1 kg, yeah right

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote Capt Asparagus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan 2016 at 11:11am
Capt Asparagus View Drop Down

Joined: 18 Sep 2002
Location: New Zealand
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Points: 13163
They also sell them at Gourocks too, at least, I have seen plenty of them there. Probably dearer than hookapukas offer though, that sounds like a bloody good price! 20c per hook! Very cheap!
I have often wondered if they'd be good for live baiting kingies and puka etc, the little ring would certainly make the rig very free actioned.....
It is only my overwhelming natural humility that mars my perfection.

Captain Asparagus, Superhero, Adventurer.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote terrafish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2018 at 2:36pm
terrafish View Drop Down

Joined: 01 Feb 2018
Location: B.O.I
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God I wish I knew about this site years ago, but i didnt so am reviving this thread to help clear up a few things based upon first hand experience.

No i've never been part of HnB Team. The skipper i worked for had been doing it long before they came along.

Angler, skipper, traceman, gaffmen. In that order. The angler has to be top of his game and react accordingly and instantly to all moves made by the fish, such as if it makes a run then the reel has to be dumped into near freespool, If the skipper has to tell them this- POP. They need to be masters of their rod technigues which many of us think but few of us are. They have to have The mental stamina to fight a fish and if they make one mistake-POP. They need to be able to present the bait perfectly(pitch baiting) to the fish so as not to bust off if it is aggresive (although i have seen them almost sip them off the surface like a trout to a dry) otherwise POP. If livebaiting(yes you can tow a skippy on 2kg but i'm gunna keep that one to myself atm) They have to be able to tell the difference between a agitated bait a frisky bait and when the bite happens otherwise-POP All of this has to be done by instinct, muscle memory if you please, because being unable to react and improvise quick enough ends in- POP.

The Skipper has to keep the boat in a position to take or make any opportunity presented by the fish. Yep can get a serious amount of whitewater going but at the same time could be just clicked in gear ticking along quitely, especially if the fish is close and just cruising, less chance of spooking it (same goes on heavy tackle, try it sometime!). If the fish has gone deep,then trying to keep up with it without overtaking it or getting to much of a belly in the line and helping angler try to retrieve line while waiting for it to come back up(more often than not even stripeys on heavy tackle do this and normally once every hour or so. Its just easier to get em moving again!). They're also communicating with the angler giving optons and discussing what the best approach to each fish is and re-evaluating all the time. They're also masters of their machines, able to do things withem that us mere mortals can only dream about!!!!!!!.

The traceman, well while the angler and the skipper have been gettin their jollys on a semi regular basis, they've been itching to see that swivel come up out of the water towards a very firmly gloved hand, with only one instruction - Dont let it go. That means if you break the trace or pull the hook, then never mind it wasn't meant for us, but letting go will have you confined to the bilges for the rest of the trip.   No pressure. Then gotta get fish under control to present it to the gaffman.

The gaffman. They have now got the weight of success firmly on their shoulders, everyone else has done their part and now all they have to do is make a clean calculated gaff PLACEMENT. Not a blind slash or hurried swing as this could well just end in disaster undoing everything up to this point. They need to wait to be called in so as not to get in the way of the traceman who may well still have to be mobile( Happened to me once where after the forearms had been summararily beaten to bruised and pulpy state and the thighs not much better, came in early, on the wrong side, and promptly ground my toes into the deck, almost too much, but bilge watch is not my thing so I hung on but with salty tear!!). Placement and timing is critical. A poor shot could tear out and potentially class the fish as mutilated and therefore disqualified from any W/R claims.

How much line can you get out. Well on the surface, in a straight line, Alot 300+ easy. It's when they change direction at speed that they bust off, or drag to big a belly in the line. Seen over 400 out and got back. When they go deep its more tricky depends on what the fish does. Any time the fish are out these distances you only want enough drag to retrieve line absolutely no more, and if you're losing line, back to freespool(ratchet on allways).

They dont even know they're hooked! Why do they react allmost exactly the same as on 37kg? They know they are in the poo and doing exactly the things that all well behaved marlin do, just with a couple of hundred more things that can go wrong at our end!!

Are we killing all the fish that bust off? Fair question. Undoubtedly there will be a few but what has to be taken into account is the fact that large amounts of drag have not been applied to these hooks. Effectively not tearing their guts out, ripping their gills open or punturing other bodily organs. When they do bust off it is more often than not at the fish end so not huge amounts of line to drag around and the opportunity to shed the hook( i know its not the same but take blue koheru for example. If you catch one on a bait, hooked in the throat/gut, cut it off then get hook out of livey tank later. Happens 3/5 times.). If the fish is going to be released, then the fish is not wrapped unless clearly visible, instead it is cut as close to fish as possible, so as to not cause any more potential damage to the fish. Remember that youre only allowd 15ft of leader on these line classes not 30.

Then there is all the line testing, knot learning, bait rigging, team discusions breaking down what went wrong or right, drag testing, tuning, modifications etc etc etc.

So much more i could have added but just realised how long this is. So will just add that most of what i have explained here relates 2kg - 8kg line. Mr Jacobsen kindly saved us the hassle by putting 1kg out of reach.

So if you want to become a better, well rounded fisherman with skills to match give the light tackle a go, but maybe don't start with 1kg straight off the bat.

No offense meant to anyone here whatsoever, just statement as I have experienced it first hand.     
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Keith C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2018 at 9:28pm
Keith C View Drop Down

Joined: 17 Jul 2002
Location: Urenui
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Good post Terrafish, re-affirming what has been said earlier in the thread about the light tackle fishing being a team effort. Most rewarding if you have a good team and succeed.

One thing I haven't seen covered is the tackle aspect - things like reels used and their drags or modifications. Would be interesting to hear comments on that from people who have done it or still do.

I can remember fishing 'light tackle' mono (3 or 4 kg IGFA-rated) under IGFA rules in the 80s and we would be rapt to get 5:1 and sometimes 10:1 catches on those lines. Terrain was extremely important e.g. kingi on sand with no structure even close. Also targeted the dreaded 'couta - great sport on light tackle.
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