Stiff or seized steering?

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote CanadianJohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2017 at 7:33pm
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only know to do that cause lethal posted it years ago. learn lots of you smart buggers on this site.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote smudge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2017 at 7:54pm
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Originally posted by CanadianJohn CanadianJohn wrote:

smudge, what is the tilt tube?


It is the hollow pin that the motor pivots on when you trim it. The steering cable rod goes inside it. They usually rust on the inside and the grease nipple lubes where the motor pivots, not the steering rod.
Best gurnard fisherman in my street
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote CanadianJohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2017 at 8:03pm
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thanks smudge, i googled it! thought it was called something else.

mine was fine inside with lots of clearance and no corrosion.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote krow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2017 at 8:28pm
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If your cable is anything like mine it has seized because the owner pre me was greasing it with normal grease. Each new grease pushes the old grease up further and further and as it drys out it locks onto the cable. The cable is SS so won't rust unless you have damaged the outer sheath and that will rust and cause binding to the inner as it swells up. That was why I eventually replaced mine some 10+ years after I freed it up. Now I finally get to the point. I did like you have done and hung it from the ceiling for days without much action. The trick is to spin the old grease out. Slowly and manually at first I spun the internal cable, as it could turn slightly more freely I got bored and hooked it up to the cordless drill and near instant success. You just have to work out what way is the correct way to spin it. From memory it was anti clockwise spinning from the helm end. I then cleaned out more residue by flushing with petrol.
Post up how you get on.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote CanadianJohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2017 at 8:40pm
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yeah i tightened it in the chuck of my cordless before hanging it. tried a bit one way then the other. not go. it seems to be seized at the outboard end of the cable. will try again tomorrow.

from memory it was just oil that people have put down the cable. but could be wrong, might have been something else that penetrates better. will google it bit tomorrow. 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Big -Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2017 at 9:56pm
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Some cables will have a grease nipple just outside of the nut that jolds it on to the tilt tube. Remove it and get oil in there.
Otherwise, you need to do it from the helm end
I still think the safest option is a replacement cable, quick, clean and guaranteed results.
you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote CanadianJohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2017 at 10:01pm
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will be getting a new cable tomorrow. made absolutely no progress with it today.!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Woody Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2017 at 11:15pm
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I was told putting antifreeze up the cables helps.
Mine steering aldo gets harx to turn sometimes. Also check it before i head out and once a month give it a turn lwft and right
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote CanadianJohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2017 at 11:23pm
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shame previous owner didn't do something as the cable is otherwise fine.
ah well, guess a new cable will give peice of mind. and of course what else would i rather do on my day off?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 8:55am
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shame previous owner didn't do something as the cable is otherwise fine.

 So you have it back in and checked for overall play?
ie how much it takes turning the wheel before the motor moves...
 A good cable / helm will have a little over an inch.

To check the helm only play...cable hooked in the back and clamped up...the cover over the tail end off.. hold tight.. pliers with rag protecting cable... move the wheel.. there should be no play before the cable tail moves.

I mentioned above that made a thread not long ago.. has everything you need to check how to, measuring greasing maintenance etc in it... and forum search button above.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote CanadianJohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 9:03am
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the cable is seized completely so i can feel the play in the helm. it is minimal. inhave had the same setup on another mac 420 whoch i bought new and remember how much play there was in the helm.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote CanadianJohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2017 at 4:38pm
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for anyone needing to replace thier cable and worried its not a DIY job ........

HAVE NO FEAR!!

.......because its not that hard. two or three tricky parts but if i can do it anyone can.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Cobar8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2019 at 9:01am
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For the cost of a screw to the rim "

TR43E Metal Clamp-in Tubeless Tyre Tire Wheel Schrader Valve"

a couple of meters of good qual garden hose, a tire pump or compressor and a couple of hose clamps, you can reliably and quickly lubricate a steering cable.

1. remove cable from helm.
2. stick garden hose over the steering cable inner rod, then get the garden hose over the steering coupling.
3. hose clamp the garden hose to steering cable outer
4. mostly fill the garden hose with your chosen lubricant or solvent. (I used kerosene and SAE30 successfully)
5.push the schrader valve into the other end of the garden hose.
6. use your pump / compressor to pressurize the garden hose.


You can hear liquid squeezing thru the steering cable, and ultimately very dirty liquid comes out at the tilt tube end.

This method allows the motor to be moved from side to side, speeding up the cleaning re-oiling process.

I tried the gravity feed way for days but to no avail.



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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote ofthesea Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2019 at 10:05pm
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For some of these situations its just better to get a new cable. Old ones bust and that can be awkward. 
Another suggestion is to simply keep it moving. If I haven't been out for a while I give the outboard a bit of a turn - the steering not the motor
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote smudge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 6:18am
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Often it is the tilt tube that is gunked up and not the cable. Once you have done this the way Cobar has suggested I'd be doing it on a regular basis - at least once a year - as whatever they put on the cable during assembly lasts really well.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 10:44am
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As smudge describes, that is where the 'seize' up, rather than further up.
Its caused by lack on routine maintenance.. Salt gets inside the tube then crystallises, and drys replacing any lubricant.
A good soaking for a few hrs with a CRC type product, the working it once starts moving...adding more 'crc' as draw the end in, and wipe as comes out.

I have removed the end of my steering, removed the screw cap and added a couple neoprene O rings to seal from moisture.
Every so often , without removing from engine, wind the cap of, extend to end right out, add a smear of QUALITY BRAND NAME BLUE (not red) marine grade grease... and keep adding as it end is drawn back in.
Slide the O rings up, screw the cap back on.
 And while at it hit the grease nipples ,throttle cable/ gear cables  and linkages joints and shafts.


If one reads the instructions, regular lubrication with quality materials is required.
 If use the elcheapo red shed type 'marine' grease, it very quickly turns to a hard clay like substance.
Hence why I use Evinrude triple guard Blue... and the red for wheel bearings.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Alan L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 2:37pm
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I recently removed the cables from both my boats. One was stiff/seized after sitting many months. Hung it in the shed with a piece of tube clamped over the steering box outer cable end. Filled with oil. Yes it took ages - several days. But pumping the cable back and foward periodically helped - 10-20mm at first was all I could do. After a few days it was free the whole length of travel. Had not thought of elec drill. The outer cable is now full of oil. Hopefully that helps. So did 2nd boat as precaution. Have also made up a bracket that bolts on to the steering yoke of the motor. It is predrilled etc so I can attach the gaff and tiller steer if needed. Why?? Because once I had a cable let go internally, with no warning - no heavy steering etc. Just working one moment, free wheeling wheel the next. Not ideal with a surf and reef to negotiate to get home. Got it covered now.
Alan
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