The Fishing Website : Discussion Forums : Knife sharpening https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/ Tue, 28 Jul 2026 01:12:52 +0000 Sat, 25 Jan 2020 14:57:46 +0000 http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss Web Wiz Forums 12.01 360 https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/RSS_post_feed.asp?TID=1491 <![CDATA[The Fishing Website : Discussion Forums]]> https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_images/web_wiz_forums.png https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/ <![CDATA[Knife sharpening : Good tips guys 👍 ]]> https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771595&title=knife-sharpening#1771595 Author: fish-feeder
Subject: 1491
Posted: 25 Jan 2020 at 2:57pm

Good tips guys 👍]]> Sat, 25 Jan 2020 14:57:46 +0000 https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771595&title=knife-sharpening#1771595 <![CDATA[Knife sharpening : It took me 25+ years of killing...]]> https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771555&title=knife-sharpening#1771555 Author: Steps
Subject: 1491
Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 7:24pm

It took me 25+ years of killing blades to finally learn how to sharpen them effectively, and Ive never used a whetstone or oil stone...

Yep and in that time from reading your post a HUGE part is  regular maintenance of the edge, storage and care.

Once the edge is worked nice, few quick strokes on a pad, or fine stone or diamond file is all thats needed... which ever is ones personal preference, find works best for them.
 I have used stones for near on 50yrs.. and stroping for fine cut throats..only changed to stropping in resent yrs .

Waiting well after a edge will not slice a tomato skin under its own weight..doesnt work.

 If you ever come across a very fine stone that has what looks like a drill end has been drilled into it..and wondered why...its for putting an edge back on a cut throat.
 Do not use it on a knife.
]]> Fri, 24 Jan 2020 19:24:53 +0000 https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771555&title=knife-sharpening#1771555 <![CDATA[Knife sharpening : Clearly there are loads of different...]]> https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771530&title=knife-sharpening#1771530 Author: OuttaHere
Subject: 1491
Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 4:20pm

Clearly there are loads of different ways to get a "sharp" knife. At the end of the day it's just removing material and shaping the edge... you will also get loads of different opinions about which edge shape is the dogs bollocks, etc.

Personally, I tend to shape the edge with a 1000 grit wetstone, then maintain them with a 3000 grit and a strop. But I'm a weenie, and I don't mine spending ages working on a knife to get it where I want it to be. Usually once the edge is formed how I want it to be it only takes 30 or so licks on the 3000 grit stone and a quick steel to get them back to shaving-sharp.
]]> Fri, 24 Jan 2020 16:20:03 +0000 https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771530&title=knife-sharpening#1771530 <![CDATA[Knife sharpening : Ive got a couple of  knives that...]]> https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771523&title=knife-sharpening#1771523 Author: Titahi
Subject: 1491
Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 2:01pm

Ive got a couple of  knives that will cut paper vertically with no effort.

The quality and material used to make knives differs greatly...

Stainless steel takes a lot more work to keep sharp as opposed to carbon steel, so Im not convinced one method or grit is an appropriate  elixer for all knives

My Blue carbon steel cutting core between two layers of mirror polished stainless steel knife requires only a couple of swipes with a 3000 grit ceramic steel to keep sharp.

The Duel bullnose typically needs a few swipes with a fine diamond stick before  swiping with the 3000 grit ceramic stick

My wives victorinox needs attention with a course diamond steel, then fine diamond steel  then the ceramic   steel

It took me 25+ years of killing blades to finally learn how to sharpen them effectively, and Ive never used a whetstone or oil stone...
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]]> Fri, 24 Jan 2020 14:01:48 +0000 https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771523&title=knife-sharpening#1771523 <![CDATA[Knife sharpening : Can I ask what grit you recommend...]]> https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771517&title=knife-sharpening#1771517 Author: Steps
Subject: 1491
Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 10:00am

Can I ask what grit you recommend starting on please?  For a stone.

 Starting from scratch on convex looking at around 140 or 160 grit to remove flats and just form 1st burrs...Have a look at a svord knife edge next time in a H&F shop.
Then 800
 Then 1200
And if to have a further play , leather strop.. if can find one these days.. and keep in mind, the leather gets impregnated with rouge.. not just straight leather.
]]> Fri, 24 Jan 2020 10:00:45 +0000 https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771517&title=knife-sharpening#1771517 <![CDATA[Knife sharpening : Derek F wrote:Pretty well all...]]> https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771515&title=knife-sharpening#1771515 Author: Steps
Subject: 1491
Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 9:52am

Originally posted by Derek F Derek F wrote:

Pretty well all knives end up convex anyway because no one is perfect with a steel.
When I get them to sharpen I put back a double bevel.  About 18 degrees main bevel then tiny micro bevel at about 20 to 22.  This  gives a strong edge that has a small surface area so that people can touch up easily for quite a long time.  

