I’ve always felt privileged to have been born a New Zealander and having seen a decent amount of the rest of the world, by and large there is nowhere else that I would rather make my home. American geographer William Bunge coined the term ‘The Tyranny of Distance’ (a phrase later borrowed by Australian historian Geoffrey Blainey for his enormously influential book of the same name) to explain how geographical remoteness is central to shaping a country’s history and identity.

Our geographic isolation, relatively low population, and the fact that New Zealand was the last decent-sized piece of land to be found and colonised by humans means we haven’t managed to totally destroy our environment – yet – although we are getting closer by the year. I don’t think we are any better at environmental management than any other country, it’s just that we have not had time or the population pressure to wear out the new toy.

The tyranny of distance has been a good thing in many ways for us. Our little group of islands at the bottom of the world is geographically blessed when it comes to fresh water and minimal effects (so far) of global warming and sea level rises, at least when compared to many other countries. And having no land borders, a modest population and a fast acting, public-minded government has, it currently appears, saved us from the worst ravages of COVID-19.

So, there is a lot to be said for islands. Most of us live on the biggest couple of the ones in our region but there are a great many other reasonably-sized pieces of land scattered around our continental shelf and coasts. Some of islands are remote and some are not, but in many cases, being a little harder to get to than most mainland spots, they all have their specialities and can represent some of the best fishing in the country.

The features of New Zealand’s offshore islands change as we progress from north to south; the vegetation, geology, water temperature, and most of all, the fish species. So, from the far north to the deep south, here are representative regional samplings of a few of New Zealand’s offshore Islands which I have fished over the years.

Norfolk Island – on the border

Wait a minute, surely Norfolk Island is an Australian territory, not part of New Zealand? Well, in practical and political terms, yes, but you can put up a good case in the geographical and geological fields for Norfolk to be considered part of New Zealand. For example, it is closer to us than to Australia – a mere 766km north of North Cape, while it is 1412km off the Australian mainland. You can fly there (and if this trans-Tasman bubble concept is approved, hopefully will be able to again, soon) from Auckland in about 2 hours and 20 minutes, whereas a direct flight from Sydney takes a quarter of an hour longer than that. Geologically, Norfolk is on our continental shelf, sitting astride the Norfolk Ridge, which stretches north from New Zealand.

Norfolk Island is strikingly different from much of the rest of the Pacific. It sits on the borderline between temperate and tropical climates. Stately Norfolk pines take the place of coconut palms. Gannets and terns feed alongside the gorgeous red-tailed tropicbirds in coastal waters, while onshore, magnificent red and blue parrots strut amongst European imports like starlings and sparrows.

As mentioned, Norfolk Island (and the attendant Phillip and Nepean Islands) is a volcanic remnant on the relatively shallow Norfolk ridge. Around the island is a large shallow shelf, mostly 30-50m deep. A good deal of this shelf area is contained in the ‘Norfolk Box’, a 30 by 60nm rectangle drawn around Norfolk Island in which commercial fishing is not permitted. A great idea, protecting Norfolk fishery resources from the depredations of large commercial boats. At its closest, the shelf edge is 12.5nm off the island and drops off to abyssal depths.

In the water there is a curious mix of species – standard Kiwi kingfish, snapper, kahawai and trevally alongside tropical fish like sweetlip (red throated emperor or ‘trumpeter’ locally) black tipped rock cod (‘tomato cod’) and butterfly fish, to name just a few. Coral has a secure hold on the reefs, but the range of marine life is a reduced version of that found in the warmer waters further north. Deepwater fishing off the edge of the shelf can produce some huge bar cod (convict grouper), golden snapper and sweetlip, and in the warmer months, yellowfin, wahoo and three species of marlin may be caught.

Bar cod take the place of hapuku at Norfolk Island.

Snapper are taken at Norfolk on an occasional basis, mostly well to the south, or out near the edge of the shelf. Some of these are very big fish indeed – I have seen photos of Norfolk snapper in excess of 24 kilos! Yes, kilos!

Several charter operators offer fishing trips from the island. Boats are launched by crane off a wharf (usually at Kingston), but this is weather-dependant.

Three Kings – fishing Valhalla

The Three Kings Islands are comprised of 13 uninhabited islands about 55 kilometres northwest of Cape Reinga. The islands themselves total only 6.85 square kilometres in area but are associated with the large underwater King and Middlesex Banks named by Dutch explorer Abel Tasman in 1643. The islands were then inhabited by Maori, but since 1840 they have been uninhabited.

There are no beaches at these rugged Islands and as they are wildlife reserves, landing is prohibited. The Islands are in two groups, the King Group and the South West Group (including the Princes Islands). The 4.04 square kilometre Great Island (or King Island) is by far the largest and offers three potential anchorages, depending on wind direction: North West Bay, South East Bay and smaller Cascade Bay which is open to the south-west.

