Transporting fishing kayaks is really a two-part story.
Part one is the obvious getting to and from fishing destinations. The usual answers here are either roof racks or trailers. Part two is getting a fully-laden kayak to and from the water’s edge.
When moving a fishing kayak in this situation, we are dealing with the fully-laden weight of the rigged kayak, plus removable accessories, tackle, bait, food and drink. On the return we will also have to contend with the weight of our catch (hopefully). On occasion I’ve had this alone amount to more than 45kg, even though I’ve only had three or four fish aboard!
Given we are contending with a combined weight too scary to measure, we only have two practical options to get our craft to the water without damage: multiple trips carrying everything by hand or using a trundler. Yes, it’s possible for two people to carry laden kayaks with an end each, but I, for one, have a problem where some of my ‘buddies’ flatly refuse to help – something about not being able to paddle properly with one arm longer than the other!
Seriously though, as I’ve got older and a little less crazy (yep, that’s a joke too!), I’ve decided that if a manual carry is more than about 20 staggers, I’ll use a trundler. The only time I’ll accept having to put up with a carry is if there isn’t trundler access within an hour’s paddling. I have no problem driving several kilometres further and paddling the extra distance to save having to carry my kayak.
Trundlers
So what are we looking for when choosing a kayak trundler? Like many other kayaking accessories, there are a variety of options available. To date I haven’t seen the ideal trundler for ALL situations, but I’ve seen a number of very good ones. Choosing between them is based on individual preference and particular requirements.
Before rushing out and buying the latest toy or doing the DIY thing at the back of the garage, consider your real requirements. If possible, beg, borrow or otherwise acquire a couple of trundlers to try. The relative ease or difficulty of loading your kayak aboard and then dragging it over the countryside (especially across soft sand) is often extremely enlightening.
Also, as previously discussed when talking about the impact of modern kayak design on road transportation, we have to pay attention to not denting or otherwise changing the kayak’s hull shape as we move it. We do have more latitude with trundlers, since a kayak isn’t going to (or shouldn’t) remain on them for extended periods, but let’s look after our pride and joy as best we can.
I tend to group ready-made trundlers into three classes: budget; lightweight; and heavy duty. Home-built trundlers I consider separately, as they’re custom designed, and hopefully the builder has created a tool to specifically meet his requirements. I have no intention of criticising the efforts of these closet engineers – Kiwi ingenuity rules! Rather, my comments are designed to assist when choosing from the range of commercial product available.
So saying, if building a trundler for yourself, don’t compromise. Spend the time to properly design and build it, and use quality components. Built correctly to suit your needs, such a trundler will make shifting a heavy kayak almost pleasant. A poorly designed unit will only add to effort and frustration. The worst-case scenario is a trundler that lets you down badly – even damages your pride and joy. I’ve seen this sour even the most spectacular of fishing trips.
Budget trundlers
This ‘class’ of trundler is usually a compromise in two significant areas. The first is the quality of the wheels. These are often of the small, thin, cheap, solid-plastic type. While they work, they tend to wear quickly, don’t like soft sand and, since they are solid, tend to shake and jar the kayak and all the accessories on board when used on the road or rocks.
The second compromise occurs in the shape and the associated carry method. Budget trundlers usually use what I term the ‘H frame’ design, or are based around the post and scupper-hole carry method. Put simply, the trundler has two posts standing up from the axle, designed to match a pair of scupper holes in a sit-on-top kayak.
I have a number of problems with this design. The first is the difficulty in correctly locating a heavy fishing kayak on the posts. Since dive-well or seating scupper-holes are generally well in from the stern of the kayak, it can be very difficult lifting your fish-laden kayak and correctly locating the trundler in the holes underneath. Yes, with two people it’s not too hard, but it’s not always possible to have someone around to help.
The second problem is the inflexibility of the locating points. Since scupper holes are required for this type of trundler to work, its location under the hull is limited to where these are found. This makes it difficult to balance the kayak on the trundler to reduce the carry load for the paddler. Again, the reason for using a trundler is to reduce the amount of effort we need to exert. Why compromise this?
