Agree with what has been said, sharp hooks & run the lures where they look best for your boat and in your wake, this can change for different sea conditions and different lures, no set exact length, but one that gets the lure swimming well.

On my spin reels/braid I run a hard drag that I can pull line of the reel but it is firm and takes a bit of force. When fish hit jigs hard I guess that there is more initial shock than that of a crash bite by a game fish via trolling, and I figure that if my leaders and knots can handle the forces put on them in a tug of war with big Kings/Bass vertically, then they should be up to the task. I am not a fan of putting a lot of excess line/braid in the water if I do not have to (especially on a spin reel), and if possible prefer to keep the fish on a shorter line if possible by having a harder drag from the outset. Not everyone's cup of tea and plenty of very successful people do it very differently.

Once the initial run is over, you can dial up the pressure and really bully fish with a quality spin/braid set if you like to fish that way, it can however work against you though as they can be very green boat side. Not advising you to do this,,but some like it this way.

You probably already a have a fishing style/technique that you are comfortable with mono, so maybe transfer that to what you do with braid?

Good point regarding IGFA stuff, for me I don't worry about any of that as I am not in a club and not fishing comps. I run a usual jigging leader with FG knot to a swivel to a 'normal' full length or slightly longer leader, so it is like a wind on initially in that I can wind the heavier leader onto the reel but then the fish is still leadered by hand, so its not a wind on. Once gain plenty of others do it very differently to me and are very successful.

Everyone has different preferences on how much drag to run. some heavy some hard. I prefer hard like to stick the pricks and it seems to work for us...

Alan, sounds really useful, I wont be running riggers so no problem there, maybe 3 rods in a spread. 

Is running them in the short make them run better or is it to minimise the lines cutting each other if they cross. 

Good Idea about the safety clips too, Best go invest in a couple before its too late. 

Do you have you drag set just on or at strike or somewhere in between. (I understand there is no strike mark on a spin reel but just at that kind of tension.)

I have done quite a bit of game trolling with braid on spin reels. It works well and got some good results with it; yellowfin, mahi mahi, wahoo and gts etc but no marlin though. Great fighting with a lighter rod and reel.

Others have done it successfully and have landed marlin.

I find that line twist can happen from the PR or FG knot, so suggest a swivel somewhere in the system, I put one on in front of a 'normal game leader'. The braid can cut through other lines if the fish goes sideways fast. But this can happen with mono also at times. I use a hard drag and find the braid really helps to punch the hook home in my experience, others will disagree on this point. 

I also do not want to lose a whole lot of braid off the reel too fast as line capacity is not as big as most overhead reels. 

I like to run the braid/spin set ups on the short corners, as i found that braid can get damaged in outriggers or can also tangle easily, so I like to keep it simple and troll from the rod tip on the closer waves off the corners.

I also safety clip the sets in around the reel seat and back on its own cord/rope, keeps the set it in the boat but also allows it to be unclipped quickly when needed.

Good fun and hope it goes well for you.