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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2021 at 4:38pm
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Stern.

Between frame B and D.

Limber frame D. Needs to be cleaned up a bit.

Port stringer. Sistered a bit of wood as it wasn’t perfectly against the hull here.

Weekend project is to glass the front

Transom. Drain hole scuppers and sump. Needs finishing.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2021 at 4:26pm
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Bit of work done over the school holidays. Went to Qtown and Twizel for a few days but got some done before and after. 

Finished the inside glass at the front and filled the weave with a microballoon mix. I'm going to use some of this under the berths for storage and some for flotation. Not sure which will be which yet. 

Glassed in Frames C and E, under sole portions. The above sole part will wait until Spring probably. There's limber holes in both frames, and E will be closed with a bung for drainage. Should any water get in the outside compartments, there will be inspection ports in each (four in total.) These will be protected from both rainwater and deck water ingress. Vent holes will be added soon, to guard against pressure differential on hot days. 

Also drilled some holes for the Ubolts bow (10mm bolt) and stern (2x 8mm  bolts). 
Drilled oversize 25mm at the stern and filled with epoxy putty. No way for water to ever get to the wood. 


At the bow I drilled through the hull 10.5mm diameter by eye (it was 18mm thick!) dry fitted the Ubolt into the holes, then glassed a 12mm backing pad on the inside. Three layers of tape over to spread the load. The backing pad was predrilled 25mm and putty filled. The front of the hull will be slightly over diameter and sealed with either Gflex or some 4200 when I'm ready. 


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Reel Deal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2021 at 6:13am
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been enjoying popping into this thread to get updates on progress. Looking good fella.
The gods do not subtract from the allotted span of men's lives the hours spent on fishing - Assyrian Proverb
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2021 at 2:53pm
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Way to drill for a Ubolt thanks to the late CrackerLarry in Georgia USA for this idea. 

Make a jig from a 2 by 4. Measure and drill the holes with a drill press if you can, or use a drillblock or similar to get them perpendicular to the wood.  Then check with the Ubolt and repeat until it's a good fit. Then clamp to where the Ubolt will go and drill. Then bolt through this hole so it's really tight and secure then drill the other. Dry fit first and use sealant after you paint. 

If you get it almost right, next largest drill bit and more of the sealant. 

Doing it by eye is usually asking for trouble. Works for thin holes, but not for a whole transom. 

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2021 at 3:00pm
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Anyone wondering about the ~18mm thickness at the bow:

From the outside in: Aluminium filled epoxy and fairing               ~1mm.
                              4-5 layers of 400g tape and glass                    3mm. 
                              6mm plywood core                                        6mm
                    Epoxy putty Fillet for smoothing the radius               ~5mm.
                    Another 4-5 layers of 400g tape and glass               ~3mm.

Total something like 18mm +-. 

This is just down a ~100mm line at the keel where everything overlaps. In the middle of panels the thickness is closer to 9mm. 


                              
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2021 at 6:15pm
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First coat of primer on. Was going to overcoat with a second coat of primer; can said 15minutes would be enough but it started to orange peel so I stopped. Sure felt good getting that on. I’ll put on the second coat tomorrow or Sunday. Used POR15 high build and will overcoat with POR15 single pack topcoat when cured.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2021 at 6:52pm
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That's interesting. The online instructions for POR15 say 12 hours between recoats of primer. They can't both be right. I'll put a coat on tomorrow I suppose.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MacSkipper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2021 at 5:48am
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wow suddenly its starting to look like a boat, going to give you many great years of use!
Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.
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can said 15minutes would be enough but it started to orange peel so I stopped.

Orange peel is usually caused by too high gun pressure  or incorrect  viscoisty in the gun. And happens as spraying.
If excessive the paint doesnt flow out before 'drying'

 Being under coat, you should be able to give it a bit of a block between coats.. then the finish coat flows right out to mirror finish.
 
 Time between coats is very important on these 'systems'  Often too short one can get fry ups (never had in por thu) and too long the paint cures to far to enable good adherence and bonding to previous coat.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2021 at 12:08pm
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I reread the instructions on both can and online. I'm guessing the flash off time of 15mins would work if spraying on metal at 20 degrees.  It was colder than that yesterday. But still a contradiction between the two. 