Pretty much all the gamefish species found in NZ waters can be encountered there, including a spectacular autumn striped marlin fishery, most shark and tuna species, and swordfish. For those keen on smaller species, world record class kingfish and trevally are common (but can be hard to land on lighter tackle). Bottom fish include big hapuku, bass and bluenose and it is a stronghold of the impressive and delicious king tarakihi. About the only popular species not common here is that Kiwi favourite, the snapper, but the odd one can be found by getting in close to the kelp edge with berley and strayline.

‘The Kings’ is a fantastic fishery, but there are downsides. They are isolated and uninhabited, so boats need to be big, self-contained and self-reliant. It can be uncomfortable, too. Currents are strong in this region, so sea conditions are often rough. Anchorages are tricky and not well protected. Drop the pick too far out and you will roll the milk out of your tea all night; but too close to shore and swarms of biting insects will give you a hard time. And if the weather looks like cutting up you have little option but to run for the shelter of the mainland, and that can be a long, hard trip in deteriorating conditions. But, hell, if it was easy up there, the fishing would not be anywhere near as great as it is.

A rugged coast and tricky anchorages complicate staying at the Three Kings.

Great Barrier – snapper country

Great Barrier Island lies across the throat of the Hauraki Gulf and got its European name from Captain Cook because it acts as a barrier between the Pacific Ocean and the Hauraki Gulf. Around 100 kilometres north-east of central Auckland and with an area of 285 square kilometres, it is NZ’s sixth-largest island and at its highest point is 627 metres above sea level. A continuation of the Coromandel volcanic system, it had an early background in mining (copper, gold and silver), kauri logging and commercial fishing. The human population is a little under a thousand and these days, they mostly make a living from farming and tourism. Sixty percent of the island is administered by the Department of Conservation as a nature reserve. Well served by light aircraft and ferries from Auckland, travelling to Great Barrier is a little like stepping back in time 50 years.

Great Barrier protects the Hauraki Gulf from major ocean swells and its east coast comprises long, clear, windswept sandy surf beaches. The rocky western coast, sheltered and calm, is well served by secluded bays and several protected harbours which are often used by visiting launches and yachts.

There are many species of fish available in the waters around Great Barrier Island: the usual range of gamefish (marlin, tuna, sharks) wider out in summer; kingfish on the reefs all around the island; ‘puka on deeper pins off the eastern side; kahawai and trevally and the usual range of bottom fish all over.

But what Great Barrier is best known for is its snapper. The Hauraki Gulf represents perfect conditions for snapper. It has stood up to over a century of commercial and recreational pressure and is still in reasonable shape. Situated at the outer end of the Gulf, Great Barrier is a snapper hotspot. Besides the resident snapper population, there is a lot of ‘passing trade’. Entrance to the Hauraki Gulf is via two channels, one on each side of the island. The Colville Channel and the Cradock Channel are major migratory pathways for snapper when they move into the inner gulf in spring, then out again in autumn.

Great Barrier is well known for excellent snapper fishing.

White Island – kingfish heaven

White Island is another New Zealand fishing Valhalla. An active volcano situated 48km north-northwest of the harbour town of Whakatane, the main island covers 325ha and has been nearly continuously releasing volcanic gas at least since it was first sighted by James Cook in 1769. It erupted continually from December 1975 until September 2000, apparently the world’s longest-recorded eruption episode.

The island has a disasterous past. Sulphur was mined there until the 1930s. Ten miners were killed in 1914 when part of the crater wall collapsed. More recently, the island was a tourist attraction until a tragic and powerful eruption in December 2019 resulted in 20 fatalities, with a further 25 survivors suffering serious injuries. The island is rugged, with cliffs surrounding most of the coast. The only exceptions are to the southeast of the crater, where ash and boulder slopes descend to Crater Bay. A small islet, Club Rocks, lies 800m off the main island, while the Volkner Rocks, a marine reserve, are 5km away.

The waters surrounding the island have been a destination for anglers for many years and are well-known for their fish stocks. In the warmer months, striped, blue and black marlin, yellowfin, bluefin, bigeye, skipjack and albacore tuna, swordfish and game sharks may be found in the region. The bottom fishing in the region is well-known for hapuku, bass, bluenose, tarakihi and many others. The island also boasts some of the biggest trevally in the country, a great challenge on light tackle and fly.

Snapper are an unusual catch at White Island, but this is more than made up for by the consistent kingfish action, originally popularised by now-retired charter skipper Rick Pollock. Some of the world’s biggest kingfish have come from this region and careful management and an extensive tagging program have seen kingfish stocks remain in good shape over the years, the backbone of a charter fleet operating out of Whakatane.

There are some big kingfish at White Island. A comprehensive tag and release program has kept fish populations in good shape.

D’Urville Island – halfway house

About halfway down the country is D’Urville Island, near the northern tip of the Marlborough Sounds. It was named for French explorer Jules Dumont D’Urville and with an area of approximately 150km2 is New Zealand’s eighth largest island, formed from the peaks of drowned sea valleys. There are about 50 permanent residents.

