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Annual maintenance boat/ Trailer

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    Posted: 08 Apr 2021 at 3:47pm
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Titanium
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Location: Sth Auckland
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Come end March /April its time for trailer/boat check over maintance, plus last couple trips dropped about 4 or 5L out of the bung after high pressure wash down at sea.
Get to that later.
 Maintance: Trailer
 Jacked up wheels, no play top/ bottom  side to side Spin up the wheels , no rumble. Check wheel nuts are all able to be 'used'

Around 7 or 8 yrs ago I sanded back all surface rust spots, etched, POR 15 ,and lanocoated as maintenance.
Well a few spots have a little bubble now.. but over all impressed how the POR15 has held up.
So time to do again..
The U bolts are good but couple of the plates suspect.
So drop off the axles, sand back the surface rust spots .. axles and chassis (in the process of doing now.
Will put in new U bolts and plates.. re coat the surface rust repairs.
Bend back a guard I bent just cliping a post because of inconsiderate parking at a ramp a few weeks back.
And remove the keel roller bolts, clean or replace the plastic bushes, re grease with non petroleum grease and replace. This is generally around 5 to 6 yrs.
I usually do this at the ramp.. drop the boat in the water.

I have lifted, chocked the boat up about 2" clear on the trailer

Everything else is good.
 
Boat: the brass rear section of the keel strip is off as its the screws where the water is seeping into the bulge. I did the front section yrs ago..(an old thread on that) This rear section has been done by previous owners as a patch with some sort of filler, rather than a full proper fix... Credit thu its lasted a good 10 plus yrs.
 Lift the center floor, check the 150L tank mounting bolts.
Take out all the squabs etc foam up and water blast.
 Water blast out all the bulges.

 And the hull annual check.. time to dremmel out a few gelcoat chips here and there.. And re gelcoat them.

Boats dont usually sink, cars dont run off the road.
Hulls split cause never get checked/ maintained.
 Wheels fall off cause never get checked. Wink

Its also cheaper to attend to surface rust etc when it still is, than replace complete axles or whole trailers.

Its not rocket science or requires a PhD




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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MacSkipper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr 2021 at 4:31pm
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Titanium
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Good on you, I will be doing my annual service boat and trailer in July when WOF due.

Usually pick a few windy dry days to do over.
Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.
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Wheel nuts and studs starting to show a bit of rust here.

Take them off, wire buff, rust kill and then what product to protect threads? 

I've got my father's old torque wrench so may as well use that - what torque should we be looking at?

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2021 at 7:30am
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Titanium
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If rusted up like that, they will also be just under the nuts , between them and the hub...weak and tend to snap.
Also Threads are a science in themselves.. over torque dont grip as well as distorts the threads  ...lots stuff.

Best bet , if get to that stage.. replace.

I then put a bit of blue triple gaud marine grease on threads then torque up...specs usually around the 65/ 75 lbs .. if you know the wheel and stud size google the actual specs.
Torque up then use the wheel wrench to get a good feel of how tight it is .

After every trip U give wheel nuts, bolts..keel rollers a squirt of a CRC type product...do not do the winch bushes with a petrolrum type product.. it has plastic bushes.

Also when all finished a MIST spray of lanocoate under the  outboard cowl.. the trim area.. NOT any anodes.
 A good coat.back of wheel hubs springs etc.
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Threads id go copper coat or Nickel anti seize. Res q steel also good, be careful when torque up lubed threads, if you look at a thread torque chart you will notice a massive difference in settings between dry and lubed threads.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr 2021 at 9:16am
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Titanium
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Joined: 14 Oct 2013
Location: Sth Auckland
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Yes copper / nickel is the ultimate way to go.Thumbs Up

It is easy to miss , details like this.. stuff one sort of does without thinking after 50 odd yrs...
 I never had any in my workshop some yrs, no decades back ..tubes of the marine evinrude blue and red (bearing) grease, inox non petroleum food grade.  So used the blue grease and maintenance , has work 100% well.