Regarding stones I find most people who wish to use them start with too fine a stone and blunt knife. They fail or get frustrated and quit. I think people should start with a very course stone so they get somewhere fast and can see and feel the burr so they know they have got to the edge. That is a fine enough edge for many and they can strop the burr off on jute sacking, heavy cotton or whatever. It is easy to finish the edge from there with a finer stone if they wish.


Pretty well all knives end up convex anyway because no one is perfect with a steel.

 A steel just straightens the remaining burr..once the burr has broken off you have a blunt knife that needs re stoning/ honing, regardless of method.
 A steel will not re sharpen a blunt knife..
Not having skills to maintain a consistent angle on the final edge on a stone is why a good burr cannot be formed... and get a sad mixture of a flat hones and convex edge which doesnt work..and causes frustration

I think people should start with a very course stone so they get somewhere fast and can see and feel the burr so they know they have got to the edge.

Yep .. most ppl leave a edge way too long then try a fine stone, inconsistent and end up as I just mentioned above.. Coarse stone less inconsistent

 AND form the burr one side BEFORE going the other.. swap sides before the burr formed causes inconsistencys of angle and a poorly formed burr that break away too easy with use.
Form the burr one side , then the other .. move to finer stone  form the burr one side then the other..
 no burr dont change sides.

That is the most basic 'trick' secret to a fine edge.


When I get them to sharpen I put back a double bevel.  About 18 degrees main bevel then tiny micro bevel at about 20 to 22.  This  gives a strong edge that has a small surface area so that people can touch up easily for quite a long time. 

Yep

Both methods work extremely well...
 difficult to do free hand unless yrs of experience/ practice without a jig.. a reliable very solid jig..
A convex edge is basically the same, far more forgiving, and far more for giving for the causal person to pick up.. and a large old mouse pad and couple sheets wet and dry.
And when the edge drops, 10 to 25 strokes each side, and its back again.. no set up.

Always remember , any old knife.. or bit of steel, can be made razor sharp..very easy...
it is the quality of the steel
if ever been heated
 how it is cleaned (not dishwasher)
how it is stored  (not in  draw)
and the skill of the person using the knife that maintains a good edge for a long time.
 And that is where ppl also have issues



]]> Fri, 24 Jan 2020 09:52:40 +0000 https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771515&title=knife-sharpening#1771515 <![CDATA[Knife sharpening : Can I ask what grit you recommend...]]> https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771512&title=knife-sharpening#1771512 Author: riga
Subject: 1491
Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 9:36am

Can I ask what grit you recommend starting on please?  For a stone.]]> Fri, 24 Jan 2020 09:36:47 +0000 https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771512&title=knife-sharpening#1771512 <![CDATA[Knife sharpening : Thanks Bazza. I do occasionally...]]> https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771507&title=knife-sharpening#1771507 Author: Derek F
Subject: 1491
Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 9:10am

Thanks Bazza.  I do occasionally have people freight a shoe box of knives to me with a return freight ticket.  At only $5 a knife it still works out cheap for them.  ]]> Fri, 24 Jan 2020 09:10:28 +0000 https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771507&title=knife-sharpening#1771507 <![CDATA[Knife sharpening : Derek sharpened two or three...]]> https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771503&title=knife-sharpening#1771503 Author: bazza
Subject: 1491
Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 8:45am

Derek sharpened two or three of my knives & the results were superb
so reckon he knows what he is talking about therefore worth listening to.
Just a pity he does not live in Aucks as they are currently badly in need of expert sharpening.   
]]> Fri, 24 Jan 2020 08:45:02 +0000 https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771503&title=knife-sharpening#1771503 <![CDATA[Knife sharpening : Pretty well all knives end up...]]> https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771502&title=knife-sharpening#1771502 Author: Derek F
Subject: 1491
Posted: 24 Jan 2020 at 8:26am

Pretty well all knives end up convex anyway because no one is perfect with a steel.
When I get them to sharpen I put back a double bevel.  About 18 degrees main bevel then tiny micro bevel at about 20 to 22.  This  gives a strong edge that has a small surface area so that people can touch up easily for quite a long time.  

Regarding stones I find most people who wish to use them start with too fine a stone and blunt knife. They fail or get frustrated and quit. I think people should start with a very course stone so they get somewhere fast and can see and feel the burr so they know they have got to the edge. That is a fine enough edge for many and they can strop the burr off on jute sacking, heavy cotton or whatever. It is easy to finish the edge from there with a finer stone if they wish.
]]> Fri, 24 Jan 2020 08:26:31 +0000 https://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1491&PID=1771502&title=knife-sharpening#1771502