C17 new project.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2023 at 8:42pm
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Few more pics. I’m on my phone so I’ll not write much.

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It’s essentially done. Just got to make a support for the top, interior and some exterior fairing then primer and out of the tunnel house.
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Titanium
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Looking good mate,
Sea Strike 18' Centre Console - Under Construction....Build Thread here
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Finally have had enough of sanding (damn autocorrect put saving!) and fairing and put some paint down. Two coats of Bullyliner, supposedly 100% waterproof and durable. Also nonskid so hides minor scratches and marks.

Best thing about it though is the water based cleanup.
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Transom step and cover for the honking great 3 in 1 transducer. Glued and glassed in. 


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Moderator - Ninja
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Getting close!
Best gurnard fisherman in my street
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I can almost feel it. But still a lot to do. Paint and rigging the motor etc. I’m planning to hang it and feed the cables etc but will probably need to have a shop check it over.
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Took it out of the tunnel house for a sand and wash. Hoping to paint tomorrow. I’m sick of sanding and filling. It might be a ten foot finish. 
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Moderator - Ninja
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Wicked OWT! It looks the real deal now. I didn't build my boat but it certainly looks it's best when wet and viewed from 50m away. Most people shudder when they see it at 10 feet Big smile.

Your lawns look like mine but I hope your garage doesn't.
Best gurnard fisherman in my street
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Pierre'o Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2023 at 8:53pm
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Looking good. Bet you can’t wait to splash
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Based on how long the first coat of polyurethane is taking to cure it will be a while. Should have gone with exterior acrylic latex. Much more foolproof for outside weather. 
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hey OWT

Love the lines mate, I built a Bowdidge 16 over Covid and share your pain, I think your doing a great job and know you’ll get a lot of satisfaction out of this build, from my experience, I’d say, things start moving really quickly from here, you’ve done the lions share, once the final coat ( of paint) is on it’ll come together so quickly you’ll be amazed.

I bet your hands are a mess from expoxy, sandpaper and dust, it’s worth it 👍🏻

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I’d bought an electric HVLP sprayer and shot the inside of the boat with wait for it… Solagard. 

Modern water based paints are incredible if you don’t need extreme gloss or abrasion resistance. Yesterday I spent about 4 hours brush and roller today second coat took all of 15minutes if that. I spent twice as long thinning paint as I did spraying. Massive time saver. And it’s touch dry hours later in 90% humidity with spots of rain, though covered obviously. Paint will be covered with carpet and possibly some lining fabric here and there. I’ll try spraying the second coat of one part polyurethane when it warms up, after a good blocking back. But a couple more coats on the interior, then some trim work to offset the white look, carpet and fittings over winter. Outboard will need to wait until the exterior paint cures. Not sure how I can speed that up at the moment. 
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We use durepox on our sailing boats, incredibly tuff and durable, but expensive. Could be worth looking at for the exturnal hull. I like cause you can sand and polish it to a high gloss and it touches up really nicely. I either brush or roll it on then sand and cut and polish.

https://reseneauto.co.nz/durepox/
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Cheers, I'll look into it. I'm willing to give the POR15 polyurethane topcoat a chance to cure properly, it's getting there, except where I laid it on too thick. I can see a block back in my future, then I may try spraying the next coat. 

A lot of two part paints have isocyanates in them. It's what gives all the desirable qualities of a two part: gloss, hardness, quick cure and chemical resistance. It's also so toxic that you just can not spray them without full skin protection and a fresh air mask. Some use a charcoal filter, but that's rolling the dice. Once you get sensitised, it's game over. 
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Word from a Resene technical expert:

Q: Question: I have a wood epoxy boat that I am painting. I like using waterborne paints for their ease of application, cleanup and exceptional UV resistance. I know that some people have used these successfully on a boat.

What are the pros or cons over using these compared to a marine enamel like Regatta, for an application that will be above the waterline, and the boat will not be in the water longer than a day, ever?

A: For a moored boat on the external exposed to the UV and the salt spray The Regatta will out perform any waterborne for durability, lifetime, and protection while holding the colour and gloss level. The closest product from the Resene range would be the Resene Gloss- Enamel which is solvent borne.

 

For the interior of a cabin there is no real difference in the performance of the Regatta compared to the waterborne products.

 

While in this instance not moored and only used occasionally the Regatta will still out perform any waterborne products, but the waterborne products like Lustacryl/ Enamacryl/ Spacecote will still have a durability and good performance.


This was received within two hours! I must admit that Resene is far and away the best common brand available in NZ for technical data, both on the website, and also obviously great when you ask a question. 


So in effect if the boat is just getting used every other week or so, then it's a question of a bit more durability vs ease of application. Since I've already got POR15 on the hull, I'll stay with that if it eventually cures hard (it's getting there) and stay with waterbased for inside and on the top deck etc. I like the easy application, the fact that I can put a coat on in 30mins if I like, touch up with a brush in five minutes and no fumes. 


If I'm not happy with the POR15 or want a colour that's different I'll put on a Resene enamel over it. I'll keep updated on here so people can make up their own minds. 

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Anyway here’s the boat with two spray coats of thinned Solagard inside and one poorly done coat of POR15 one part polyurethane outside. I didn’t bother masking inside as the whole boat will get white before I put any other colours on it. 

The POR will be blocked back and overcoated.  This time by spray. 
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Hi guys, just thought I'd drop a message as I built a the Classic 17 featured in the small boats monthly article: https://smallboatsmonthly.com/article/classic-17/

Really impressed with the new layout you've done there. Having used 'Sadie' for a couple of seasons I have been contemplating replacing the cuddy with a more open layout, so will be keen to see yours once it's completed. The cuddy in the designs isn't overly practical and is quite restrictive while manoeuvring the boat.

I added smart trim tabs (sprung) to bring the bow down and stabilise the boat as the boat would ride very high in the water and seemed aft heavy.

Anyway, keep up the good work and hello from Dorset, UK.

Steve
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Thanks for those kind words. I thought long and hard about the layout, from a CDory style cuddy, to open center console. In the end I decided that the boat would not be used for sleeping very often if at all, so no need for a roof on the cuddy. But when I bolt the T-top on it there will be shade, and I have the option of using canvas for the roof, or a bow shade from the t-top. With this layout I can work the anchor from inside the boat, cast off the front benches, but also they are still full length, so I can nap on them. I made it up as I went really, so it lacks refinement, but I am after a practical boat for daytrips above all, as that will be most of the use. 

I think Sadie looks absolutely stunning. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Pierre'o Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2023 at 11:44am
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Agree, Sadie looks awesome. Well done on the finish!
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