 Instructions allow a sand between coats of primer but adhesion is better if I don't. So I won't. Second coat of high build then a good sand down to 320grit once fully cured. Orange peel isn't on much of the hull, so I can deal with that when I need to. 




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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MATTOO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2021 at 5:09pm
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I hope you resolve this problem.
You have put so much work in to date.

As steps pointed out.

And I will confirm, orange peel is the result of application.
Incorrect gun pressure, too close a nozzle, incorrect mix of fluids, and temps. Temps run to the base or item or spraying onto and the temp and humidity.

If you want to achieve a high end finish on final coats without good gun skills practice on other items before rushing in.

You can still save the final coat by blocking down the base primer.
Use a sanding coat spray.
A sanding coat spray is using waste colours with a 80 percent mix of thinners over the surface of your primer at a controlled distance.
This opaque colour when sanded will show the highs and lows and prevent oversanding and profile forming.

I'll leave it at that as the subject and techniques are involved.

If you want more precise info on coatings you can pm me for a ph conversation.

M
Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!
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I'm using brush and roller. I will get a POR15 rattle can in blue for accents. 

The high build was just brushed on, I'll use a roller for the topcoat. I've been thinking about a commercial vinyl wrap when all done, so if I'm not happy with the finish I'll use that instead of trying my hand at pro spraying gear. 

I think that I needed to have thinned the paint, and used a roller even for the high build. I'll order some POR15 thinner when I get more high build and the spray can.  




At the moment it’s a three foot finish. I can see the blemishes up close but they disappear with a bit of distance.
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Brush /roller.. ok...
Even so when we have brushed onto steel there is more than enough time for it to flow out.
We didnt use por as a finish coat thu. Was used to seal the steel (hot rods/trailer chasis)
Then, Steel panels, hit with automotive hi build.
Blocked back.. any high spots blocked back only so can just see thru the coat NO MORE. The hollows, chips, imperfections where lightly circled with a pencil as one went around with a 400/500mm flexable sanding block.

Fill any chips, even the tiniest of imperfection 2nd coat high build, 1st  hit the hollows .. maybe 2X...then whole lot.
 Repeat the block down.

If experienced on restored panels.. 2 coats high build, If not 3 coats.

Time to block.. To do a say 69 camaro, full paint, 1st block, about 3 hrs....2nd block 1 1/2 to 2hrs.

Now a thought....every workshop, home garage should have small a compressor .. if looking to the future able to spray up  a few panels, couple air tools, blow out the shed, even blow out the car before washing.. look a little larger.. its about air flow, not pressure.
And at least a basic touch up gun (smaller pot, suits smaller compressor to recover between pots)

Bit of capital outlay, but they are part of a list of tools that in the future will occasionally use, yet will be very to glad to have... Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2021 at 11:55am
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I might get a compressor at some stage, but spraying paints isn't on my agenda. I'm happy with a good brush/roller finish but not orange peel. I think it was a few things: paint a bit thick, not waiting between coats, and my brushing technique. I'll sort it out with the high build before I topcoat. No hurry to do that; I need to get the gunwales and sole on. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Pcj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2021 at 2:50pm
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being in the south my advice would be not top coat until warmer temps,did some door frames on a house in remers in winter,next day sanded and went to apply 2nd coat and yep started peeling,we went back in spring to finish.Lady not happy but she wouldnt warm the house up so what do you do??
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2021 at 6:43pm
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That's the plan. I wanted to get the high build primer on so I could get a good look at any last spots needing a fill/fair. What looks good under an 60grit epoxy sand doesn't always when moving to 180grit and the primer. Just a few spots here and there. Also wanted to protect the outside against UV, which is cumulative. I'll make sure it's well well cured before topcoat. Supposed to cure in at least 13 degrees, though takes much longer than the normal summer 24hours. 

I spent today mainly mucking around cutting out Frame A, and pondering layouts. Will post on a seperate thread. 
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I'm happy with a good brush/roller finish but not orange peel. I think it was a few things:
Bottom line to brush or roller and not get peel or brush marks is the skill of an old school tradie craftsman painter.. All the one I knew are now dead... and thats with old school enamels that tend to flash off late and dry (not cure) over 24hrs, allowing for these far longer times to flow out flat to mirror finish.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2021 at 1:57pm
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Good to know. It is what it is. 
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