I rang adhesive technologies today re WEST ratios. 5:1 is fine by either volume or weight. Ideally by weight though 5.2 or 5.4 to 1 is better if I can manage that. There is more leeway being a bit resin rich than hardener rich.

I think roller trailers on NZ roads may qualify 

 You mean non keel wobblies?

Thats maybe a though thinking right thru..At this stage rather than later.

Old school keel boats where designed to take the weight on a keel roller trailer with side rollers there to keep even.. Correctly setup the side rollers should be able to just be turned by hand when boat not tied down.
 Wobblies on a non keel trailer , not positioned well on a keel boat can cause problems breaking the glass corrugations formed over the stringers,
Stress on hulls between between bulk heads etc

Modern non keel boats construction tends to be a bit different in placing of bulk heads and such match trailers or visa versa

I had a minor incidence a while back.. new truck, hitch different height , loading on hitch too light. Moved the boat forward about 3/4" did not re set the side wobblies.. punched a very minor crack in the hull about 1" inside the chine, going over a speed hump.
 We leaked around 2 to 3L over a 8hr day.

I went hiking today but spent a few hours at the end of the day splicing the other side of my bottom panels. I think I've done this side much better than yesterdays, where I will have some voids to drill and fill. They really only need to be strong enough to hold together while planking, but I don't want voids anywhere in this hull if I can help it. 

Keep in mind that your boat would have much more load on the trailer than mine. 6m glass vs 5.3m wood epoxy composite.

No 5.5m glass, not 6m

I would not, regardless of what anyone says, rely on an extra layer of glass, or even more layers within reason to provide enough strength in a hull, between bulkheads .. even thu a stringer or chine very close.
 You are putting a sudden thump from a pot hole or a speed bump, onto a VERY SMALL area that has a huge impact properly going into several tons / per inch... and even more so if it is a keel boat on wobbles.

Keep in mind a bottom hull impact strength is designed to take a hit on the same plane the boat is traveling in.. a glancing hit....a supporting wobbly is direct 90 deg impact.
 If want to strengthen for that, use plate steel.

Several tons per inch? Given that the average roller should support about 25-40kgs that’s well over 10g acceleration. If that were the case in normal use no boat would survive a wobble roller.

 lets use the old example, a ladies stiletto shoe heel..
 She may weigh say 70kgs, but the pressure on that small area of the heel.. from memory.. works out to around 10 ton ..maybe was 1 ton.. whatever thats a a huge amount of pressure.
 Now apply that to th every small area of hull, that is in contact with the top edge of a wobbly....

I put a small crack in my hull.. next to a chine cause hull was sitting just a little heavy on a wobbly.. not supported fully by the keel... in between bulk heads... and hit a speed bump... and even slowed down for it.
 And its not an uncommon repair.

20 rollers.. now that makes sense...

Anyway, I bit the bullet, decided that the stringers would need to be redone (again!) and scrapped the transom as well.

Full credit  plus more for that attitude..there are many projects, not just boats where ppl keep on keeping on .. then find at the end , nothing fits and strength etc is compromised.

A extra mm here another there , espec in early stages, will end up having you tear your hair out later cause stuff doesnt fit...

Couple of other things in my new transom:

OneWayTraffic wrote: After a bit of mucking around with stringers and transom I am starting to set up the jig.  This method does not require the accuracy of a traditional jig, which is just as well. CNC cutting would be the only option for me if that were the case.  To complicate things the ground is not perfectly flat. I checked with a hose pushed into duty as a water level. One end of the jig is 100mm higher than the other. That's about 1.5 degrees off horizontal.  The strongback is as level as I can get it on the ground like it is, and I will make first measurements off that, and then adjust the frames so they are lined up. Hoping for +-3mm everywhere if I can get it.  Photo of the first attempt. I quickly decided that was too high and lowered the frames 20cm so I can reach the keel. Room to get around it will be tight.

great winter project enjoying following it....