DIY Jigs

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote JOLLY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2011 at 9:15pm
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Would you pour them vertical, horizontal, or a slight incline? My gut feel is the latter. I assume that it would have a significant impact on the finished casting. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote treedoc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 2011 at 7:32pm
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I just pour em straight up and down. Finish is most affected by water, make sure your mold is bone dry, and a release agent (I smoke the mold by holding a candle under each side, carbon is a good release agent).
How are you getting on, had a crack at a mold yet?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Standard Deluxe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2011 at 12:15pm
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Why not just use stainless bar?  Comes in round or rectangular cross section.  Easy enough to grind into shape, drill etc although your not likely to get the full range of shape you would from pouring into a mould.  Cheap and easy to get your hands on.
 
I had a look at them last year but not enough time to make them.  I looked at using the jig as a simple black and snap on flies for colour.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Dohboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2011 at 2:34pm
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Best i come over on the weekend for a beer and we try this out KaneBeer
www.acewash.co.nz
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote JOLLY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar 2011 at 10:59pm
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Going to a wedding this weekend Dean - a beach wedding - as long as it isn't a wash out. Guzzling your home brew is always appealing though. You back on it? lost that spare tyre already?

Yep, made eight last night, 4 OK, 4 not as good. Poured them fairly flat and the lead didn't make it to the last 15-20mm, tried up to a 30° incline and it was no better. Put a couple of breather cuts in one half to see if that helped. The finish was OK. I'll give it a nudge vertically next time or modify this mold. I don't get much Internet access during the week Treedoc- useful access anyway, none of this sort of inappropriate material.

I used fibre bog for the first half, had a night mare using that to mold with that so I used normal bog for the top half. Using fibre bog for detailed stuff is like trying to heard cats into a corner. Going to persevere with the fibre stuff though, cracks in the non fibre bog half already. I used the normal bog as a fairing coat on the fibre bog imperfections - sweat asThumbs Up. Fibre bog feels so much stronger. Wire showed through on a couple – can fix that with a better wire jig.  Forgot to counter sink keys so I put a couple of bolts through for alignment. Pretty stoked but, for a first effort anyway. Too easy – sort of. The mold could be better, the next one will be. Smoked the mold with a big old candle, worked a treat with no hang ups.

Prepared the tyre weights by making ingots - cleaning the crap and slag off. Made ingots out of stick-on tyre weights and compared them with the clip on ones. The clip on ones were harder than the stick on. The lead had a sharper tone when you tap it – indicating it was harder. Looked different too - crystallised appearance . Haven't given battery lead a go yet - sorted for that next week though.

Heard a good report about the Stainless thing there SD, heard they kick ass.

This is the 400gr Mk 1


 

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote viscount Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2011 at 5:35am
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go to make lure .com and you can buy mold making rubber high temp/strength. i have brought it for making game heads and the mold lasts. we where using the same stuff years ago when Grimreapers were costing a packet.
Calling fishing a hobby is like calling brain surgery a job - Paul Schullery
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote tackle whore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2011 at 9:06am
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stay away from battery lead
1. its crystalised/very brittle  due too the acid
2. the fumes from the lead with the acid residue will cook your lungs mate . you can add zink to your lead 10% instead of antimony , you just need to up your temp by 40'C. 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote treedoc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2011 at 6:27pm
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Jolly those look primo mate, gotta be happy with them for a first effort.

Tackle Whore..  Any further on your rubber details?
Cheers, Muz
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tiger Fish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2011 at 5:12pm
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What kills me is the effort you put into it. The high expectations, clear coats and dreams of huge kingi seeing the attractive new friend you  spent hours with in the garage... only to be chomped by a smelly old cutta.... hrrr hrrrr 

I have lost some beauties but doing something fishing related in the garage is priceless 
I only fish with Jigstar rods!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2011 at 9:20pm
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Awesome Jolly, must be pretty stoked with your first pour!Thumbs Up

Mark ( tackle whore ) put up some of your jigs for us! You are talented...

