Specifications of reels

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    Posted: 14 Dec 2017 at 6:41pm
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Is it significant that a Chinese brand sold on Aliexpress for a overhead slow jig reel claims to have 9+2 bb and 20kg of drag but an Okuma with a 5 year warranty has only 4 and 11kg of drag.
I well know the story of "You get what you pay for" but the Chinese one is not cheap relative to other Chinese brands. However, I am asking for opinions and has anyone got anything positive to say about some of these Chinese reels
CheersStern Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote KikBac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2017 at 8:14pm
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Unfortunately there is no specification for a reel and manufacturers can pretty much claim what they like. Most reputable manufacturers will quote max drag with a full spool but some manufacturers quote max drag with an empty spool. At empty spool the amount of force required to pull line (i.e. drag) is multiplied 3 fold. Both are technically correct but I would take manufacturers claiming huge drag numbers with a grain of salt...

Trust this helps.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote muchalls Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2017 at 9:03pm
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Yeah, from experience, you get what you pay for.
Shimano Curado baitcasters, pretty good and durable.
Calcutta, better still but extra $$$$
Omoto baitcaster? Drag was rough after a few big fish...
No name Chinese? Your money, not mine.

The number of bearings is not that relevant, and at lower prices, probably a negative as I doubt they would be good quality.
Of course, I upgraded my Curado and Calcutta to Boca orange seal,ceramics for the spool.....

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote muchalls Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2017 at 9:19pm
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That said, I bought a 8 wt fly reel for around $20, go figure!
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If you think about the drag numbers
 big drag good to pull a fish off the foul.. but you try to keep a full drag on for a long time...
 big numbers dont always relate to practicability...more to the end use application..
 Number bearings.. bearing are better than bush.. IF they are quality , correct type stainless for marine environments..
In saying that you will still find mid to higher end branded reels will still have quality bushes in many places...
 Then keep in mind, these higher quality bearings bushes must be careed for  oiled and greased, serviced.
Then there is other stuff, like the quality of the spool, and the quality of the gear steels, and the quality of the cutting of those gears.
 Then there is the quality , materials, weight, design and machining of the body
 And the quaity of the reel, espec casting reels makes a huge difference to casting.. even between say a shamano 4000 oc and the thunnus.

Head to a local shop, pick up say a lower mid range say shamano 6000 oc.. ($170 range)feel how it spins , the smoothness
 Then compare to the feel of say a thunnus ($320)
 Then a stella ($1000+)
Then say a a thunnus

 Then go back and have a feel of.. the weight balance and movement of the reels you are looking at.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote AdAstra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2017 at 2:52pm
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Thanks to you all for the info.
I guess I had made my mind up about what I was going to buy before I posted on it.
I wanted to know what others thought.
Probably different if you could get a hands on. But buying blind is a risky business and would not like my chances should something be wrong/go wrong of getting Mr Chinaman to remedy itApprove
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote AdAstra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2017 at 2:55pm
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PS. Looking to get the Okuma Metaloid 5NS
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote muchalls Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2017 at 6:36pm
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Just sold a 5s as it didn't suit my lefty style. They are however beautifully crafted small lever drag reels.
Bought a Poseidon 200
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Originally posted by muchalls muchalls wrote:

That said, I bought a 8 wt fly reel for around $20, go figure!


I need one of those! Was it any good?

Best gurnard fisherman in my street
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote muchalls Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2017 at 7:42pm
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It looks ok, not sealed, but not tried it.

From Wish app.
Machining looks ok, it has drag and spins ok.






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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote muchalls Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2017 at 8:57pm
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Er......9-10 wt....
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote FishMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2017 at 6:10am
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Interesting... looks like an almost direct copy of the Okuma Helios:


A good reel in its day, but had a non-sealed drag of inadequate surface area and a little clicker inside the drag mechanism that would break at inopportune moments on fish like bonefish and tuna.

It will be amusing to see how long a $20 Shocked copy lasts!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote KikBac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2017 at 8:31am
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Originally posted by AdAstra AdAstra wrote:

PS. Looking to get the Okuma Metaloid 5NS

A very good review of this reel here:
http://www.fishing.net.nz/forum/reelguts-okuma-metaloid-5ns-a-c-bearing-mod_topic117194.html
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OuttaHere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 11:59am
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As above, drag can sometimes be rated with a full spool, empty spool, or somewhere in the middle. Some manufacturers just make it up (i.e. some of the chinese ones) or the pressure required on other components to make the reel produce the quoted drag will damage the reel. 
A good example would be the Shimano TLD30; these can be easily modified to produce huge drag numbers but you will crush the pinion bearing very quickly and then the foot will snap off the reel before you reach the limits of the drag.
Likewise with spinning reels; often the drag stack in the spool will produce the quoted numbers but the rotor will look like a banana to the extent that it either doesn't spin right or actually makes contact with the spool; example would be the Baitrunner 8000D (and OC for that matter) which is spec'd for 9kg of drag, which I genuinely believe the drag stack will produce without much trouble, however the flex in the rotor becomes a problem beyond about 6.5kg.
(Edit: I don't want to look like I'm hating on Shimano, they're just 2 common reels that spring to mind, lots of reels have these issues)

