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Boat clears advice

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    Posted: 02 Feb 2019 at 3:20pm
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After taking a a pounding out the west coast today and getting soaked continuosly it’s time to invest in some boat clears and after some advice.

1. In your view what’s the best configuration, 2 single separate windows or a single zip configuration which can open the whole front.

2.
also what’s the approximate cost for a set of front and side clear to be made.


3. Anything else to consider or good tips before getting this done?

Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2019 at 3:32pm
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Need to know what the boat looks like to really comment. I prefer clears that open a smaller area in front of the skippers face for bad weather or roll up completely in hot weather. Often done as a single front window with a smaller zipped section cut into it in front of the helm. Can only do that though if the boat design will allow. Next preference is two clears so that the skipper can be open while the passenger side is closed. Last choice is a simple single roll up window.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ohsif Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2019 at 3:38pm
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Single upside down U opening with 2 sliders would be my preference from a practical perspective. Means when it is open gravity makes sure it stays open. Two sliders means you can open just the top right hand corner to give the helmsman an unobstructed view while everyone else stays warm and dry.  
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Dunwurkn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2019 at 4:02pm
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Dunwurkn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 2019 at 4:02pm
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6m trailer boat with windscreen and targa top
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This is ours.. The orginal that came with the boat yrs ago was near dead....and took a bit of time out with it to figure out what would work well over all... plus ideas and non ideas from being in other boats.

What would I change.. well did..when opening up would theoretically  clip back over the top with velcro.
 Was a ***** to do so under way, and was not long before the velcro broke down under the sun.



I can remove the side clears, or simply fold them most of the way back, up towards the front..let off the rear tie downs and travel WoT nps due to a couple extra stays inside.
All of the front panels and 2 cnr panels can be unzipped together or individually and clipped back on the underside of the roof part of the bimini... the clips they attache to I can have the smaller helm section slightly up part or all the way.. depends on the weather , cold winds etc.
 Removing the side clears. and rear stays, and a couple easy remove solid stays/ framing, the whole bimini can be dropped on and over the front screen.

Clears are quick polished after each 3 or 4 trips with meguiars quick detail car polish.. takes about 3 or 4 mins, both sides. They are now 6 or 7 yrs old, permanently up, and boat stored outside, and still clear as.
 Do not let ppl use aerosol sunscreens.. destories clears.. and if use cream must wash hands, leaves bad permanent finger prints
 Never grease clears, roll or better still hand on a wall

 Bimmini seams , the areas where canvas backs the clears after every 5 or 6 trips get a very quick light spray with gone in  30 seconds.. stops algae forming behind the clears and stop seams etc rotting... I also mist spray squabs, carpets..bilges etc anywhere bad smells or algae or mould may , or has started to form.
 Canvas top.. started using canvas water proofer stuff...as with other cloth panels around the boat...last 5 or 6 yrs 4 or 5 times a yr a good spray of elcheapo super cheap, 3 for a $10 tyre shine.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Dunwurkn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb 2019 at 8:13pm
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Thanks for the feedback so far some good stuff there.

Now everyone I talk to I’m the last few days have said clears are great boat in rough weather a lot of water can still get through and get wet.

Is their standard or is there a design which is better than others which is more water tight?

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote RogueOne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb 2019 at 9:56pm
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My clears are press-dome to windscreen so limited water proof-ness for large waves over the bow - up the windscreen still gets under, but that setup prevents all other rain getting in.

Easy to get on/off so happy to try and avoid waves up the front.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Big -Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb 2019 at 10:07pm
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There is probably no way to stop water being driven up under your clears, unless you use some really fancy extrusions or something . So it is just about minimising, keeping the worst out.
you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 2019 at 10:53am
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Mine are the hinges lug thingies.
I went for those because easier to attach unattach along the bottom than domes.
 Yes hit a good wave over the bow, and a little water comes up underneath... just choose where to mount the sounder etc.
 I have added adhesive rubber sponge between the lug catches which near eliminates that run up the screen..

 If goes right over the top or rains I get a few drops come down at the bottom of the zippers on the skippers window.. I think thats because its often open, and hooked back under the bimini it sort of has set a curve at the bottom over the yrs.
 If did it again I would take the bottom of the clears and zippers just below the top frame rail of the screen. Would mean a wider bottom seam area on the clears which most would cover the top rail.

 I practice, if chops up rather bad, the water in the skippers window becomes hard to see out...
As I can unzip upwards any nearly any distance I like and hook the window back, I open it a 2 to 3 " to get a clear view forward... yep the rain comes in, and a wave will crash thru every now and then.. and I can get wet.
 But I can also see ahead easy.
And these occasions usually happen 99% of the time on the way home...
And I think windscreen wipers on clears is not a practical option.. even thu have given it considerable thought Big smile
 I do think it possible to mount on the top frames of the bimini.. the sweep has to be limites between zippers.
 The cost , effort over the number time seas big enough to warrant it is just not there..
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote letsgetem Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2019 at 6:45pm
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Im thinking about getting a canopy for my Figlass firestar. Many, no MOST canopies I see around, appear to me to have deficiencies.
One thing Im wondering about - how to make sure that the height works - including,
- can stand forward to drive without hitting the roof - I think if the top front clear is at the same angle as the bottom fixed screen, there wont be enough head room.
- how far back should the roof go, without obstructing overhead rod movement.
 
