C17 new project.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan 2022 at 6:57pm
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No doubt that building with Aluminium is faster. 
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It's just not the same I am guessing
Best gurnard fisherman in my street
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 The home builds in Aluminium that I've seen look a bit rough unless the person has both skills and machine tools. Composite construction like this is forgiving, strong, light and flexible. The boat is already very strong and stiff. Each piece added contributes to the overall strength. 

At the end of the day working with wood and glass is a lot easier for an amateur. It does take more time. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Pierre'o Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 2022 at 10:00am
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Oneway, there's a youtube channel I'm following with this fella building a 23'skiff.
Here's ep 1:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0le4e9KgmlU&t=75s

He's up to ep 21, so quite a bit of viewing. Beats the TV on offer each evening :)

V inspiring.
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 Here’s the start of my cooler. Plywood side in from the hull side. The hull side curves a bit here so it’s as close as I can get it and have it perpendicular. Glass tube to join the two and out through the hull to drain most the water and slime out. I filled all around the tube with a thick chopped glass putty to keep it all in place and watertight. Tomorrow’s plan is to fix it in place in place with glass and fill with foam once cured. Then the other side goes on, ends and lastly the top.
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Finally got the pieces tabbed in place for Chilly bin bench and leaning post seat on the skipper's side.

The panels are 100kg/cubic metre polyurethane foam with a layer of 400g biax on the inside. Fairing putty as a bonding agent between foam and glass, and also to glue the foam blocks to the sole and frame sides. The bond there is not perfect, but a lot more than required to keep it all in place I hope. The outside will be rounded and glassed over and tabbed to the hull. The inside seams will just be filleted over filling any cracks and gaps, and avoiding dirt traps. 

The inside dimensions will be about 1.075l*0.3w*0.39d~115L total. Enough room for a legal kingie or a Kaikoura groper. Drain out the side of the boat through a fibreglass tube. I'll use a rubber bung. Foam is about 20mm thick plus plywood and glass. The outside foam is much thicker of course thanks to the curve of the hull. It should be enough to keep ice a couple of days if kept sealed. 

Not much to say about the driver's side. Just your standard bench, height for leaning against while standing. 






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Keep up the good work OWT, - and the posts. I wish I had the skills and patience
Best gurnard fisherman in my street
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Skills are easy: pick them up as you go. Patience on the other hand, you need plenty of that and stickability as well. 
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Seats taped in and covered with a light glass. Inside of chilly bin is glassed with a 25mm tape from Burnsco. Wets out nice and easy. Several layers of fairing putty on the foam top and sanded smooth. I’ll use some leftover uhmwpe to line the top and rubber strip under the lid for sealing. That’s the next step. I also want to get the floor painted inside lockers etc. good chance to try the Bedliner I bought.
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Front berths/ casting platform dry fit. Will be glassed in and framed under. Front half will be under cover but I’ll leave the back open.
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I find when getting into a project like this, there is a lot hard  drawn out work and feel getting no where after a while. Then One gets to certain stages during the build  and one stands back and goes  "WOW"
Its these moments makes things very satisfying...worth the patience, work and time.

I look at the pic above and can actually enjoy a Wow moment even thu its your project.
Thanks for sharing

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All credit to the designer. I cut the berths to plan and only needed to plane a little to get them to fit. Just enough gap all round for glue. 
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Spliced the two halves of the berths together. This is done by grinding out a little vee in the joint and filling with putty. Then a layer of 400g biaxial both sides. I used to just butt them together without the vee, but I found this method gives a more reliable join. Cure and flip. Grind out any drips and do the other side. 

200g woven cloth underneath, and some doublers under the hatch. Also a bit of 12mm by 60mm ply under the cutout and taped in. This will get stood/sat on frequently so after almost zero sag there. Will add a little more reinforcing, and paint the bits where glue won't go before I install. Figure that painting in the garage has to be easier than upside down in a boat Big smile. No fancy paint used on out of the way pieces like this, just a tough Dulux porch enamel tinted grey. All it has to do is protect from UV and be easy to touch up or clean. No going to paint bits I can't see, just the places where sunlight could potentially reflect off the sole and damage the under surfaces over a period of years. 
 
