C17 new project.

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Chine strips are UHMWPE. Harder to glue so the screws stay in the boat. Below the waterline so care was needed. First drilled pilot holes and dry fit the strip. Then located the pilot holes from inside and used a 13mm drill to rout out the wood core. Filled that with putty. Would have been easier to just drill but I wanted minimal damage to the glass, which is a couple of mm thick here. The strips above on the style line just get over drilled (second photo.)



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Preparing the UHMWPE. Some will say that this can’t be glued at all. Well apparently it can. The plastic has very long chain molecules that don’t strongly interact so the surface needs to be modified. First I wiped with acetone to remove dust. Then sanded with 60 grit. This was a very quick sand. Then acetone again and on to the propane torch. The photo shows the simple kind I set up and a couple of test pieces.



Kissing the surface with a quick pass of the torch (about 30cm a sec) propels reactive atoms (single oxygen and others) which are supposed to break up some of the long chains and also replace some hydrogen atoms with oxygen which can electron bond to the glue molecules. The treatments max effect is supposed to last about 15 minutes so you need to get the glue on fast afterwards. Then I screwed this into the chine like before. The screws will stay as insurance, though the glue is supposed to bond with over 2000psi to HDPE with good treatment. I have a couple of samples one just sanded and one fully treated. I’ll test when fully cured.

Photo is of the chine. I went over afterwards to ensure there’s no gap under for spray to get in and peel it off.
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Tried breaking my test piece today. 20mm square glued, and tied a rope through the hole. I then screwed the ply to a beam and leaned on it. Then again. Then tried bouncing back and forth. I gave myself a rope mark on my back but the plastic is still attached. I'll try getting more aggressive with it later. 

Removed screws today, and drilled out the holes to 4mm. I then inspected both sides for evidence of cracking or places where there could be water getting to the wood. 

 I'll leave them be for now then probably replace them bedded in g-flex after the flip. I am pondering whether to keep them, or just fill with epoxy or even use a couple of larger longer screws at the ends of each strip.
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Bit of progress this weekend. Made some fibreglass tube by rolling biaxial tape around a taped pool noodle. Broke it free the next day and set into my transom scupper holes with the use of a lot of putty to fill the gap entirely. Then a few more layers around the tubes overlapping onto the transom. Will have a bit of work to do to fair it in properly, but with all the things I'll have on the transom minor fairing issues won't show. 

Speaking of things on the transom I glued some 18mm ply samples to a piece of pine, then glassed it in on a fillet. This is the underneath side of what will be a small boarding/swimming platform on the transom. The transducer will go underneath out of the way, and the platform will both protect from damage, and deflect spray.

Also a photo of the sheer and chine UHMWPE strips. Quite happy with how they've turned out, but painting around them will be a pain. I did think about installing after paint, but I will always value strength over looks. I wasn't keen to glue them onto paint.
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All spray rails are on. Bought a big tube of G-flex at $180 for a litre. Also got the keel strip down. 3mm Aluminium extrusion there. Final fairing of the sides around the strips and painting before the flip. I’m thinking of a vinyl strip down the sides to cover and distract from any minor fairing issues and also for some colour.
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Ok. I’m done with sanding and fairing putty. It’s not absolutely perfect but it’s better than I thought I would get when starting this project. Two roller coats of epoxy over the whole hull. 140ml of epoxy and two spoons of Aluminium powder and one of cabosil in each batch.

Will use high build primer before painting, but this won’t happen outside anytime soon. Would rather paint in the garage if I can swing it. Still picking the odd insect or bit of grass and dust from the epoxy.

I looked into a vinyl wrap. 5.5m by 300mm was about $700. Thinking I’ll wrap the top above style line but will wait until paint to make that call.

Flip is next weekend all going well. Will get some colleagues from work to help.
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Big day. It’s a big boat looking at it for the first time like this.
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Four men and a boy lifted it and flipped no problem. 15minute job. I'd removed most of the frames before so there was only a few screws and supports to get out. Carried it out, turned it onto its side on a mat I had. Caught our breath, and then removed the jig and carried it back in. It's sitting on some blocks under its keel  where all the strength is. I'll whip up a cradle to support the sides today from the jig and then get to glassing the inside. 