I am thinking of making a dummy frame in wood, to try different shapes.
 
Any pearls of wisdom?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 8:37am
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All that is what I did
 Except I starte with the seats and seat pedestals...in the right place for ME.. ie my reach to the helm, when turns just misses controls etc..position to give best room.. both seats

I am thinking of making a dummy frame in wood, to try different shapes.

Then its a simply a marker pen and and tape measure.. I took the height of our tailest son for head clearance
1/ at  helm and 2nd m seat...and distance moving left and right... this also determined the angle back of screen to a certain degree 
2/ the distance back from the screen for back edge.. and again height
3/ The area the side clear cover, and fold back . or rather forward..where the frame mounts and sits.

Then with all that marked when on the water check it works, espec the frame and side clears...
 You also mark on the top of the screen where the zips come down to divide front clears.. espec the section in front of the helm
 THEN go to your upholsterer with measurements and the VELT pen markings  with little notes beside what they are for.. and an over all pic of something very similar concept.


 Once thats sorted and bimini made while out on the water, with a felt tip pen, mark position of rod holders.. those rod fishes from, their angles etc  AND those where you ring a fish in , drop rod in the well positioned  holder ...
 And the holders convenient to drop rod in next to bait board to re bait..
 And those positioned back out of the way, that just cleat the bimini to store rods

Confirm out on the water every position down to the last 5mm before committing...and back on land.. eg store holders just close enough sinkers/ reel handles dont foul the reel / rod next to them.

Its all called " work hard at being lazy"

PS I dont have or need a rocket launcher.

My stowed rods fit along the the top and bottom sides of the deck..  doubled sided velcro on the screws that hold the side panels on.
 And from the floor , angles from the bottom of the helm (and same other side) up the bimini frame and just tips at the rear top side edge of the bimini  another 2 (4 in total) longer soft bait rods are held in place with double sided velcro
 Their are also another 4 in the cabin for short rods.

So seat positions (and heights).. and confirm in real life on the water.. espec the front edge of the skippers seat.. stand lean back against.. and install

Then bimini.. and install
 Then rod holders



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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Muzzfishing Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 9:42pm
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Can you use any car polish on clears. Would like to give my two a birthday.
    A Good Skipper Keeps the water on the outside of the boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote pjc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2019 at 11:23pm
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Brasso ,works on plastic headlight covers,have used to reduce scratches on perspex windows and used on plastic screen on spray dodger,no it doesnt scratch but need to remove all trace of salt first,have used some of the cleaners from marine shops but didnt work as well as brasso.
water water everywhere,how many fish does it hold?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2019 at 8:30am
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Can you use any car polish on clears. Would like to give my two a birthday.

 The office advice is  wash only with soap and water .. no detergents...only use the CRC or meguries polish designed for clears

I have washed mine with water to get salt off.. avoiding the detergent (GT18) that I spray foam on and let soak before washing the boat down.
 The sdown side is most places have a high mineral content in the water... leaving mineral circles..
 This can be avoid simply by dry off with a towel.. clears and windows.
Polish.. Quality polish helps protect surfaces and makes it harder for stuff (dirt) to stick... BUT acrylics are very sensitive to most  polishes.. or at least thats what I have been told, and have not been prepared to find out.
Around 5 ot 6 yrs back I started to use meguires car quick detail spray polish.. mainly because for best results one used as little as possible, and is very quick.. on off.
The clears and windows.. approx 3 to 5mins..after every 3 to 4 trips..rinsed with water to get salt off each trip .
We do between 25 and 38 trips a yr..
The boat has the bimmni and clears up 100% of the time..
 1st couple yrs out in the sun.
next 3 or 4 under shade cloth but still afternoon sun.
 Last 6 months in the sun.
Other than a couple finger prints from sunscreen in a cnr...a few minor scratches.. they are still as clear as when put up.

The orginal bimmni was rather stuffed and clears had a little more than started to cloud.
 I tried a few things to clean/ clear them up at different levels of 'aggression'
From car cutting compounds, polishes, solvents, mix of these...hand rubbing to machine polishing with my professional car cutting / polishing machine...nothing really brought them  back to a good presentation and / or level.

Acrylic windows.. yes can be cut back.. I would not attempt by hand.. way too much work even for a little 2" x 2" spot.
 Machine.. and very careful, dont get ANY heat in.
 It only removes the top surface of cloudiness, most tend to be rather deep over the yrs doesnt remove 'shatter' lines/ cracks

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote terrafish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2019 at 9:36am
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On my solid acrylic/Perspex windows I use crc repo extracut cream polish. I was about to replace them a few years ago and had some so gave it a go. Went from Waikato fog visibility, to damn near crystal clear. Didn't need much elbow grease at all, gives reasonable water reppellency, and removed a lot of minor blemishes. Do it couple times a year now and they almost like new. Don't know how it would go on clears tho, would have to try a small test area. Doesn't stop fogging on crisp mornings.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2019 at 10:35am
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Think you will find once you have the clear vision back, routine maintenance with a good compatible polish will be all u need.
 And if surface clean then then will also not be so prone to fogging up
 Same goes for a clean and polished car inside windscreen surface
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote spear junkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 8:48pm
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I've just bought a boat with dulled clears and quite a few sunscreen marks on them. Did a small test with toothpaste and it seemed to come up pretty good. Will be getting some proper fine polishing compound to do them all in the near future.
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