Preparing the UHMWPE. Some will say that this can’t be glued at all. Well apparently it can. The plastic has very long chain molecules that don’t strongly interact so the surface needs to be modified. First I wiped with acetone to remove dust. Then sanded with 60 grit. This was a very quick sand. Then acetone again and on to the propane torch. The photo shows the simple kind I set up and a couple of test pieces.



Kissing the surface with a quick pass of the torch (about 30cm a sec) propels reactive atoms (single oxygen and others) which are supposed to break up some of the long chains and also replace some hydrogen atoms with oxygen which can electron bond to the glue molecules. The treatments max effect is supposed to last about 15 minutes so you need to get the glue on fast afterwards. Then I screwed this into the chine like before. The screws will stay as insurance, though the glue is supposed to bond with over 2000psi to HDPE with good treatment. I have a couple of samples one just sanded and one fully treated. I’ll test when fully cured.

Photo is of the chine. I went over afterwards to ensure there’s no gap under for spray to get in and peel it off.

Also a photo of the sheer and chine UHMWPE strips. Quite happy with how they've turned out, but painting around them will be a pain. I did think about installing after paint, but I will always value strength over looks. I wasn't keen to glue them onto paint.

Ok. I’m done with sanding and fairing putty. It’s not absolutely perfect but it’s better than I thought I would get when starting this project. Two roller coats of epoxy over the whole hull. 140ml of epoxy and two spoons of Aluminium powder and one of cabosil in each batch.

Will use high build primer before painting, but this won’t happen outside anytime soon. Would rather paint in the garage if I can swing it. Still picking the odd insect or bit of grass and dust from the epoxy.

I looked into a vinyl wrap. 5.5m by 300mm was about $700. Thinking I’ll wrap the top above style line but will wait until paint to make that call.

Flip is next weekend all going well. Will get some colleagues from work to help.

Four men and a boy lifted it and flipped no problem. 15minute job. I'd removed most of the frames before so there was only a few screws and supports to get out. Carried it out, turned it onto its side on a mat I had. Caught our breath, and then removed the jig and carried it back in. It's sitting on some blocks under its keel  where all the strength is. I'll whip up a cradle to support the sides today from the jig and then get to glassing the inside. 

Cool great to see it coming along - when are you hoping to hit the water?

I have a lot of patience with those questions though. It shows interest so at least I know I’m not talking to myself. Anyway I don’t think I’ll make it to the water this year. Hopefully get the inside glassed and sealed before winter. Sole gunwales and cabin after that then probably all the fussy little details will take a year. Maybe 2022/23 summer maybe not.

Allthough I haven’t commented on your build before I am really enjoying the build .
The outside of the hull is looking great .

It will be ready when it's ready. I'm just continuously plugging away when weather allows. 

I've started giving some thought to foam vs airtight compartments vs compartments with breather holes and inspection hatches. The designer recommends two part foam, and many on the Bateau forums have used it successfully, but there's also some horror stories out there, often (not always) involving water getting in through unsealed holes and penetrations. 

Wee bit more work done. Inside glass is complete up to Frame B. Two layers on the inside, overlapping onto stringers and frames where needed. An extra layer of tape on stringers, chines, and keel. It was a little creaky moving inside before, but as soon as the glass cures, it really stiffens up. No detectable movement when I step in the middle of a panel.