Topside will get glassed once in. 

Under the wood beams and makeshift weight is my cooler lid. Layer of foam glued to wood with a microballoon mix. Weak as far as an epoxy glue goes, but stronger than the foam. 



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Just dropped some cash on the last (hopefully) big ticket item required. $3060 for a Lowrance FS7 and Airmar SS175m 1kw chirp thruhull transducer. Gonna drill a hole in the hull for it once it arrives. 

Have bought an older Elite7 ti with totalscan transducer for the shallow stuff.  $750. I'll custom make a bracket for this; only going to be in the water once off the plane. 

Two 7" screens have more screen size than one 9", nearly as much as a 10". The sole difference between the Elite FS7 and 9 is the size of the screen. In all other ways, including resolution they are equal. 

I'd like to network them, but that will need to wait until I replace the Ti a few years down the track. 
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Total cost now at $24500. Will be in the water for 25k, unless the outboard dies or some other disaster. 

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Bit of paint going inside the boat for the first time. Big milestone. Started on front locker and under berths so as to get a feel for it. These places are mostly finished rough, only the most basic of weave filling on the glass. Nobody’s going to be seeing this unless they like sitting head down and bum up. LOL

This way I get a taste of what kind of finish I want to do on the more visible places. 



Front locker. The light grey dulux  aquanamel hides well unless you look closely. I put a rough initial coat of bully liner on top. Paint stops below the level of the front deck so as not to interfere with the epoxy bond. 



Birds eye view. Taped off here but ran out of masking tape. Bullyliner is the dark grey. Water Bourne truck bed liner. Easy to apply and clean up. 



Pulled the tape once touch dry. The bed liner hides a lot of sins but the paint will not. From a distance it looks much better, but this would bug me if it was in the cockpit. Outside the hull I’d reject and pull out the long board. Smile



Best shot I have of the bed liner texture with the uncoated epoxy for comparison. Sprayed is a bit more even but I’m fine with this on a floor for a fishing boat. This was done by pouring on the bed liner and rolling out with a microfibre roller. 



I was out of masking tape so painted the gap by hand while putting a second coat of aquanamel. The drips will be covered by the third coat of bed liner that will not go on until I’ve glued in the berths. Tape is really essential for a clean job. The third coat will be taped off cleanly; even though no one will be able to see it I’ll know. 

Thoughts on the bed liner. It’s a nice non slip tough coating for floors when rolled out. It’s possible to get an even coating with the roller if using a consistent pressure and pattern but the really nice jobs require a spray gun. Although touch dry I slightly damaged it in places where I stood on, keep that in mind for the third coat. Full cure takes three days. It covers a lot of minor blemishes, and should provide a non slip surface. It looks like it would hold an unglued rug well for a more distinguished look. 
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Finally got a fine warm weekend to glass in the front berths. Taped in with 400g biax cut to under 10cm width and a 200g woven tape over. I put a very light cloth over the whole lot, more for checking insurance and an indication that everything is properly wet out. The light cloth uses no more epoxy and not much more labour. I had to set up a fan heater and plastic drop cloth to cure it late afternoon once I lost the sun. 

It would have been much cleaner to glass both sides in the garage. In the event I had a lot of wrinkles to cut out this morning and so put some fairing on top. I’ll probably not be able to do much until Spring, but will do a bit more minor fairing. Most of it will be painted white and some will be covered with a fabric lining or squabs.


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Big day. That transducer is an absolute unit. Will run an old Elite ti next to the FS7. Fs7 has the 175m and the Ti has a totalscan.

Have to drill a hole in the hull now. Will reinforce with a backing plate.
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Hull core from near the back where the transducer will go. 11mm thick there, thanks to the extra fairing I needed to do to ensure a straight planing surface. I’ll take it to work and destruction test it.
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