Fishing in Turangi

Steve Dickinson spent 80 consecutive days fishing a stretch of water in Turangi and learnt some valuable lessons about life and angling along the way…

The day was bright and clear, the sky was blue, there was no wind. The river was like gin, crystal clear and cold with the winter run off as the snows continued to melt. I had fished all the usual places, nothing, not even a sniff. I lightened the end line to 4lb and reduced the nymph down to a tiny green beaded flash back peasant tail.

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The water was a little deeper, the bead giving just that tiny bit more weight. My first cast under the overhanging tree, the indicator bobbed under. I struck, solid, unmovable – I had hooked a log or a stick. I pulled and pulled but could not release it, so I started to put the rod under my arm to try and get a different angle for pressure and then the log came to life! Like a steam train it headed upriver, which was perfect. I followed him every inch of the way. I played him so cautiously as it had been the only fish of the day. I played him to the shallows; a really good fish, fat and healthy, bright red down his flank, his big jaw opening and closing, about 5-6lb. I placed the net in the water, and he made one last backflip and snapped the line just above the bomb. But he didn’t leave; he just stayed and looked at me. I could see the beaded nymph, like a piercing on top of his lip. I looked at him, he looked at me and with a ‘f*** you’ attitude he very slowly swam off. I sat on the bank, watched the river, resigned myself to the loss, and then walked the 600m home and that was the end of day 80!

Steve says its more about the experience than catching trout – and it’s not hard to see why.

Steve says its more about the experience than catching trout – and it’s not hard to see why.

In July 2021 we relocated from Auckland to Turangi to fish and ski the winter season, which in light of Auckland’s looming Covid lockdown was very fortuitous. Turangi is a delightful town if you like to fish. We purchased a property there 18 years ago and it was not expensive. Although the river has changed a few times over the years with different flooding patterns, our house has always been about 600m from the bank. It was here I was taught to fly fish by the late John Sommerville, who sadly passed away while I was in the middle of writing this article. He not only taught me how to fish, he showed me how to love it and it has been a passion ever since.

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When we arrived in July, I didn’t fish every day but managed to get out a few times a week. Then lockdown came and at first we were not allowed to fish at all. What was truly amazing was how the river soon flourished with fish life – the fish were shallow and there were a lot of them. Even my dog started to try and catch them. But absence makes the heart grow fonder and not being able to fish soon became frustrating. I heard a rumour that you could fish in the river at level 4, but I wasn’t sure, so I asked a local police officer who was checking on the riverbank if it was okay or not. His reply, in typical Turangi manner, was, “You can fish but don’t be a dick and wade too deep.” With the official nod of approval, I was back into it.

Steve with one of the many fish he caught during his 80 day fishing streak.

Steve with one of the many fish he caught during his 80 day fishing streak.

Eighty-four days later, I have yet to miss a day. Some days have been more fun than others. I caught fish in a deluging storm and caught nothing on perfect days. As a rough calculation, I have used over 150m of line (10lb, 8lb, 6lb and 4lb). It is hard to calculate the number of lost flies, but it must be in the region of 100. When I first started, some local trees that are hard to get to over deep-water pools looked like Christmas trees (not just with my flies). I broke two rods. I slipped on the bank and snapped one at the handle; the other broke on a large fish (I think a previous cast that had hit the rod had caused a crack). I have been through five pairs of thermal socks and bought three types of waders to cope with the changing season.

How many fish? On average I lose about five fish per day so that’s about 400 fish lost! Some days you land one, on others you land 10. I never kept a record, but I wish I had. I don’t always bring them home, but I will bring one home from time to time. That is still a lot of trout to eat – fried, baked, smoked, grilled, pate, even raw, and with noodles, with vegetables, with rice or just on its own. I even tried to cook the roe once. It looked great but I could not get that to work (I am open to suggestions).

While he released the majority of the fish he landed, Steve occassionally took one home for the table.

While he released the majority of the fish he landed, Steve occasionally took one home for the table.

In the Central Plateau you really see the change in seasons. The paths you freely walked in winter get choked with rapid growth. Trees and shrubs go from black bare branches to buds, to blossoms, to leaves. One morning it was so cold (–8 degrees) I could not tie on a fly and my rod eyes were freezing over. Lately, it is so hot I have to stop and climb out of all my gear to rest and cool down.

There is a real sense of a fishing community here. You meet the same people on the river, everyone has time to stop and chat, you find yourself happily helping novices because others helped you and after eighty days you really don’t care if you don’t fish every moment. But you do get to know every nook, cranny, and ripple. Just last week I arrived to see a guy and his wife standing on a bank across the river fishing in a fast rapid. They saw me coming and waved. I asked how the fishing was going and they said, “Terrible.” They had been there for an hour and nothing. So I told them there are fish there but it’s more ‘there’ and pointed to a shallow ripple where I knew fish have been laying day after day. I had stopped fishing it as it was a bit like shooting fish in a barrel. I could tell they didn’t believe me, so I encouraged them to give it a try. One cast, one fish. They were amazed and thrilled – it made my day.

There are a lot of trout guides living here. In our street alone there are four or five. As long as you have time to spare, they are happy to pass over their years of expertise because you are part of the community.

Eighty days fishing seems like a lot, and I guess it is. It’s been a great way to spend the winter. It becomes almost a type of meditation – the action, the calm, the sound of the river, and with the world pretty much in turmoil, it has been a great escape. It really is not about catching the fish; it’s about the experience.

Spending 80 days fishing this stretch of water was time well spent according to Steve.

Spending 80 days fishing this stretch of water was time well spent according to Steve.

Lastly, I have to give a shoutout to the local fishing store in Turangi, Sporting Life. Andrew, Jessie, and the team have been great. They’re always helpful with real advice and their knowledge of the area is complete (this is not a paid advert). A good local store can take so much of the guess work out of a region.

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As we still try to come to terms with what has happened in the world, it’s good to know that there can be a silver lining and mine has been the opportunity to become extremely intimate with a stretch of water that in normal circumstances would have been a one night stand.


February 2022 - Steve Dickinson
New Zealand Fishing News Magazine.
Copyright: NZ Fishing Media Ltd.
Re-publishing elsewhere is prohibited

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