I will need a source of quality jigs in the future to paint, I would love to make em but time is tight and I don't like lead... I could buy jigs from some far off land that are rubbish etc... so get pouring guys and get the process dialled in Wink

Had a go at painting a few little ones for a friend. 3" littleys.


http://www.facebook.com/pages/Reel-Appeal-Lures/300309486704362
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote JOLLY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2011 at 10:52pm
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Those look awesome, go on then, spill the beans... 
Finishing 101 please....

Where and what paint do I use? 
Are there compatibility issues with Paint, clear coat or foil adhesion?
Best clear coat?
Where and what do I look for in a foil?
What is the best Lumo paint? I've read Redenz stuff is OK for sinkers.
Do you clear coat over the foils - how do I avoid ruining the foils? 
  
Originally posted by treedoc treedoc wrote:

 pour 10 jigs, melt mold, clean up the driveway, pants, shoes, buy primer, paint, clearkote, holo foils, eyes, then spray the  jigs, ruin all the holo foil, realise the eyes wont stick, sand em all off again, spray the jigs again, give em some clearkote, end up with some pretty **** homemade jigs,  
 

placate the missus for all the concrete dust/splatter around the place - I've had employ this a couple of times already Treedoc - I think I'm about a 1/3 of the way through the process you described earlier.

Dean, can I borrow some more of your s#!t, maybe an Air brush. I'll get some primmered and lumo on for this weekend, how's the home brew supply?

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2011 at 11:56pm
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[QUOTE=JOLLY] Those look awesome, go on then, spill the beans... 
Finishing 101 please....

Where and what paint do I use? For the detail / size of jigs airbrush capable paint is best.
Are there compatibility issues with Paint, clear coat or foil adhesion? Hell yeah, It is a matter of finding what works and doesn't...Knowing a paint chemist would help, or do what I did ruin paint jobs and throw away money until something works for you.
Best clear coat? Most would say a 2K PU clear...but it will depend on your base coats etc...
Where and what do I look for in a foil? This stuff is top secret for many commercial jig makers, it needs to stretch for convex curves etc...trial and error here too.
What is the best Lumo paint? I've read Redenz stuff is OK for sinkers. This would be one of the hardest to get info on, how many spray painters you know paint lumo cars? LOL I don't really dabble in lumo but I think most add a photoluminicent stuff to there paint...Lumo colours aren't very light fast so U.V kills it so special coats of products are needed.
Do you clear coat over the foils - how do I avoid ruining the foils? Epoxy the finished jig.

Jolly will PM you some more details and specifics...Also try and track down JTF...he has way more knowledge in this area and may help you out...
 
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Reel-Appeal-Lures/300309486704362
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote JOLLY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2011 at 8:35am
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  • Found a friendly automotive paint chemist
  • The only Enamel Lumo I have found to date is a Spray Can by Plasticoat from Mitre10.
  • Why 2pack PU clear then Epxoy finish as well?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ReelAppealLures Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2011 at 10:34am
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Originally posted by JOLLY JOLLY wrote:

  • Found a friendly automotive paint chemist
  • The only Enamel Lumo I have found to date is a Spray Can by Plasticoat from Mitre10.
  • Why 2pack PU clear then Epxoy finish as well?

Haven't used this stuff, but looks good.

You don't need to epoxy the jig, but I think it would give the best "lasting" finish... I have been trying a product from POR15- on jigs yet to try on wooden lures....


http://www.facebook.com/pages/Reel-Appeal-Lures/300309486704362
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Kingaling Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2022 at 3:21pm
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Some bloody impressive creations here chaps. Inspirational stuff really..  

I'm looking at making up a few smaller metal jigs - anyone able to tell me if this stuff would suit for making moulds with?

https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/gorilla-high-temp-silicone-sealant-310ml-black/p/343143 ;

or perhaps this as it's a tad cheaper: 

Cheers
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