Buying a new trailer - brands? Alloy or galv?

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Pcj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb 2024 at 5:16pm
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Titanium
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Originally posted by out2sea out2sea wrote:

Resurrecting an old thread. I'm in the same situation as the original poster. I have a 20 year old trailer that I suspect is beyond economical and safe repair.

The question is; What has changed other than prices since 2017 in regards to galv. vs Alloy? 

Trailer is for a 6.5m Rayglass 2150. So sitting on its original Hoskings trailer. 

The $8800 quote for a new Hoskings by OP is looking incredibly good now, thanks inflation..

Current Approx. Prices:

Galv. $13k base + $750 for SS rotor upgrade for NZ made. Waiting on other quotes.

Alloy: Spitfire: $13.5k Any Experience? I don't see to many around in NZ 
         Ally Trailers: $18.5k 

Given its unlikely a new Galv trailer will last 20 years again given the quality of galvanising has dropped is the additional cost of alloy worth it? 
I got best trailer last yr and for price nothing really compares,ring in the morning and was ready by afternoon. Everything is adjustable.             https://besttrailers.co.nz/product/105/bst680dr-suits-20-21ft-boats/
"Times up"
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote krow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb 2024 at 8:35pm
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My son has a normal 8x4 trailer from Best and It's dam good, very well made and Galv is still good. Not in the salt but I've seen a Best boat trailer up here and it was made very well and had more wobble rollers than the equivalent. Also Galv was in mint condition. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote letsgetem Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2024 at 8:29am
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I have a 4 year old Figlass trailer, and the galvanising is badly corroding. Obviously the galv standard is terrible. It goes in the sea. Incidentally, I complained to Figlass, and they werent interested. Also - I made a warranty claim for something else, and Figlass has just ignored it. ie 3 communications through the retailer and no reply!! Hows that for terrible service. Pity as otherwise their boats are good.

Best trailers - I would be interested in hearing about the galvanising standard on a trailer that goes in the sea?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Bounty Hunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2024 at 9:15am
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couple of things you could do to increase the longevity of the galv trailer frame.

request a double dip/ 600-weight galv during manufacturing - get the cert as proof

request drain holes every 1500mm in the frame - use rubber bungs to plug the holes and wash it internally regularly - and then remove plugs annually and internally spray with cavity wax type product

the other question to ask - how long do you think youll keep the boat - if a trailer lasts 10 or 20years - does it matter if youre likely to sell in 5?
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Best trailers are bolted together.little welding.channeks are open .no end caps.pkenty drains holes to flush out.With my set up.I have to put a rope around winch post too slow boat down or hold winch handles as boat just slides off.Retrieval lights just touch water and winch on.dint have to submerge to axles.bearinf buddies fitted and I grease/check 3 monthly.no sign of rust in 12 months but springs could do with a spray..4k v 6.5k get what you pay for but no waiting on stock
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote lawabidingpoacher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2024 at 3:51pm
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Any galvanising is only an anode . It's there to deteriorate before the steel . Once you can see deterioration or any rust etc , it's time to blast and redo. The last trailer I built I painted with a two pot paint . 10 years later and it's probably no worse than galve ....my 2 cents worth !
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote out2sea Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2024 at 7:57pm
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It does make me wonder why more galv trailers aren't made with U section or I section steel to stop the salt water pooling inside.

All box section trailers I have seen have rusted from the inside out which is certainly the case with mine. It makes me think the previous owner never flushed it. It has always been a part of the boats wash down for me.

I see some manufacturers offer flushing ports as standard now but it doesn't seem to do the cross members well.

Alternatively the spitfire trailer is anodised and hardened aluminium which is bolted together so no welds to crack and looks to be I section so easy to rinse and nowhere for salt to build up.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote lawabidingpoacher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2024 at 8:16pm
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In the past with box section, I have after completely sealing off , drilled 10mm holes and partially filled with waste oil , the spot welded a plug back in. None have ever come back to me
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2024 at 8:41pm
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Have to say my Voyager trailer is a bit basic, but all the internals can be flushed out fairly easily. I'm no engineer, but I wonder why trailers aren't made with sealed box sections? 
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Originally posted by MB MB wrote:

Have to say my Voyager trailer is a bit basic, but all the internals can be flushed out fairly easily. I'm no engineer, but I wonder why trailers aren't made with sealed box sections? 
Can't hot dip if sealed. Could explode blasting hot molten Galv everywhere. 
Also without a proper pressure test and positive pressure all the time water may get in and not be able to get out. 
I really doubt being supper pedantic with wash down at home extends the life by much. A fair bit of the salt buildup is while it's parked at the ramp and unlikely to be able to remove the semi dried salt from the internals. 
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Originally posted by krow krow wrote:

Originally posted by MB MB wrote:

Have to say my Voyager trailer is a bit basic, but all the internals can be flushed out fairly easily. I'm no engineer, but I wonder why trailers aren't made with sealed box sections? 
Can't hot dip if sealed. Could explode blasting hot molten Galv everywhere. 
Also without a proper pressure test and positive pressure all the time water may get in and not be able to get out. 
I really doubt being supper pedantic with wash down at home extends the life by much. A fair bit of the salt buildup is while it's parked at the ramp and unlikely to be able to remove the semi dried salt from the internals. 
Just like flushing motor,1/2hr trip home.The hot motor cooling on way home,doubt on flushing all salt is removed,same for trailers/brakes.Sitting at park bay while fishing,damage occurring?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb 2024 at 8:08am
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Thanks Krow, I thought there might be a reason for it. 

I get that most damage is probably done after launching the boat. There's a guy at my OBC who flushes his trailer after launching. That's a step too far even for me. I want to get fishing!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote DIY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb 2024 at 4:41pm
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I have a galv trailer made of ‘C’ section and after nearly 5 years it’s looking good, just some rust on nuts and bolts etc. it gets used a lot and I’m not too fussy when it comes to washing down. The axle is box and I can’t really get much water into the holes to flush it out. I figured if I need to replace the axle eventually, I can live with that.
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