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Annual maintenance boat/ Trailer
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Come end March /April its time for trailer/boat check over maintance, plus last couple trips dropped about 4 or 5L out of the bung after high pressure wash down at sea.
Get to that later.
Maintance: Trailer
Jacked up wheels, no play top/ bottom side to side Spin up the wheels , no rumble. Check wheel nuts are all able to be 'used'
Around 7 or 8 yrs ago I sanded back all surface rust spots, etched, POR 15 ,and lanocoated as maintenance.
Well a few spots have a little bubble now.. but over all impressed how the POR15 has held up.
So time to do again..
The U bolts are good but couple of the plates suspect.
So drop off the axles, sand back the surface rust spots .. axles and chassis (in the process of doing now.
Will put in new U bolts and plates.. re coat the surface rust repairs.
Bend back a guard I bent just cliping a post because of inconsiderate parking at a ramp a few weeks back.
And remove the keel roller bolts, clean or replace the plastic bushes, re grease with non petroleum grease and replace. This is generally around 5 to 6 yrs.
I usually do this at the ramp.. drop the boat in the water.
I have lifted, chocked the boat up about 2" clear on the trailer
Everything else is good.
Boat: the brass rear section of the keel strip is off as its the screws where the water is seeping into the bulge. I did the front section yrs ago..(an old thread on that) This rear section has been done by previous owners as a patch with some sort of filler, rather than a full proper fix... Credit thu its lasted a good 10 plus yrs.
Lift the center floor, check the 150L tank mounting bolts.
Take out all the squabs etc foam up and water blast.
Water blast out all the bulges.
And the hull annual check.. time to dremmel out a few gelcoat chips here and there.. And re gelcoat them.
Boats dont usually sink, cars dont run off the road.
Hulls split cause never get checked/ maintained.
Wheels fall off cause never get checked.
Its also cheaper to attend to surface rust etc when it still is, than replace complete axles or whole trailers.
Its not rocket science or requires a PhD
Get to that later.
Maintance: Trailer
Jacked up wheels, no play top/ bottom side to side Spin up the wheels , no rumble. Check wheel nuts are all able to be 'used'
Around 7 or 8 yrs ago I sanded back all surface rust spots, etched, POR 15 ,and lanocoated as maintenance.
Well a few spots have a little bubble now.. but over all impressed how the POR15 has held up.
So time to do again..
The U bolts are good but couple of the plates suspect.
So drop off the axles, sand back the surface rust spots .. axles and chassis (in the process of doing now.
Will put in new U bolts and plates.. re coat the surface rust repairs.
Bend back a guard I bent just cliping a post because of inconsiderate parking at a ramp a few weeks back.
And remove the keel roller bolts, clean or replace the plastic bushes, re grease with non petroleum grease and replace. This is generally around 5 to 6 yrs.
I usually do this at the ramp.. drop the boat in the water.
I have lifted, chocked the boat up about 2" clear on the trailer
Everything else is good.
Boat: the brass rear section of the keel strip is off as its the screws where the water is seeping into the bulge. I did the front section yrs ago..(an old thread on that) This rear section has been done by previous owners as a patch with some sort of filler, rather than a full proper fix... Credit thu its lasted a good 10 plus yrs.
Lift the center floor, check the 150L tank mounting bolts.
Take out all the squabs etc foam up and water blast.
Water blast out all the bulges.
And the hull annual check.. time to dremmel out a few gelcoat chips here and there.. And re gelcoat them.
Boats dont usually sink, cars dont run off the road.
Hulls split cause never get checked/ maintained.
Wheels fall off cause never get checked.
Its also cheaper to attend to surface rust etc when it still is, than replace complete axles or whole trailers.
Its not rocket science or requires a PhD
Good on you, I will be doing my annual service boat and trailer in July when WOF due.
Usually pick a few windy dry days to do over.
Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.
Wheel nuts and studs starting to show a bit of rust here.
Take them off, wire buff, rust kill and then what product to protect threads?
I've got my father's old torque wrench so may as well use that - what torque should we be looking at?
If rusted up like that, they will also be just under the nuts , between them and the hub...weak and tend to snap.
Also Threads are a science in themselves.. over torque dont grip as well as distorts the threads ...lots stuff.
Best bet , if get to that stage.. replace.
I then put a bit of blue triple gaud marine grease on threads then torque up...specs usually around the 65/ 75 lbs .. if you know the wheel and stud size google the actual specs.
Torque up then use the wheel wrench to get a good feel of how tight it is .
After every trip U give wheel nuts, bolts..keel rollers a squirt of a CRC type product...do not do the winch bushes with a petrolrum type product.. it has plastic bushes.
Also when all finished a MIST spray of lanocoate under the outboard cowl.. the trim area.. NOT any anodes.
A good coat.back of wheel hubs springs etc.
Also Threads are a science in themselves.. over torque dont grip as well as distorts the threads ...lots stuff.
Best bet , if get to that stage.. replace.
I then put a bit of blue triple gaud marine grease on threads then torque up...specs usually around the 65/ 75 lbs .. if you know the wheel and stud size google the actual specs.
Torque up then use the wheel wrench to get a good feel of how tight it is .
