Sry have internet / computer issues.. 3 attempts at an anser and dropped it... and dont have spellhecker, so please be tollerant to my dysexia issues... fixed where I can, I think.
Well hopefully the Svord has the right steel, given what I paid for it compared to the Victory knives! It's carbon steel, and I look after it with oil etc.
Yep svord is good steel, and victory is to ...but have to match the right knife/ steel/ edge to the use and application.
Victory is a quailty bulk supply to industry...an industry where long time ago chefs, barbars, capenters, butchers etc knife care, sharpening , the metallury, and suplying their own knives, chisels was part of trader cert.
Some people on the forum have rubbished Svord but I suspect they didn't grasp the fact that it had a different shaped blade and ended up making the convex edge blunt by trying to sharpen in the normal way - when it requires a totally different method.
My take on it also.. see paragraph above..and these days these trades no longer know or have the skills, or need to. Their knives, scissors are sent away for shapening..and are more designed now to saw than slice.
The idea with the mouse pad (basically, hard foam/neoprene material) is that it 'gives' when you gently wipe the blade over the sandpaper.
Cool never thought about doing it like that, mouse/ neoprene pad rather than suspension .. like a belt sander.
I think I got the blade reasonably sharp at one stage, then made it worse the more I tried, and ended up with a very dull edge.
I rem having that issue when 1st learning, or got lazy.. its caused because you dont form a burr EVERY time before movinfg to other side, or finer grit.
regardles of edge type, and method..a burr must be formed, and burr gets finer and finer.
EG a 22 deg fine kitchen knife, angles vary for use and steel type.
One starts with coarse, form a burr around 18/19 deg...repeat other side, then again but little more than the weight of the blade this time.. both sides.
Next finer grit repeat above but at 20/21deg.
next finer grit repeat at the 22/22 deg then a 3rd wipe from the back of the blade only as in convex sharpening, with little or no weight.
I repeat a burr must be raised every time and the last wipe the microscopic burr is straightened out
Then one may wish to move to a leather strop..a fine and coarse, which then 'polishes' the final edge.
This can only be done IF the steel is of type to do so... eg very hard cut throat razor steels.
Cheaper type stainless and high carbon stainless are designed not to have a polished edge .. but 'work' by having the microscopic carbon crystals fall out of the edge leaving a 'saw' with 'teeth' sharp as broken glass...these sharpen very easy on those V pull thru sharpeners...which by nature leave a rough and broken sharp saw edge. They will sharpen with a burr, but the burr is fradgial, and breaks off leaving a very wide blunt edge.
In saying that.. saw edges are excellent for cutting ropes, cloth....polished burr edges butchery, chisels, axes, chain saws.
Fine edges 22 deg and below, carving meat, veggies, fish filleting knife tip and end, chain saw on soft woods... steeper edges 30/35 deg...where abuse takes place.. manukua, gum, sheoak puriri, aka aka hardwods with chain saw... the hilt edge of a fish filleting knife where goes thru bones.
Dont go for super sharp .. go forthe edge that the knife and knife steel is going to be used for.
Hope this helps.
My working knives
Kitchen. 1 1970 carbon steel gren river skining knife and a carving knife, 3 new world/ pams $5 pairing knives. Bait knives same
Filleting knives 1 SS victory semi .. going to replace with a green longer stiffer on.. Green river fine filleting knife
Belt pouch a Gerber folding bush skining knife.
Garden.. the burkely and another know brand bait knives been relegated there.
Hope this helps.