rpm...
"The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever." - Jacques Cousteau
Cheers Catchlot. That’s actually pretty good for a 12 year old motor. Agree with it being overpropped.
We've owned two Etec's, a 90hp and a 225HO, both have been awesome engines and for a ski boat, I wouldn't have anything else.
"If I owned one, I would remove and grease the prop yearly, remove and grease all bolts one at a time, check/replace the gear oil yearly, check/change the fuel filter yearly and so on. Four strokes need all that and oil, values, cambelt when they fall due and so on."
This post by OneWayTraffic is excellent as it details the maintenance I do myself at the start of every summer. Every 3yrs/300hrs we get them serviced properly but things like filters and fuel lines can go to crap in that amount of time and are easy to keep an eye on and do yourself.
The only thing I would add is to run an overspec'd battery and keep it charged. The Etec's require a pretty big battery anyway and OneWayTraffic is spot on when he says a battery in good order can absorb any voltage transients before they do damage. The advice from our mechanic was a lot of EMMs that failed early on due to voltage issues and underspec'd batteries.
Thanks SpearPoint - great info.
As to potential battery issues, what are people's thoughts on running dual batteries. I will be running a fish finder and also use an iPad as a chart plotter/navigational tool so might need to add an extra one as I'm looking to add a jack plug for phone charging, etc.
Hi Bricker I was advised against it by my marine electrician ( first Electrical in Silverdade). They reckoned a quality marine battery with say 680cca was the way to go. With the twin batteries one can drain the other or something , said people were not going that way any more. Big launches are probably a different story.
From memory, according to the OMC Install/service / repair manual the 150 V6 is only somethiong like a 530 cca.
And yeah twin batteries .. start and house for something with a 60 hp.. even a 150 hp is over kill.
Even with old type filament higher current nav/ anchor lights, a cabin 2x furo light, run gps /anchor over night, and stand stereo doesnt exactly pull a lot of current...
Std sounder transducer about 1 amp.
And these days with LED lighting...
And we are talking a little boat with 60hp????
680cca ???
huge diff in price.. and profit.
I do ask how can a professional service, off the top of their head be able to estimate requirements with out checking current draws of all items.. KNOW the alternator out put and KNOW the manufactures min spec battery spec for a particular engine?
Sounds more like a wild guess then add a heap on so cant under guess... than a estimate.
Hi Steps , no the 680cca was on my boat, 115 four stroke , anchor winch etc. yes probably quite a bit smaller required on a 60ph , my point was that I was told that twin batteries were not required due to better batteries, better charging systems on the motors and lower current draw from modern electrics.
k understood..
Out of interest I run a 530cca on a high compression (220+lbs) low duration cam, old school Chevy v8 350 ci sb muscle car, old school filiment lights , old school, single wire low rpms alternator, heater fans, wipers etc.
Thank you Gentlemen......I'll stick with the one quality battery I have :)
Hey Bricker, for your engine you need a 640cca battery, which is big for a 60hp engine but that's what it's spec'd to so I wouldn't run less than that.
You can find the owners manual for your specific engine here http://www.operatorsguides.brp.com
The risk with a single battery set up is you can get transient voltage spikes following start up that can damage electronics - fishfinder, VHF, LED lighting etc etc.
It's rare but it does happen. It happened to me and cost me a fishfinder. I have a house battery now.
It's rare but it does happen. It happened to me and cost me a fishfinder. I have a house battery now.
Thanks Mike......my concern is also to avoid the voltage spikes that seem to have fried a few of the Etec EMMs (according to posts on this and other forums).
Mind you - they do say a little information can be a dangerous thing lol!! Might be reading too much into this!!
I'll ensure the battery is a 640 CCA asa minimum and go from there.
| bricker wrote: Thanks Mike......my concern is also to avoid the voltage spikes that seem to have fried a few of the Etec EMMs (according to posts on this and other forums). |
It's very important for the outboard to have good connections at the battery terminals. Your outboard manual will probably cover this.
If it was me I would buy a battery with threaded posts on the terminals and use stainless nuts with spring washers.
If it was me I would buy a battery with threaded posts on the terminals and use stainless nuts with spring washers.
And cover the terminals in dielectric grease as well.
Good advice and already implemented!!!
Took said outboard out for a run yesterday - even managed to provide dinner!! Have one query as a result. Whilst puttering at maybe a quarter throttle, telltale was quite reduced and smoke coming from exhaust....it was enough to be noticeable. It disappeared once we got back to cruising speed but it appeared to me that just maybe the outboard leg is not quite deep enough at a certain speed?? Might be barking up a completely wrong tree but is there a measurement to check leg depth vs. transom, etc. ??
Leg depth should be set for planing speed.
The cavitation plate should be skimming the surface of the water.
The cavitation plate should be skimming the surface of the water.
cavition plate should be in the water with only a few drops running down the top surface of it at you normal boat loading and fast cruise speed.
are you sure its smoke and not just exhuast? at low speed they do put most of the exhaust through the low speed relief valve, this is very obviously when the ambient air temp is a bit cool.
we've had a 60hp etec on dads boat since January 2006. its done 360hrs has had nothing major go wrong with it. its really good on gas. general wear and tear things that has needed to be replaced have been pretty reasonable price too. I have complete faith in it and have no reason not too
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