After every trip U give wheel nuts, bolts..keel rollers a squirt of a CRC type product...do not do the winch bushes with a petrolrum type product.. it has plastic bushes.
Also when all finished a MIST spray of lanocoate under the outboard cowl.. the trim area.. NOT any anodes.
A good coat.back of wheel hubs springs etc.
Threads id go copper coat or Nickel anti seize. Res q steel also good, be careful when torque up lubed threads, if you look at a thread torque chart you will notice a massive difference in settings between dry and lubed threads.
Yes copper / nickel is the ultimate way to go.
It is easy to miss , details like this.. stuff one sort of does without thinking after 50 odd yrs...
I never had any in my workshop some yrs, no decades back ..tubes of the marine evinrude blue and red (bearing) grease, inox non petroleum food grade. So used the blue grease and maintenance , has work 100% well.
But if at the local supply store, know service coming up.. get the copper ..best practice
With lube on threads, there is less friction when torquing up. This means the torque wrench that 'measures' the friction (rather than the load on the threads) will 'click' after the spec torque.
General rule of thumb is go bottom end of the spec if lube the threads.
Wheel nut torque is extremely important and something so over looked.. even by professional tyre shops.
Its such an important safetly issue, that I know one chain of shops, many yrs ago , in employ contracts included all wheel nut must be finished with a torque wrench.. never the rattle gun
Res-Q-Steel is the ultimate.
The others work, but not as good.
Buy a small tub, while expensive it will last years if you only use in on boat and trailer maintenance. I also use it on my towball and things like that.
Res Q steel is a non hardening protection, in many ways similar to lanocate (lanolin) and would not be surprised if it is not also based on lanolin.
It is not designed to replace galv or galve /paint/ por15 type protective 'skins'
It is , like lanocoate , CRC equivalent to be a seriously stable protective cover over these 'skins.
And yes as that 'added' protection espec on modern galvs , where areas the galv has been scraped, around fixtures (nuts bolts etc) these products are worth more than their weight.
OK axles out, hit the rust with grinder back to good steel, or good galve or good POR15...
Where por15 has failed is tiny crevice in the welding in the center of the axles.. tiny spot of remaining rust worked away under the por15 .
Which is why when clean back to good metal .. it must be sealed withing 20 mins.. before any microscopic rust forms.
This time Im going a little different to por15.
Back to good clean metal. (or galv etc) rust kill with a etch primer.. and 2nd coat after 24 hrs.
The the high spec galv paint .. couple thin coats , let cure for couple hrs (as per instructions) then another couple thin coats
Same on the bits and pieces around the trailer, like the welds that hold the mud guards on the chassis.
The boat hull, every chip in the gel coat have dremmeled out, light sand around , ready for re filling with gelcoat.
Not many and biggest about a old 50c coin.. they are mostly air bubble under the gelcoat when the hull was originally laid up at the factory in the mold.
Source a 2.5m length of new keel brass strip from Burnsco yesterday..
Might get into a bit more grinding on the trailer today.
Axles have had 2nd coat rust kill ecth on.. will cold galv when ready to do the little bits around the trailer
OH .. important..
When came to dropping U bolts, wheel nuts.. because I had put a little quality marine , evinrude blue triple guard grease on the threads last time ( about 8 yrs ago) .. even thu the U bolt plates need replacing... every bolt un wound as if I had put them on yesterday...
This is the "work hard at being lazy" thing
It is not designed to replace galv or galve /paint/ por15 type protective 'skins'
It is , like lanocoate , CRC equivalent to be a seriously stable protective cover over these 'skins.
And yes as that 'added' protection espec on modern galvs , where areas the galv has been scraped, around fixtures (nuts bolts etc) these products are worth more than their weight.
OK axles out, hit the rust with grinder back to good steel, or good galve or good POR15...
Where por15 has failed is tiny crevice in the welding in the center of the axles.. tiny spot of remaining rust worked away under the por15 .
Which is why when clean back to good metal .. it must be sealed withing 20 mins.. before any microscopic rust forms.
This time Im going a little different to por15.
Back to good clean metal. (or galv etc) rust kill with a etch primer.. and 2nd coat after 24 hrs.
The the high spec galv paint .. couple thin coats , let cure for couple hrs (as per instructions) then another couple thin coats
Same on the bits and pieces around the trailer, like the welds that hold the mud guards on the chassis.
The boat hull, every chip in the gel coat have dremmeled out, light sand around , ready for re filling with gelcoat.
Not many and biggest about a old 50c coin.. they are mostly air bubble under the gelcoat when the hull was originally laid up at the factory in the mold.
Source a 2.5m length of new keel brass strip from Burnsco yesterday..
Might get into a bit more grinding on the trailer today.
Axles have had 2nd coat rust kill ecth on.. will cold galv when ready to do the little bits around the trailer
OH .. important..
When came to dropping U bolts, wheel nuts.. because I had put a little quality marine , evinrude blue triple guard grease on the threads last time ( about 8 yrs ago) .. even thu the U bolt plates need replacing... every bolt un wound as if I had put them on yesterday...
This is the "work hard at being lazy" thing
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