Rarotonga

Despite crisscrossing the Pacific for many years, checking out a variety of fishing destinations, the Cook Islands has never featured – until last month.

At the invitation of the Cook Islands Game Fishing Club and the country’s Tourism Office, I was asked to participate in the annual Gary Parlour Wahoo Tournament, fished between the Rarotonga and Aitutaki Game Fishing Clubs, one of the biggest fishing events in this part of the Pacific.

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I had heard plenty about the fishery and the operators from colleagues, Trip Advisor and various fishing forums, with the reports being very mixed.

So after packing a few clothes and a lure bag, I set off on the three-hour flight with an open mind... 

A few days later, having spoken with a number of the charter operators, I can now offer the following observations…

Expectations

As is often the case in the majority of tropical destinations, the weather won’t always be fine, the winds light, and the seas calm – despite what the brochures and spin doctors might say. So it pays to pick your fishing days, especially if you are a less experienced mariner or have children in tow.

Talk to the skippers and make a plan. They know the weather patterns, so be advised by them. And, fortunately, even if one boat is not available when you want it, there will be some other good choices.

Go with the right attitude. If expecting to catch marlin, you will most likely be disappointed. Instead, look to enjoy your time out in a beautiful place, with any fish being a bonus – of which there can be plenty at times! 

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Species

Most of the species are seasonal, with peak times for each. During September and October it is mahimahi and wahoo time (including some impressive specimens), with the best yellowfin tuna fishing being experienced over the warmer months.

While marlin, mostly blues, are present for most of the year, they’re not present in great numbers. Having said that though, the biggest fish taken was a blue just under 400kg aboard Akura, so they are always a possibility.

You can expect some huge skipjack (the winning fish in the contest was over 13kg), and boats deep-dropping baits catch big albacore, too, with fish to 30kg being recorded.

Techniques

This is essentially a troll fishery, and the boats I saw were all well-equipped for this purpose.

I enjoyed a variety of trolling techniques, including: rigged flying-fish swimmer and skip baits; conventional skirted game lures; bibbed and bib-less minnows; and even small poppers on lighter spin gear – deadly on the yellowfin.

Another technique I wasn’t introduced to is tuna fishing ‘island style’, where the bait and berley is wrapped up, along with a stone, in leaves. The line is fed out until the desired depth is reached. A quick pull undoes the slip knot, releasing the bait and berley to drift around in the selected zone. The best tuna weighed in during the contest were caught this way.

Some boats will be geared up to cast poppers to schooling fish, or drop jigs near one of several FADs scattered around the island. 

Fishing zones

One of the critical comments I saw on-line went something like this: ‘The skipper started setting the lines as soon as we got out of the harbour.’

So when my skipper, Eva Koteka, did this too, I initially wondered what was going on. It turns out there’s a ledge not far out that sees the sea floor plummet to 400 metres, and this is where the bait and associated predators are found. As a result, many of the FADs are located on this first drop-off (several others are placed a little further out on the 1000-metre mark, but you can still hear the dogs barking!).

The winning wahoo for the tournament was caught near this drop-off zone, less than a nautical mile offshore, and marlin have regularly been encountered within spitting distance of the harbour entrance as well. This is one of the beauties of fishing in Rarotonga: you don’t need to steam for kilometres to get among the action – a few hundred metres is enough. 

The skippers also concentrate their efforts around the reef points, especially in the wahoo season, as these fish like the current created by the structure. The only downside to this is the choppier sea produced when the wind is against the tide. 

The boats

Like many Pacific destinations, the Rarotongan charter boat fleet is an ageing one. I didn’t see any big, fast, modern game fishers, but they don’t have to be to access a fishery that’s right on the doorstep. Any boat with a top speed of eight knots is plenty when you only have to go a few metres beyond the reef to get amongst the action.

The boats are generally well used too, but there’s generally a healthy attituse to safety, and I was given a thorough safety briefing before leaving the marina. Many of the smaller, locally-made fishing boats will also take you along for a day’s fishing if you ask them. However, they will only take one or two at a time, and you will probably pay around the same amount individually as you would for one of the dedicated charter boats.

Most charters are for a ‘half-day’ – five hours – with full days open to negotiation. Some of the busier boats will be doing two ‘half-day’ charters a day, back to back, morning and afternoon. 

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One question you should ask when making a booking on the bigger boats is, “What is the maximum number of anglers you take?” If it is a charter made up of a number of individuals, you don’t want more than four anglers aboard or your chances of hooking a fish in your allotted time become very slim.

Skippers and crews

Most of the skippers and crewmen are locals, with some ex-pats thrown in. If the talk around the clubroom leaners was any indication, they are a competitive group, but don’t mind sharing their knowledge. There appears to be a great attitude of common good – especially outside tournament time – with accurate information freely shared to ensure everyone gets among the fish.

Who owns the fish?

One of the more frequent complaints on Trip Advisor was centred around ownership of the catch. This varies greatly throughout the Pacific. In New Zealand and Australia, anglers get to keep the catch, no argument. In Hawaii, the catch belongs to the crew and is part of their pay. In Samoa and Tonga it is a little less specific, with the fish staying with the boat, but there is generally a willingness to share a little for anglers to take back for dinner.

Rarotonga is the same. The fish belong to the boat, but you only have to ask and there will usually be a generous quantity offered to you for a meal. In these small nations there is not a big inshore fishing fleet to provide for the domestic market. Consequently, many of the charter boats fish commercially when lacking paying clients, and there is a ready market for the catch among the many restaurants and resorts.

Other options

If you want to do your own thing, take over a travel spin rod (one that breaks down to fit in your luggage and avoid paying airline excess charges) and reel, along with a handful of lures.

You can fish the lagoons and reefs, but take all the normal land-based precautions – wear shoes and watch the swells. There are a number of no-take marine reserve areas around the island, but these are well marked. If unsure, ask.

Another fun way involves kayaking around the lagoon and fishing. Be careful to stay clear of the reef passages, as there are generally strong currents in these spots.

Giant trevally and dogtooth tuna are present here, and there are charter boats that will take you to fish for them. However, these species are for the more serious and skilled anglers, and generally you will have to bring your own gear. The same applies if you want to jig the drop-offs and FADs, so researching beforehand what these boats can cater for is well worthwhile, backed up by contacting the operator to discuss your options.

One quite unique fishing opportunity is to go out at night and catch flying fish the traditional way with a light and scoop net. It is fun, but not as easy as the locals make it look!

Attitude

Be positive. You are on holiday – relax, have fun. Take a few bevvies, plenty of sun protection, and be prepared to have a good time. If you don’t catch a fish, there is always tomorrow!

   This article is reproduced with permission of   
New Zealand Fishing News

October 2015 - by Grant Dixon
Re-publishing elsewhere is prohibited

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