But if at the local supply store, know service coming up.. get the copper ..best practice

With lube on threads, there is less friction when torquing up. This means the torque wrench that 'measures' the friction (rather than the load on the threads) will 'click' after the spec torque.
 General rule of thumb is go bottom end of the spec if lube the threads.

Wheel nut torque is extremely important and something so over looked.. even by professional tyre shops.
Its such an important safetly issue, that I know one chain of shops, many yrs ago , in employ contracts included all wheel nut must be finished with a torque wrench.. never the rattle gun


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote kimber7wsm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2021 at 6:38am
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Res-Q-Steel is the ultimate. 

The others work, but not as good.

Buy a small tub, while expensive it will last years if you only use in on boat and trailer maintenance. I also use it on my towball and things like that.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2021 at 10:58am
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Titanium
Titanium


Joined: 14 Oct 2013
Location: Sth Auckland
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Points: 11375
Res Q steel is a non hardening protection, in many ways similar to lanocate (lanolin) and would not be surprised if it is not also based on lanolin.
 It is not designed to replace galv or galve /paint/ por15 type protective 'skins'
 It is , like lanocoate , CRC equivalent to be a seriously stable protective cover over these 'skins.

And yes as that 'added' protection espec on modern galvs , where areas the galv has been scraped, around fixtures (nuts bolts etc) these products are worth more than their weight.

OK axles out, hit the rust with grinder back to good steel, or good galve or good POR15...
 Where por15 has failed is tiny crevice in the welding in the center of the axles.. tiny spot of remaining rust worked away under the por15 .
 Which is why when clean back to good metal .. it must be sealed withing 20 mins.. before any microscopic rust forms.

This time Im going a little different to por15.

Back to good clean metal. (or galv etc) rust kill with a etch primer.. and 2nd coat after 24 hrs.
 The the high spec galv paint .. couple thin coats , let cure for couple hrs (as per instructions) then another couple thin coats

Same on the bits and pieces around the trailer, like the welds that hold the mud guards on the chassis.

The boat hull, every chip in the gel coat have dremmeled out, light sand around , ready for re filling with gelcoat.
Not many and biggest about a old 50c coin.. they are mostly air bubble under the gelcoat when the hull was originally laid up at the factory in the mold.

Source a 2.5m length of new keel brass strip from Burnsco yesterday..
 Might get into a bit more grinding on the trailer today.
 Axles have had 2nd coat rust kill ecth on.. will cold galv when ready to do the little bits around the trailer

OH .. important..
 When came to dropping U bolts, wheel nuts.. because I had put a little quality marine , evinrude blue triple guard grease on the threads last time ( about 8 yrs ago) .. even thu the U bolt plates need replacing... every bolt un wound as if I had put them on yesterday...
 This is the "work hard at being lazy" thing



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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr 2021 at 7:20pm
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Titanium
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Joined: 14 Oct 2013
Location: Sth Auckland
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Hmm read the label on the Lanacote .. has got it out to finish trailer. It says " this product now replaces Resq Steel"

And.. it says ideal for long term (decades) threads, bolts wire guides etc , even for marine conditions
So using grease on threads...going to use the lanacote this time on them all..

What with rain, time.. and a couple minor issues added to the list thought would have well finished by now.

Keel screw holes all drilled out resin compressed in and Doweled in . New brass keel strip, screws.. Done
 All chips just superficial.. dremmel , new gelcoat and sanded flat. Done
Brought Renovator few yrs back, If rem that have one.. it is ideal ..Thumbs Up  makes blocking small areas  easy as.
Axles removed
 Axles removed, all surface rust axles, chassis, gaurds etc ground back to good steel, etch withing 10 mins of exposure, painted with a high end epoxy galv paint, as per tin instructions exactly.. Done
 Rollers removed, cleaned, bushes all good, re greased (non mineral grease as attacks plastic bushes) Done
 I dont know why the need for stainless roller shafts.. mine are just galved bolts...would have done lot use and been in for a good 12 to 15 yrs plus.
Painted lanacote on springs, axles, back hubs, welds, only 2 coats.  Will do the lot once dont have to touch those parts (chassis rails cross members) again.
 U bolts and nuts all good.. replaced the plates thu.. ok.. but only ok, not new. Lanacoted all these as re assembled axles. Wheels on studs lanacoted.

