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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote otdrmn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2020 at 11:13am
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Platinum
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Yes I built it 
No I dont have it although it has recently been for sale (may still be), although she looks a bit rough around the edges now the hull is still as sound as the day she was built
The 4 R's ~ Rods, Reels, Rifles, Rooting
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2020 at 9:06pm
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That’s the truly outstanding thing about building your own. No need to hope or guess that it was done right. And by the time you’re done there’s nothing you could not fix if need be.
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Bit of progress over the last few days.

Built a strongback to hold the jig.

Set up the tunnel house that will be the boats home until it is ready to go on the trailer. 

Cut out transom, clamping boards, all of the frames and stringers. 



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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2020 at 8:58am
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Titanium
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Coming inside the Waikato bar the other day, Im sure it was one of these anchored up near the 3 buoy from the bar.. didnt get a chance to get a pic.. Really tidy.Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan 2020 at 8:57pm
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Stringers glued up today after evening out some of the rough cuts with a power planer. I was using fast hardener so needed to work fast.
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Enjoying thanks
Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2020 at 6:34pm
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The stringers will need to be redone from scratch. I was using small medicine cups to mix epoxy, one for A and one for B then both put into a paper cup for mixing.  With the small batches I was using the residue left in the cups was enough to put it off ratio. The epoxy has cured, but is too rubbery and not nearly strong enough. I can get a screwdriver in between them.  $80 for a new sheet of marine ply and a few hours labour to fix it. Not really a big deal in the scheme of things. In the meantime I can use them in the jig, they don't get permanently installed until much later.

First time I've screwed up a mix. I was using the dregs of the jug and the pumps weren't pulling. 

Next time I'll put it all in the same cup. Much easier. 


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 4:51pm
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I've been a bit busy: Photos to follow soon (I write on the PC but use my iPhone for photos.)

On Tuesday I screwed up the epoxy gluing the stringers. I took the day off on Wednesday to sit back and regroup. Got some other work done and asked a few questions on the Bateau forums about what to do. 

Bottom line: I can not trust the stringers, and the epoxy is cured very well in some places and others I could pick the epoxy off with my fingers. They will go to landfill. I will try to rescue the motorwell support braces at the back. 


So I ripped a board of 9mm (my last decent board) into strips roughly 125mm-130mm wide. I then tried to get my sad looking strips straight and parallel with a power planer and circular saw. No go. I did get within 3mm. 

This morning I went out and purchased a flush cut router bit. I used the straight edge of a sheet of 6mm ply to act as the jig and got it done. Amazing the difference the correct tool makes. 

Epoxy is on the way to CHCH, summer slow hardener, and I have bought a scale to do small batches accurately.

Next job is to cut out the hull panels, splice them together glue up the stringers again, laminate the transom and set up the jig.






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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 4:54pm
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. Photos are of the best I could do with a planer and after the flush cut bit. Nice to have the right tools for the job.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 5:14pm
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Titanium
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The post above you mentioned fast cure hardner
 1st thing that crossed my mind was "why"
1st workshop rule  of mixing is accuracy of measure.. this very much determines the strength of any sort of 2 pot mix.. epoxy, paint whatever
 2nd rule.. when you think you have it mixed, mix that much again....
 Using a fast cure is for small quick emergency fixes or specialist application only.. where small quick repairs are needed...a patch fix...and also compromises end strength days or sometimes weeks later.
  Both rules.. and appears you may have broken both at the same time... mistakes everyone makes at some time.
 Even when have been told previously.

You have the good sense to do both at the same timeWink
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Fast cure was what I had leftover. I built my previous boat in winter. 24L with slow are on the way. I thought I’d get away with it if I mixed small batches.

Evidently not. Combination of not enough epoxy in the jug for the pumps and not mixing both parts in the same cup.

My bad and lesson learned. First time I’ve ever had a non cure.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan 2020 at 6:56pm
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WEST epoxy strength is basically the same regardless of hardener. It was just too hot. I got impatient. Could have been worse.

Edit: just checked the data sheets. Slow has the advantage of slightly more elongation. But in most relevant properties they are the same. They can be used interchangably as well in any combination as long as they are the same ratio (5:1).  