As for the ball bearings, Steps kinda covered it - a cheap ball bearing literally costs a few cents, and the cheap reels with lots of bearings have them scattered all over the place, like having 2 bearings in the handle (or 4 if it's a baitcaster with a paddle-style handle...) but if they're low-quality bearings it's just more things that will fail. There are a lot of older incredibly bullet-proof reels (think Penn Longbeach) that just use bushings in most of the positions and are nearly indestructible, even if treated poorly, although they will never be as smooth as a ball-bearing reel.

As an aside, yes, the Metaloid 5Ns is a great little reel for the money. I reckon they're best used as a 20-30lb reel; mine was OK as a light 50lb jigging reel but it's really nice to fish with 20lb braid.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 12:24pm
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Dont know enough, but understand clearly the mechanics, about a lot of what Roz says above.

example would be the Baitrunner 8000D (and OC for that matter) which is spec'd for 9kg of drag, which I genuinely believe the drag stack will produce without much trouble, however the flex in the rotor becomes a problem beyond about 6.5kg.

 I have wondered... yes the issue of full or MT spool.. huge difference.. but also if the rod is up or down makes a huge difference..
 Where is the 'official' drag taken from?
 Straight off the end of a rod, basically rod pointing at the fish or rod up ?
 Ever noticed most fish bust off.. line knot whatever, when the rod is higher?
 Fish pulls, rod drops, the gets tweaked up, even a little, 1/8 or 1/4 turn, then lifted up, that drag increase may 3 or 4 times... snap.. That "9kg" and lets say 35 kg braid , 30lb fluro, just turned into well over main or trace rating.
 And that no taking into account how full (or MT ) the spool is.

 As it happens, a crew last friday lost by far his PB by doing just that, shortly after telling him not to.. The rod / real was pre set on scales before going out.. put a full 1/2 turn on the drag, then lifted..

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote AdAstra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 3:55pm
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Valuable and informative info gained as a result of my question.
Many thanks.
Have purchased the Metaloid 5NS with the Okuma 6'3"50-150g Tournament Concept rod.
Hope to 'blood' them sometime soonBig smile
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OuttaHere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 2017 at 10:38am
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Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

Dont know enough, but understand clearly the mechanics, about a lot of what Roz says above.

example would be the Baitrunner 8000D (and OC for that matter) which is spec'd for 9kg of drag, which I genuinely believe the drag stack will produce without much trouble, however the flex in the rotor becomes a problem beyond about 6.5kg.

 I have wondered... yes the issue of full or MT spool.. huge difference.. but also if the rod is up or down makes a huge difference..
 Where is the 'official' drag taken from?
 Straight off the end of a rod, basically rod pointing at the fish or rod up ?
 Ever noticed most fish bust off.. line knot whatever, when the rod is higher?
 Fish pulls, rod drops, the gets tweaked up, even a little, 1/8 or 1/4 turn, then lifted up, that drag increase may 3 or 4 times... snap.. That "9kg" and lets say 35 kg braid , 30lb fluro, just turned into well over main or trace rating.
 And that no taking into account how full (or MT ) the spool is.

 As it happens, a crew last friday lost by far his PB by doing just that, shortly after telling him not to.. The rod / real was pre set on scales before going out.. put a full 1/2 turn on the drag, then lifted..


As far as I know the drag output measurement doesn't include the rod at all.

I have no doubt that the effective load required to pull line from the reel increases as the rod is lifted; lots of factors but especially the quality of the guides. The amount it increases is proportional to the drag; at light drag it should be minimal while at heavy drag it could be a lot, roller guides should minimise this by reducing friction.

If you want to fight the fish purely with the drag, point the rod at it. This has the side benefit of protecting the rod from breakage if you want to use a whole lot of drag, say to tow a fish away from structure. A lot of japanese anglers fishing super light jigging rods do this as the rods have very little fighting "lift" so the fish is fought almost entirely with the drag and line is gained by pulling the rod parallel to the line rather than lifting.


Anyway, glad we could be of help anyway. The 5Ns is a great little reel and those new Tournament Concept rods seem like excellent value for money.
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