Someone will have picked up.. "how can replace keel strip, re drill /sst screw holes  do the rollers with the boat on the trailer?"

The trailer is up on axles stands.. so wheels axles etc come off
Then the boat slid back enough to give access to the keel strip.
This is done with a large tie down strop from bow eye back to a trailer cross member.
The jack goes under the bow, and lifts the boat about 4"" above the keel rollers.. Axle stand with timbers to spread load.
Then the jack lifts the stern under the transom, off the rear roller, up off the side banks of rollers, Then chocked  4"each side with timbers on the side rollers.

 So trailer done, keel, gelcoat chips done, take weight on the jack under the center of the transom... lift of the chock timbers each side.. go round checking everything and notice  gelcoat cracking on the rear strack on one side once the timbers where removes and could see.
Bugga

So couple days ago, out with grinder take away gelcoat.. most just cracks, but maybe what looks like a crack in the glass behind in one spot about 5mm...so this and area around gets ground back to good solid glass...Filled with chop stand. 1st layer cured, sanded back a little, the 2nd /3rd layer.
 Tomorrow, sand high spots, and start laying gelcoat in.
 These are just 5 min jobs each day.
and gelcoat next day, block back following day.
Weather permitting.
Then its just lowering the boat off the chocks/ axle stands onto the cleaned/ greases rollers, pull boat back up.
 Finish final paint of all accessible parts on the trailer and chassis with lanacote.
 Drop trailer off the 'stands
 Done.. by end of the week.Wink


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote kimber7wsm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr 2021 at 6:30am
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Hmm, interesting my Lanocote label has no reference to res-q-steel on it. Having used res-q-steel on commercial fishing boats, container ships etc and seen the results of it's on fittings that were put there 20-30 years ago, I know which I would prefer to use.

Each to there own. Personally I think Lanocote would be better than grease.

I wish the previous owner of my boat had maintained their trailer the way you do. I've just had to build a new trailer for a 7.2m boat, not a cheap exercise. For what it's worth to galvanize it, cost $667. My plan is to strip it in 7-8years time and re-galv.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ofthesea Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr 2021 at 10:57am
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Just note some places no longer re-galv due to safety issues and liability
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote kimber7wsm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr 2021 at 6:37am
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Didn't know that. I sent some of the old wobbly's in with the trailer frame, that had no rust and got them re-galv'd rather than buy new as they were in good condition. They didn't say a thing, so figured it was no problem.

That was Perry's in Hamilton. Like you say other companies may not.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr 2021 at 10:01am
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Titanium
Titanium


Joined: 14 Oct 2013
Location: Sth Auckland
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Points: 11375
Got 1st couple layers gelcoat on the glassed patches yesterday, and most of the trailer 'painted ' in lanacote.
Was expecting drinks at m8s around 4 ish.. but got the hurry up around 2:30.. so..
Was on my back under trailer / boat 'painting'...So stuff was running down my hands arms.
Some semi dried, tried soaps detergents, bit turps.. ended up degreaser, and even so my skin feels has a coating this morning.

These are rather old packs of Lanacote.


 Have known a couple guys over the years get trailers 'rejected, for re galv.. In saying that the condition of some chassis rails and welds where suspect.. on one, even before sand blasting.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2021 at 10:42am
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Titanium
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Most of this is 8 to 10yr maintenance...if it has been done before.
Anyway sprayed lanacote up into the chassis rails yesterday.. The 'undersealer' air sprayer with just a short (10") lance blew lanacote full length, and then I blew it back from the other end.
In retrospect it would have been far easier to use it for most of the trailer on lower air pressure.

