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C17 new project.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2020 at 7:20am
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Skeg



Centre holes.

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Despite the cold weather I got back into it this week. I'm looking for some photos but it's hard to take them in the tent with the tarp over. Camera doesn't pick up the detail. Sorted out the best tool I've found so far for applying fairing putty. 

Just a regular bathroom squeegee. Works like a charm. I mix the epoxy in a container, then add the fillers 3:1 microballoon for sanding to fumed silica for thixothropy. 

This gets it mostly mixed in, and when it's like a thick chocolate cake batter (it really looks like this but I don't recommend eating it!) I put it all on the well sanded hull. Then I use a smaller squeegee to finish the mixing, smooth out any remaining lumps of filler, and get it to where I need it on the hull. Then I go over it with a few long passes of the shower squeegee. It leaves a smooth slightly textured surface, with the occasional mark from the edges of the silicone rubber. 

So far I've put three passes of fairing on. First to fill the weave and two more. I think with the experience of this side I can get the other down to two passes to get it to the same state. I could choose to seal and paint at this stage, but will spot fill all the little remaining bits and pieces first. This could easily take another 3+ passes but I won't be using as much putty. I also need to fillet and tape the skeg, so haven't finished that part yet. Annoyingly I will need to tape it twice, from each side as room is so lacking. 

I'll try to get some photos up tomorrow. I do have a photo of my sanding board. Took me about 20 minutes to make, plus time for the glue to set. Follows the curves ok, though much of the boat is sandable with the flat painting blocks. 


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Photos of the fairing process. This is after block sanding the hull side and bottom for about two hours today. Gave it up as I was beginning to sweat like a pig and was worried about contaminating the surface. The low spots in most cases are only very slightly lower than the surface: a straightedge held against the hull shows no visible gap and the 60grit sandpaper was barely scratching the lows. 

Before sanding but after a rough up with a wet scotchbrite to clean off any blush (I rarely see blush but am assuming that it's always there.)



I'll get back on to it soon, and start with the spot filling. I'll give the whole hull another going over first and try and get to some of those lows with the 60grit. It's quite a workout.

Also rough sanded the skeg tape, not ideal to tape it this late in the build but the other side will get taped before fairing. One layer 400g each side overlapped in the middle. The rub strip will be screwed and gflex glued on later. Photo is before sanding. 


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote pjc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2020 at 7:21pm
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Not an expert on fairing but your board looks short,Gave a boat builder a hand a few yrs go and board was about a metre long,hard work but very little fairing went on.short boards can create hollows.
26ft strip plamked kaihikatea hull,faired hull then glassed with triaxle?and took little fairing of glass.

looking good though.
Don't come home without fish,wonder what the lawns look like??
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2020 at 8:27pm
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If I was fairing a 26’ hull I’d be using a metre long board as well. Not sure how I’d fit it onto the hull. It’s 6mm plywood cut across the grain so bends ok.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote MarkE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Oct 2020 at 10:59pm
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 Use a 1m fairing board, Trust me. anything less is going to give you a substandard finish. Not sure what you mean by it not fitting?

 
Sea Strike 18' Centre Console - Under Construction....Build Thread here
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2020 at 9:27am
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Ditto.. mentioned previously..
 Even on small door/ fender panels long flexible sanding boards with firm sponge between board and 'paper with handles each end to apply twist to the boards.
 Covers huge areas very fast with little effort.
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OK I'll give a longer board a go. 

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Presume you are fairing keel to chine diagnolly then diagnal the other way.not working bow to stern but across hull.hollows mark with pencil and fill .hard to describe without being there.board shouldn't flex.
Don't come home without fish,wonder what the lawns look like??
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The blocking board we used on 'glass and classic cars where a very high level of mirror fish was required, are flexable to follow the natural curves, used at a diagonal angle several directions across the surface.
Flat boards only go over limited area and do not 'ave' the overall curves and far more work.
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Well I've made a longer board, got some rubber from Para to glue to both the 3' and 2' boards. The longer one is long enough to cover from keel to chine on a diagonal. 

The sandblaster finally got done with the stripping so I took the trailer frame in to Perry's metal protection today. 120kg after I disassembled it. Dipping the frame only, Not the axle or drawbar, which must therefore weigh 140kg between them. Had to cut off one of the bolts (new rust free bolt ironically the nylock nut was completely stuck!)

I've got a POR15 rust kill kit for those parts and some new bolts for the springs etc. Then paint on top. Springs will probably be left as is and lanocoated. Drilled a small hole in the axle near the top to inspect for interior condition, Poured a cup of oil in, and cleaned and sealed with epoxy. 


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Trailer ready to go. Not much time fairing recently. It really is the doldrums of boat building. Lots of work; no progress.

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Current expenditure is $4500 for the hull materials and fibreglassing tools, and almost $14,000 in total. 
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Galving is done, going to go pick up tomorrow I hope. 

Looking at about $600. 

If the sandblasting was $300 (haven't got the invoice yet), that's about 2.5k for the trailer rebuild when all's said and done. 


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Nice and shiny. Let it weather a little before I lanocote or immediately after assembly?

$450 for the galv.
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My trailer guy recommended CRC soft seal when I got my trailer re-galvanised, great stuff used it on springs 2 years ago and no rust at all.
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Cheers. Will definitely do something for it. After all this work I don’t want to strip and regalv ever again.
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Two hours sanding yesterday then another hour this morning. Graduated from microballons on the side; moving to some leftover West microlight. Very creamy and sands to feather edge. Will stay with microballons and silica for the bottom, as that’s where it gets the abuse.

You can just see where I marked the side with a 6b pencil before this morning’s sanding. Lows are where the pencil doesn’t sand evenly. Covered with west 410 microlight afterwards where the lows were then used a squeegee to fair the putty in. Will sand tomorrow pm or next week.

Almost happy with most of the bottom panel already: nobody’s going to be looking at it so I’m after a smooth surface for performance and personal pride. It does not have to be perfect. Sides I want perfect. Rubrail and gunwales will have a texture bedliner coating so no need for perfect there. Cabin outside will also need to be close to perfect.
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Just now.
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Reckon I’ve done what I can on this side for now. One final sand then WEST recommend a seal coat of epoxy before high build primer. This will be pigmented with Aluminium powder. Already got a couple of coats on the bottom. The bottom is definitely workboat quality but I won’t be painting it, and nobody’s going to be looking at it either. It’s smooth but not glass. Fine by me.



I’ll need to do the bow after getting the other side on. Otherwise I’ll just be glassing over fairing.
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