Thought I would post a bit on how to draw the frames as there might be some interested. Old school boat building has a table of offsets, which need to be lofted full size. That is because the designer draws the plans on paper, and when scaled up 30x the width of the pencil can be inches wide!
Modern plans are done with CAD and the lofting is done on the PC to far more precision than required for this method. In my previous dinghy I had some gaps of over 10mm to fill with epoxy putty. No issues other than cost and weight. I am aiming to do a better job this time. 3mm (1/8th") is the precision of the plans. No more is needed.
To draw a frame start be drawing the baseline and Centrelines on a sheet of ply. The centre line is the centre of the boat (vertical pencil line) the baseline is (in this case!) the top of the solem marked in red vivid. All measurements are taken from the CL and BL unless stated. It is IMPERATIVE that these lines are perpendicular! I measured against the edge of the sheet multiple times over the line.
For tools I used a rafter set square, a fabric tape measure and a standard builders tape. The fabric tape measure is best for quick checks of distances along the sheet. One can use another sheet of ply as a straight edge and right angle if needed. The edges should be very close to square from the factory, but always check.
This frame is E (last frame in front of transom). It will form the motorwell bulkhead, reinforcing the transom and preventing swamping from waves over the stern.
I measured left of the CL 822mm then directly down 70mm. Drew an X in pencil. Then up 641mm from BL and left 1015mm of CL. Repeat for the other side. Draw in the boundary in pencil then over in vivid so I can see it more easily when cutting. I found in my previous build that when holding something that will have your fingers off in a second you don't want to be losing the cutting line.
The top of the frame has a slight camber (curve) in it. This is a parabolic shape drawn by putting a batten through three points shown on the plans. The curve is for the side decks later. A batten is a really effective way to draw a nice fair curve. I'm using an Aluminium flat bar on edge from Mitre10, but anything that will bend with little effort in a fair way will work. Hold the batten down on three points and draw the line in pencil. The flat bar also makes a very useful and cheap straight edge. It will end up on the keel or rubrail later on.
Easy as, just take your time and measure measure measure.