Couple gelcoat shatters under the hull , ground back to good solid glass chop stand/ resin then re gelcoated... only rough blocking back..
 Boat dropped down onto trailer rollers ,
 axles back in,
 trailer dropped down on the ground wheels on
Side roller banks and wobblies up front all readjusted so boat sits even (+- 3mm each side from chassis rails) And rollers positioned correctly, so can only just turn by hand without boat strapped down.

Removed all the items (except engine) attached to transom.. transducer , lights, water pickup for washdown pump... and dremmeled out any old holes that have been done over the decades like the removed .
 The lights etc re packed with dowels /resin.. new screws and marine sealant.
 Also removed the bung port, and internal tube (I broke it was so solid set in there (prevents water from bulge getting into transom) cleaned out.. Turned down a new one out of a irrigation fitting (could find anywhere to buy one) Lot sealant rubbed in and replaced.
The transom is soild as the day the boat was made Thumbs Up

Now hull, transom wiped down with damp rag and rust kill (with No additives) phosphoric acid.. this removes brown stains and most other marks including dock rubbing.

So other than topping off the 150L fuel tank.. boat is ready to go.

Thu scabs need to be taken out, foamed up and water blasted clean..
Everything else taken out, toilet spare anchor, blow up raft, cooker, spare prop and washers, nuts, split pins, paddles...And then foam up cabin /deck everything then water blast everywhere.

Also after around 8 yrs and lot use the material on the side deck panels where we lean against and fish have got a bit thread bare... its only that rubber backed night curtain material...brought on special.. Its lasted way longer than expected.  So could just replace the material that end of the panel or whole panel....( brought more than enough yrs ago was so cheap to do so)  or with some grey vynal I picked up cheap a while back that nearly matched the seats.

These are the new panels (re made and bit of re design) and scabs I recovered yrs ago.. all up with 2X required curtain  material

This is the worn section.. yeah was a busy day..top edge of the panel, its a bit more thread bare top right 1/2, now


If wondering about the wood floor panels.
 The one under the chair.. Hit a wave that stood up in front, was leaning back against it, boat dropped and partly pulled the front base bolt.. so bit of over kill that also sorted the height of the top edge of the windscreen dead in line of sight.
And center panel.. replaced the 130L cause only could get 80L in due to only vent at stern end.. and $150 for new 150L (plus 2 original transom Commander chrome rod holders) Sits bit higher And send height issues), with vents both ends so can get 150Lin at the pump nps.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 May 2021 at 6:18pm
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Titanium
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Pullede the scabs out and side panels, scrubbed and blasted. Drying for the next few days on the enclosed deck of the house.
Decided to re cover the worn side panels.. well the stern end, rest ok still.
So they are laying on the spa pool cover, ready to cut material glue staple. Most properly Monday as tomorrow is Steel And wheels Day.
Cabin, decks bulges, under seat storage all washed , water blasted, and everything , including the canvas of the Bimini and seat seams, walls, crevices etc sprayed with gone in 30 secs.. Stops mold green , smells etc.

Looks like bit of crap weather coming in Sunday evening, winds rest of the week, then good dose rain thurs Frid and possible fish next Sat.
Thumbs Up

Even so, boat is ready to hook up, launch and go for a fish..
Anchors, spare props , ropes, etc all back ready in the boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MacSkipper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2021 at 7:08am
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Titanium
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Good job steps.

Doing annual check over in June - just replaced winch was 350kg rated POS - no bushings and due to wear between shaft and housing gears were slipping bought by previous owner only lasted 2 years...replaced with 500kg rating one from Trail com - is a lot sturdier and has bushings.

One item on my trailer maintenance list in June is remove wheels and swap over as one side gets sun (have just made a cover for that side), check bearings and grease wheel nuts etc so they will come off if needed for a puncture.
Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2021 at 9:05am
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Titanium
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What ratio?  and a wide or narrow spool?
Right ratio and can pull up with a drill, thu you have a wobble not a keel roller trailer so a toss up between getting drill, using putting away and the time for a short light turn of the winch.