Getting it out of the backyard will be a bit of a job. I may need to use rollers and winch
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Two of the back boxes are glassed. Two layers of 400g, overlapping up the side 100mm and stringers at least 60mm. Third layer of tape cut from the wife cloth on top to get up to specced glass thickness at the chine and stringer transition. Everything overlaps at the critical corners.

Happy with the job here. Few bubbles and none big. Took about 5 hours a box over half of which is prep and filleting. Would like to speed up a little bit to go at a steady pace.
Filled where the bulkhead will go so as not to sand too much glass there.


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Cool great to see it coming along - when are you hoping to hit the water?
Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.
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 Funny when I've built boats, I got heartily sick of every man and his dog asking when the launching date is especially from the  office types that have never built anything in their life!!
My stock reply was always " the day after it's finished"  which seemed to get the message across.
The second most commonly asked question was  " how many will it sleep"  as if it was some sort of advantage to put lots of bodies on board to make things nice and crowded and have lots   spewing everywhere. 

There are two types of people in the world: those that divide people into two types and those that don't.
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I have a lot of patience with those questions though. It shows interest so at least I know I’m not talking to myself. Anyway I don’t think I’ll make it to the water this year. Hopefully get the inside glassed and sealed before winter. Sole gunwales and cabin after that then probably all the fussy little details will take a year. Maybe 2022/23 summer maybe not.
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Built to plans it will sleep two on 1.8m berths. If that’s something that you would like to do on a 5metre boat. 😀

I’m still pondering those options at the moment.
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Allthough I haven’t commented on your build before I am really enjoying the build .
The outside of the hull is looking great .
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thanks - I think you are doing a great job and the build is part of the journey, though I would suggest trying to finish at the beginning of summer rather than the end, though I boat all year round Summer is nicer.
Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.
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It will be ready when it's ready. I'm just continuously plugging away when weather allows. 

 I've got the whole transom area glassed now, and filled the weave at the back where the bilge will be. Few more bubbles as I was a bit slow with the consolidation roller, but no show stoppers. I may inject a couple of them tomorrow. 

I'm about 2/5 through my third 24L kit of epoxy, theoretically I should be done by now, but there was never any chance of making the 60L allowance on the study plans. Even if I hadn't wasted over 10L on the transom rebuild, stringer screwups and glass and fairing boo boos, the fact I glassed the whole outside counts for a fair bit extra in both fairing and epoxy to wet the cloth. I'm hoping I'll get the whole bottom done on this kit, and then maybe one more to finish. The biaxial cloth wetouts are the most resin hungry bits, and I'm not too far off a 50% ratio plus weave filling and fillets. 
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Bit more work done on it yesterday and this morning. I've now glassed the whole back of the boat. Two layers everywhere, overlapping up onto the sides frames and stringers. An extra layer of tape cut at about 100mm from the wide cloth down the stringers and onto the bottom. The glass overlaps at the keel, so four layers there. Specification is for 3 layers of tape at keel, then the wide cloth overlapping on top so I'm a little under there. However the outside of the boat has glass as specced, then an 18mm pine skeg running the back 2.5m, which has two layers of tape over it. So in terms of overall strength it will be very strong at the keel. 




I also cut out the inside of Frame D. I really should have done that before gluing it in. Included a gap for the stringer cleats. These lay alongside the stringers and provide extra gluing surface to the sole. I will have them cut from untreated pine clears unbroken the length of the stringers for extra longitudinal strength. Then the sole is glued on top of stringers, frames and cleats to make a very stiff torisonal box. This should be stiffer and stronger than a typical glass boat, where often the liner does not contribute strength. 