Most important thing is to match temperature to hardener. I have used Fast in the summer before; but earlier in the day.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ET487 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2020 at 7:37am
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Why don't you not using the West System 5 to 1 pumps? Small price to pay for getting the correct ratio everytime and slow hardener is the way to go.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2020 at 9:24pm
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I have the pumps. Have a careful look at the photos they are there. I was using the last bit in the bottom of a jug. The tubing for my pumps doesn’t go all the way down to the bottom of the containers. If the pumps get air bubbles in the mix they don’t work. Moreover they need regular checks anyway so some manual confirmation is required.

When I pick up my new order of epoxy the pumps will be back in business.

Anyway hopefully sorted now. All the hull panels are cut out. Splicing them is next:one layer tape per side. Then getting the jig together and Gluing stringers and transom
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2020 at 9:26pm
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ET487 is that a bowdidge boat? Wpuldbe interesting to compare plans sometime.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ET487 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2020 at 8:40am
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Yes i agree you need regular cleaning of that pumps. I bought some clear plastic tubing from Smart Marine and fit to my pumps. They going right to the bottom of container now.
I am busy to build the ET487 but it going slow as i do contract work away from home.   Also do not have much photos of the build left as i dropped my phone into a watertank so most is gone.
Last week i snapped my biceps muscle so not a good start for year either, lol but iwill get to the end sometime.
Good luck with your build.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2020 at 7:17pm
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So I've cut out all the hull panels. The bottom panel is two full sheets of plywood long (4880mm).  The sides are in two pieces, lower and upper with a 150mm overlap. This helps to stiffen the sides, I'll install the upper side later after the bottom glass goes on. 

One oopsie on the cutting, circular saw grabbed and cut a little slash in the upper side panel. For now I've just patched the gap with epoxy, it will be covered up properly later. Didn't take a photo of that.

The best way to cut large panels that need to be symmetrical is to screw two sheets of plywood together and cut them at the same time. Otherwise little differences creep in. I then used a power planer to tidy up the places where I cut outside the lines, rebate a little bit where I'll splice the panels and drilled some stitching holes along the chines and keel. 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2020 at 7:41pm
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It doesn’t really show in the photos but looking at the hull panels makes it obvious. This will be a big 17’ boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan 2020 at 7:37am
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Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

What total gross weight with ppl etc do you recon it will be on the water?
 What speed do you realistically recon it will get over the bow wave on the plain?
 Havnt done this sort of old school hull or looked into them.
 It is a plaining...yet,. going of my dads old clinker 25hp @the powerhead.. not prop.. it was more a displacement to semi displacement, which is a total different kettle of fish in calculation.. formula.

Messed with some planing hulls trolling as displacement , semi displacement.. defiantly hull length a serious factor.

Would like to play with some numbers. I have no accurate data base of similar hulls to even estimate hull constants on the plain.
I would certainly not take the results as anymore than a very generous ball park.Ermm


Have a bit more information here. 260kg is the calculated hull weight: Okoume plywood, epoxy, glass (calculated at 40% glass content) and some fairing putty only. 

I will be running glass up the topsides (specs say only hull bottom) and will probably put another layer on the bottom. I'll also glass the sole with biaxial. I may or may not put a light glass (100 or 200g) on the cabin roof and other places. So add about 30kg there. 

I'm using Meranti for the hull panels and frames/transom. Add another 25kg or so. I'm planning to buy Okoume for the rest but may not. 

Add another 30kg-50kg for a couple of side benches(storage for tote tanks/ice box and leaning post for me. 

Add 50kg for rigging/steering/gauges/fishfinder/hatches/bunk cushions etc.

Add 50kg for anchor and batteries, 20kg each for up to two tote tanks (full.)

20kg ice, fishing gear, food and drink and other misc.

150kg for a BFT, 125kg for a Marlin Big smile, 400kg for a sword... or not.

110kg for a 60hp outboard,10kg for aux.

Subtract 10kg for not putting the rear lockers in, and if I manage a better than 40% glass content. Possibly subtract more as I plan to build the cabin from 6mm ply glassed with a light cloth rather than 10mm ply. 

85kg for me. 140kg approx for two/three others. (This could be more, but then it could be less.)

Add that all up: 845kg, call it 850kg. That will put the sole right at the waterline, unless I raise the sole. There is room to raise it 2.5cm or more. The PPI is 350pounds, 160kg per inch. Cockpit depth is at least 640mm plus any coaming.

Currently I don't really plan to raise the sole much if any. I will run elephant trunk scuppers out the rear, a bilge pump for leakage, and possibly side scuppers that will be plugged almost all the time. The side benches will be designed in a way that they act as temporary buoyancy chambers in the unlikely event of a swamping. 



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