Wide spools take far less effort to wind up as the spool fills... or only have enough on the spool to what is needed, plus 1/2 meter.

Rem do not lube the bushes with petroleum based oils/ greases. They eventually attack the plastic bushes.

Back in the day, ppl used to hang potato sacks over the tyres to protect from the sun. I often wonder about this when visiting caravan/ camping parks.. even the over summer parked units dont have wheels covered..

This and excellent point Mac

Most of the stuff above is 8/10yr maintenance..
Bearings, wheel nuts rollers, lanacoate etc are 6 and 12 month stuff.
Clean up surface rust, longer term, if has been done before.. if not done means structural welding or replace. Gelcoat chips etc 12/ 12 month... more serious like transom screws, remove bung re seal etc 8/10yr.

Hmm adding up cost
3 tins quaity galv paint $75
Keel strip $75
Resin / chop stand $35
Gelcoat $25
About 750ml solid lanacote (in shed stock) dont know $30?
1 X  4" grinding disc in shed stock)  $3 ?
1 x sanding disk (in shed) $3 ?
500mm 10mm dowel (in shed) $5?
GT18 5L $25 ?  only used 10% if that.

 9/16 Staples to re upholster side panels (in shed)
Cloth, got spare when originally did the whole boat.. Total was $112 back then. $15 ?

So $250.. $300 tops..
little bit of time, maybe 2x that sourcing replacing new trailer.
Bit of maintenance certainly leaves a lot of cash left over for a lot of fuel.. As in 1000s of dollars of fuel.
 Then throw in peace of mind when towing and out on the boat...


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MacSkipper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2021 at 2:09pm
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Titanium
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Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

What ratio?  and a wide or narrow spool?
Right ratio and can pull up with a drill, thu you have a wobble not a keel roller trailer so a toss up between getting drill, using putting away and the time for a short light turn of the winch.

Wide spools take far less effort to wind up as the spool fills... or only have enough on the spool to what is needed, plus 1/2 meter.

Rem do not lube the bushes with petroleum based oils/ greases. They eventually attack the plastic bushes.

Back in the day, ppl used to hang potato sacks over the tyres to protect from the sun. I often wonder about this when visiting caravan/ camping parks.. even the over summer parked units dont have wheels covered..

This and excellent point Mac

Most of the stuff above is 8/10yr maintenance..
Bearings, wheel nuts rollers, lanacoate etc are 6 and 12 month stuff.
Clean up surface rust, longer term, if has been done before.. if not done means structural welding or replace. Gelcoat chips etc 12/ 12 month... more serious like transom screws, remove bung re seal etc 8/10yr.

Hmm adding up cost
3 tins quaity galv paint $75
Keel strip $75
Resin / chop stand $35
Gelcoat $25
About 750ml solid lanacote (in shed stock) dont know $30?
1 X  4" grinding disc in shed stock)  $3 ?
1 x sanding disk (in shed) $3 ?
500mm 10mm dowel (in shed) $5?
GT18 5L $25 ?  only used 10% if that.

 9/16 Staples to re upholster side panels (in shed)
Cloth, got spare when originally did the whole boat.. Total was $112 back then. $15 ?

So $250.. $300 tops..
little bit of time, maybe 2x that sourcing replacing new trailer.
Bit of maintenance certainly leaves a lot of cash left over for a lot of fuel.. As in 1000s of dollars of fuel.
 Then throw in peace of mind when towing and out on the boat...


wide spool 3:1 and 1:1 ratio coated with Lanocote at install and gears greased - yep avoid petroleum on bushings makes them swell.
Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MacSkipper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2021 at 2:10pm
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Problem is a trailer rebuild by shop is not always done properly and cost heaps$.
Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Big -Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2021 at 10:03pm
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I've finally relented and put a new coupling on the trailer.
Built a new one a year ago, the coupling was about 25 years old...
And I seem to wear tires out before they perish..lots of hard miles..
you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...
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