 Forward you can see the next job. Spent some quality time with my grinder and 26grit discs to remove drips and lumps of epoxy. I'd a bit of a SNAFU with the original traverse splicing of the hull panels here and there was some voids in the join. Very bad on the bottom of a planing craft. Ground out the tape there, and anywhere there was a gap I opened a little vee. Filled with neat and then thickened epoxy and put a little tape on top. This will be reinforced with the  layers over it when the bottom glass goes on next weekend. 

I also used a putty mixed from chopped glass, microballoons and silica on the keel forward with a layer of tape on top. This overlaps with the skeg underneath so as the skeg tapers off the inside glass is slightly beefed up at the keel, along with the increasing angle between the hull panels it should be more than strong enough. 

Fill the weave today and then I'll finish glassing that section on Easter weekend.

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I've started giving some thought to foam vs airtight compartments vs compartments with breather holes and inspection hatches. The designer recommends two part foam, and many on the Bateau forums have used it successfully, but there's also some horror stories out there, often (not always) involving water getting in through unsealed holes and penetrations. 

My thoughts: 

I don't want fully foamed compartments below the waterline. I'd always be worried about water getting in there even if it is unlikely. Neither do I want nothing but airspaces. I'd be concerned about water getting in there and pressure from the air expanding and compressing with temperature changes working at weakpoints in the structure. Also unlikely but...
On the other hand hatches and limber holes can let water in as easily as out. In the worse case of a swamping or some kind of structural damage to the hull the boat could go under very fast without some flotation. 

So far this is what I'm settling on. I'll have several compartments in the hull under the floor. I'll use some of my already bought and glued together EVA foam pads (about 150L) to fill some of this, and some medium density pour foam (65kg/cubic metre) to fill strips near the stringers of the central underfloor compartment, supporting the sole and leaving the central area free for ventilation. Bung at the back of the central compartment, small plugs for the side compartments, with 2mm breather holes up at the bow end to equalise pressure. I'll use a hole saw to allow air to flow through the frames where needed. 

Above floor flotation will be down the side walls above the floor level so I can get my toes under, and also in semi watertight storage seats etc. Looking at about 300L of foam buoyancy which should be enough since the hull material floats, even with fibreglass skins. I just need to float the motor, battery and crew.  
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Popped into a local polyurethane foam maker and picked up a two part kit. 10 litres for about $150+ gst. Also some premade foam that was seriously cheap. About $30 for a 25mm sheet. The block foam is higher density at 95kg per cubic metre. At this stage planning to use it for flotation but considering use for seats, furniture and coolers. Underfloor will also stiffen and sound deaden a lot.

The pour foam is supposed to be closed cell but care must be taken in application and use. If the temperature and humidity are off and it’s not mixed well there can be issues. Also best not to let water or condensation contact the foam for long periods.

I’ll make up a test panel of the block foam: layer of epoxy and glass each side and test for stiffness and shear. It’s quite tough, it will withstand me jumping on it and won’t dent with finger pressure.

At the moment the plan is to glue some high density block foam to the hull with water channels between and pour foam on top as a sandwich. But still figuring it out.
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Wee bit more work done. Inside glass is complete up to Frame B. Two layers on the inside, overlapping onto stringers and frames where needed. An extra layer of tape on stringers, chines, and keel. It was a little creaky moving inside before, but as soon as the glass cures, it really stiffens up. No detectable movement when I step in the middle of a panel. 

I've been using a fair bit of epoxy, all the fillets overlaps and layers really eats it up. Each side 'box' has about 1.4L in it and roughly double for the middle. 

 I filled the hole drilled in the transom top right. This was intended to be used for draining the motorwell, but I'm going for a slightly different layout now I've got an outboard jackplate and aux bracket from the donor. Rear frame moved sternwards above the sole level and a little platform on top. I'll need a recess for the motor of course. 

I also drilled out the transom drain, and filled with epoxy. Redrilled at 25mm. Nice ring of epoxy all around and hopefully no possible path for water to the wood.

Photos to follow in a separate post as soon as I get onto my phone.



I'll run the 
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