Another major problem is the risk of damage to the scupper holes themselves. These are generally among the thinnest sections of any kayak, and regularly bumping trundler posts through them is going to create wear. I’ve had several kayaks over the years requiring repair welds inside scupper holes due to this type of trundler. And since, by their very design, scupper holes are at or below water level, I consider risking a leak unacceptable.
The third problem I have is that this style of trundler usually fits only one model of kayak (it must match the scupper holes). This means that on any given trip a trundler must be carried for each different kayak type, increasing the amount of gear stowed in the transport vehicle or trailer. The trundlers I use are of a universal design, allowing us to use one trundler to shift all the kayaks on the expedition.
Despite all this criticism, the post and scupper-hole design does have one redeeming feature: properly fitted kayaks cannot slide off, regardless of terrain. This isn’t an insurmountable problem with other designs, but the ease by which this style of trundler keeps a kayak attached when going cross-country (provided scupper holes aren’t damaged!) may be the only reason other than price for considering them.
Lightweight trundlers
Into this class of trundler, I group all those designed to be light in weight and collapsible. They range from the C-Tug injection-moulded trundler to those like the Humble Trolley that have an elegantly simple design. Generally speaking, the simpler and lighter in weight they are, the more expensive they become.
I don’t have a problem with this. I’m aware of how much some manufacturers have spent on designing their trundlers, and they must recoup their costs. I also get the privilege of minimising weight and load space, making it a practical option to stow a trundler aboard my kayak while on the water. Dismantled, such trundlers also occupy minimal space in the car when on holiday.
The only factor to be aware of with this style of trundler is load capacity. Add together a 30kg kayak, 40kg of accessories and tackle, and 30kg of bait or catch, and you get a gross weight of 100kg. These are just round numbers for the sake of example (my ‘yak is going to be considerably heavier!), but you can see how quickly kayak weight can become a factor. Some of the trundlers on the market are designed for light touring kayaks and simply aren’t meant to carry these sorts of loads on rough ground.
Heavy-duty trundlers
This is my favourite class of trundler. Large wheeled and heavy framed, with large pads to support the kayak, they are not intended to be collapsed and stowed aboard. What they do well is properly distribute the gross weight of a heavily laden kayak over a large hull area, and the large pneumatic tyres enable us to cross soft sand and rough terrain. Also, we’re able to balance the kayak and its load, placing all the weight on the trundler. This makes the kayak much easier to wheel around.
For some, the non-collapsible design is a problem, and that’s fair enough. For my style of kayaking though, I find that my trips are always ‘return to base’ (i.e. I’m always returning to where I launched from). A quick trip back to the vehicle to lock away the trundler or the use of a bicycle lock to secure it to a handy post or tree isn’t a problem, especially when I consider the ease of shifting my heavy kayak.
Bearings vs. Bushings
I’m often asked if bearings or bushings are preferred. For me bushes are usually the way to go. They are easy to maintain, do an adequate job, and are inexpensive to replace. The only exception is when I borrow a quad bike to make shifting my kayaks across country easier. In this situation bushes quickly burn out, so sealed bearings are essential (yeah, it’s cheating, but it’s so much fun watching the looks of disgust on my mates’ faces!).
Shoulder straps
Just a quick note on making kayaks easier to carry or tow when using a trundler cross-country: use a wide (preferably padded) webbing shoulder-strap with snap clips. For a single-person carry, this is adjusted between two attachment points at the side of the cockpit, allowing the kayak to be carried like a shoulder bag. For a two-person carry, a shoulder strap is fitted at each end of the kayak to help stop stretching valuable paddling arms.
When using a trundler, the shoulder strap is fitted diagonally across your body, allowing you to really lean into the tow. Great comedy on a wet clay track, but it does help in less slippery conditions.
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This article is reproduced with permission of
New Zealand Fishing News
Nov 2007 - by Steve Tapp
RE-PUBLISHING ELSEWHERE IS PROHIBITED
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