Mechanical jigging off a kayak part 2

In part one we looked at various equipment options for different jigging techniques and obviously you want to use the best available. The kayak angler has to multi-task and this can require specialist skills, plus good management of various other aspects. Learning and applying the fundamentals of good technique is as important as having a good rod and reel, or a decent kayak.

With the necessary equipment assembled, it’s time to focus on catching fish.

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Handling the kayak

Before covering the basics of how to work jigs, it is also worth considering how this technique applies to the kayak as a platform. The best way to fish with jigs is for the angler to place the ‘yak right over a good concentration of fish or bait that is likely to hold predatory species. Because mechanical jigging is quite physical, there is no point working a jig in places where few fish are showing on the sounder. That will only burn precious energy.

When you arrive at a location, start by looking around for fish concentrations on the fish finder. Next, set yourself up to drift over them using your chart-plotter to track the drift line/direction. After the first test drift, it may be necessary to adjust your position accordingly. Smaller drifts are much easier than longer, extended distances depending on the speed you are moving at.

Sometimes using a drift chute (drogue) to slow the kayak can prolong the time spent over fish concentrations. When mechanical jigging, a drogue can cause problems when hooked up on a big fish, potentailly entangling it or cutting off your line.

A large fish on the line, like a yellowtail kingfish towing the kayak around, will act differently to a similar fish hooked from a boat. With both vessels offering different dynamics, the boat allows the angler to apply much greater drag pressures, which tends to cause the fish to dive away in the opposite direction to the pull on the line. Often the fight comes down to a war of strength, with the fish doing its best to find something to break the line on.

With a kayak it’s a different story because it’s impossible to exert the same drag pressure. This can be to your advantage, causing the kingfish to act differently on the line.

While the drag should be set at less than you’d use fishing from a boat, it still needs to be as high as possible. Anywhere from 7-10kg is about right when playing the fish, with the higher end more applicable to anglers with good rod technique fishing from kayak models that offer greater stability. With the drag set just right, a kingfish will favour running horizontally because it’s much easier towing the kayak than pulling line off against the drag. The fish might still make runs towards the bottom, but when combined with towing the kayak around, it works to quickly tire out the fish.

Physical Fitness

Because of the physical nature of mechanical jigging a reasonable level of fitness is desirable. When jigging, make sure you have enough energy left in reserve for return journey back to shore. I’m not kidding! Building the upper body strength, including the arms, with physical work or lifting weights is beneficial when it comes to jigging, especially since you can only use your arms when sitting in a kayak. The large, powerful, hard-fighting fish targeted with this style of fishing will certainly test your strength to the limit.

Techniques

Jigs are a form of lure and like other fishing lures there are many ways they can be moved.

Most are variations on the primary technique that requires the angler to move the jig in an erratic darting motion at various speeds. From the kayak, it is necessary to use the arms and upper body to work the jig, which can take practice to coordinate. The following method applies when using a right-handed reel.

Start by placing the butt section of the rod under your left armpit so that it is well supported but free enough to allow for movement. When working the jig, keep the rod pointing ahead of you, as far as possible, supporting the rod with your left hand underneath the reel seat.

With the rod facing forward and pointing down to the water start by lifting the rod as high as possible. This causes the jig to dart upwards erratically and after a pause, lower the rod tip again. As you lower the rod tip, wind the handle one turn so the movements are synchronised. Repeat this until you have the jig up through the fish and then lower (free-spool) it again and repeat.

Practice by using slower actions in the beginning, putting the emphasis on synchronising your rod and reel movements. Once you have this sorted, speed things up and vary the movements until you come up with your own preferred style. Done correctly, the risk of slack line and potential tip-wrapping is low.

I’ve noticed the more experienced anglers do not always catch the fish – sometimes it’s the less finetuned action of a beginner that out-fishes them. Although some beginners to jigging are successful despite having a less polished technique, it is often their correct primary action that accounts for their success. Loose, unorthodox techniques work fine on days when the fish are more than happy to jump on your hook, but a refined technique will always win out whenever fish prove harder to get.

Perseverance is another factor to being successful, and like any fishing practice, patience is often the key.

Depth and current

One of the most common misconceptions about mechanical jigging is that you need to be in deep water to enjoy success. Experience has shown me the opposite is true. It is possible to use jigs in water as shallow as 10-15m, though you’ll have to use jigs that sink more slowly.

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Selecting a smaller, lighter jig is one option, although certain shapes provide actions that flutter more, so it’s often still possible to use larger lures. These jigs will hang in the water column for longer.

Pelagic species like kingfish prefer areas with fast-moving water, which makes kayak handling tricky. It’s best not to go into places like this unless you are confident and have experience. If you are unsure, then pair up with other kayak anglers, especially experienced ones.

In fast current areas jigs and whenever the kayak’s drift speed is fast, the jig can end up well away from the angler, creating line angle greater than 45 degrees. This is not ideal – and the situation is made worse by wind. It is, therefore, better to visit current areas when little or no wind is forecast.

Locations

There are many locations around the country perfect for mechanical jigging. They can be found close to shore in shallow water, as well as out deep further offshore. Finding the best types of terrain is quite important. Reefs, headlands, current lines and pinnacles are good places to start.

To find likely places for mechanical jigging, study marine charts, as they will give you an indication of the features below the surface. Then go and explore them using a fish finder to locate fish.

Over time your skills will develop, to the point where you are tuned in to what looks ideal for jigging success. Lastly, trust those gut feelings as they will serve you well.

Species

It is surprising how many species can be enticed to bite by mechanical jigging. Kingfish is one of the primary target species, though, and generally they will be caught using the longer type jigs of 150g or more, depending on the depth. In deeper water many other species, like groper/ hapuku, can be caught on jigs.

In a situation where you may encounter less active species that live on or close to the sea floor, it is necessary to modify the standard technique. Introduce some slow lifts of the jig before you start the retrieve through the water column.

Most predatory species will take interest in jigs and it is not uncommon to hook species like snapper. Other jig eaters include hapuku, bass, bluenose, golden snapper, kahawai, trevally and even tuna at times. Remember that each species will react to jigs in a different way, so study their habits then figure out how to present jigs to these fish to increase your success rate.

Finding the fish

Using a fish finder is crucial to consistent success when mechanical jigging. Without one you are fishing blind, which means the jig could be working in zones devoid of fish. Most predatory fish prefer locations with plenty of food close by, so a good place to start is around large bait fish schools. These are usually shown on the fish finder as a dense mass and can be just above the seafloor, in mid-water or close to the surface.

Kingfish show up on the screen as long lines that are either straight or slightly arched. When they are in a school you will see many lines close together; around bait schools look for individual fish around them. The fish finder allows you to locate kingfish around the baitfish school and by studying it closely it is possible to place the jig right in front of them. Modern fish finders also have a jigging mode built in that allows you to watch the jig in motion, plus lets you see a fish moving towards the jig.

Mechanical jigging has proven to be another successful way to catch fish from a kayak. With the correct gear and preparation, mechanical jigging can produce results to a level that will have you addicted.

Once the technique is mastered and success achieved, species like kingfish will become something you target successfully instead of catching by chance and the fast-paced, full-on action associated with this technique will ensure it always has a place in your kayak fishing arsenal.

   This article is reproduced with permission of   
New Zealand Fishing News

June 2018 - Rob Fort
Re-publishing elsewhere is prohibited

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