It is about 35 kilometres long and 10 kilometres wide at its widest point. The island is separated from the mainland by French Pass through which water passes at up to eight knots each tide. The huge tide rips and boils are most impressive.

An airstrip is located at Greville Harbour and a barge service gives vehicular access to the island. There are three harbours along its west coast and the island can also be accessed by boat from the Marlborough Sounds.

With lots of reef and powerful currents adjacent to Cook Strait, there are a wide range of fish available in the region. In the early days of jig fishing, I was involved in filming a video called Jigmania 2. Using only metal jigs, we caught 14 different species for the camera including multiple kingfish, trevally, snapper and warehou, literally hundreds of big blue cod, barracouta (of course) and a wide range of bottom species, all in midwinter.

By contrast, during a mid-summer trip to the region some years later, trolling offshore produced albacore and skipjack, while drifting with squid baits turned up a number of groper (hapuku) to 25kg, a heap of XOS blue cod, tarakihi, kahawai, and half a dozen big snapper. One of the anchorages at D’urville yielded half a dozen jack mackerel which were livebaited. Those that got past the ‘couta produced a pair of 24kg kingies. Diverse fishing indeed, with plenty of powerful sportfish and delicious table species.

D'urville Island hosts three sheltered anchorages - and the powerful currents of French pass.

The Chatham Islands – a kai storehouse

About 800km to the east of mainland New Zealand lie the remote Chatham Islands. The island group was originally settled around 1000 years ago by Eastern Polynesian voyagers. They became the Moriori people, and called their new home Rekohu, meaning ‘misty skies’ or ‘misty sun’. Europeans first became aware of the island group in 1791 when the British ship HMS Chatham tripped over it after being blown off course, and promptly renamed it.

With a population of around 660, the Chathams, like Great Barrier, have the feel and pace of life that New Zealand had half a century ago. The people are friendly, helpful, self-reliant, competent and hard-working. The economy largely relies on fishing, farming and (pre-COVID-19) a bit of tourism. Most locals work several jobs to make a living.

Although fresh produce is limited and expensive, if you are a hunter, gatherer, diver or fisherman, you can largely feed yourself. The list is long: swans, ducks, wild pigs and sheep (on nearby Pitt Island), wekas, a massive lagoon full of eels and flounder, huge whitebait runs, miles of empty beaches loaded with tuatua and cockles, plentiful paua (some of which are high and dry at low tide), easy shore fishing for huge blue cod and blue moki; kahawai and kingies at the river mouths, groper (hapuku) in only 20 or 30m of water and plenty of crayfish.

A great blue cod for fishery is a Chathams mainstay.

There are several charter operators who can take you out boat fishing, and this can normally be organised through accommodation providers or online. If you are planning to visit the Chatham Islands, fishing charters are best organised before you go, to avoid disappointment. It is best to be flexible, too, as the weather is a controlling factor.

Stewart Island – southern special

Our third largest island, Stewart Island sits 30 kilometres south of the South Island, separated from the ‘Mainland’ by the Foveaux Strait. It is a roughly triangular island with a total land area of 1,746 square kilometres. Its 164 kilometres coastline is deeply creased by Paterson Inlet (east), Port Pegasus (south) and Mason Bay (west). Stewart Island is sparsely populated­­ – around 400 people, most of whom live in the settlement of Oban at Half Moon Bay on the eastern side of the island.

The island’s economy is dependent on summer tourism and fishing. Hunting parties regularly visit the island, seeking whitetail and red deer. Ferries connect the settlement to Bluff on the Mainland and an airfield allows flights between Oban and Invercargill. About 80 percent of the island is set aside as the Rakiura National Park, New Zealand’s newest national park.

I spent a week or so knocking around various parts of the island in a mate’s launch some years ago. We had an overlap between the bluff oyster and the scallop season and a couple of divers on board who kept us supplied with these delicious shellfish. This area is one of the blue cod heartlands. We limited ourselves to what five hungry adults could eat, fished with 125g metal jigs sporting single hooks and stuck to a self-imposed minimum of two kilo fish. Result: we got in about ten minutes fishing every second day! Incredible fishing.

There were good numbers of big tarakihi in water as shallow as four metres, along with heaps of schoolie trumpeter, too. We never tried for groper, but I am sure there would have been plenty out a bit wider off the coast.

Stewart Island is renowned for its paua, too, and some of New Zealand’s largest recorded shells – in the 200mm class – have come from here. Albacore tuna can be found around the island and southern bluefin tuna sometimes transit Foveaux Strait, or south of the island in warmer years. There are heaps of crayfish, too…

Stewart Island's seafood bonanza includes blue cod, scallops, oysters, paua and crayfish.

I think it is fair to say some of New Zealand’s best fishing is around its offshore islands. It may be a while before anyone is able to hop on a plane to foreign fishing spots to wet a line, but we have plenty of domestic ‘overseas’ hotspots to explore in the meantime.

	This article is reproduced with permission of    New Zealand Fishing News June 2020 - Sam Mossman Re-publishing elsewhere is prohibited