3700GPH for 2 Tuna Tubes? Really?

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    Posted: 21 Jan 2018 at 9:57am
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Hi All, 

I am fitting two tuna tubes on a trailer boat and trying to get my head around the pump requirements. 

Do I really need 3700GPH for this (pic below)?  That would be 14,000 litres per hour or 233 litres per minute??? (divided by two tubes). 

Keen to hear from those that have successfully kept tuna alive for the day and what they have? I see a few posts where people have used the 1600GPH Bronze Tournament Rule Pumps but cant find them online here (NZ).

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Cocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan 2018 at 10:06am
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Have just fitted a Rule 1600 lph thru hull. Struggling two lift water to top of tube . A lot of head pressure. Replacing with 3700gph
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I use 2 of these (3700) to feed 4 tubes and I wouldn't want any less. You may get away with less for 2 tubes but I think it will get marginal unless you only ever store small skippies. One thing to watch for on a trailer boat is that the pump current draw added to all your electronics etc may start to push the limits of your charging system at trolling speeds depending on what power plant you are running.
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I think the general rule of thumb is 1500 GPH for two tubes.

I have also heard bad things about Rule pumps not being able to last the distance, overheating and burning out, I will see what more info I can dig out...
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BM - a few considerations. I assume the bronze based pumps are for direct mounting to the hull. If you have an aluminium boat don't use one. If fiberglass or wood hull then fine. I assume that you will have something like a meter or so of head to the overflow point on your tubes? If so that drops a 1600gph pump to probably around 1200gph in a perfect world. Then split that between 2 tubes and you get maybe 600gph with perfect voltage and no parasitic drag on the pick up (they say not to use a scoop as it can damage the pump). Real world after bends in pipes and some pickup losses and allowing for the head etc you could easily be down around 20 - 25lpm for each tube and that doesn't sound like a lot to keep a half decent tuna alive.
There are other calculations that suggest that you will get close to enough flow velocity over the tune to keep them alive with only 600gph per tube, but in our warmer conditions (lower oxygen levels) my feeling is that you will probably soon be wishing you had bought the bigger pump.
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I have two tubes each hooked up with a 1100 gph rule bilge pumps works really well and a lot cheaper option for the pumps
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Thanks for all the feedback ^^^^. It's gold!
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Originally posted by Tagit Tagit wrote:

BM - a few considerations. I assume the bronze based pumps are for direct mounting to the hull. If you have an aluminium boat don't use one. If fiberglass or wood hull then fine. I assume that you will have something like a meter or so of head to the overflow point on your tubes? If so that drops a 1600gph pump to probably around 1200gph in a perfect world. Then split that between 2 tubes and you get maybe 600gph with perfect voltage and no parasitic drag on the pick up (they say not to use a scoop as it can damage the pump). Real world after bends in pipes and some pickup losses and allowing for the head etc you could easily be down around 20 - 25lpm for each tube and that doesn't sound like a lot to keep a half decent tuna alive.
There are other calculations that suggest that you will get close to enough flow velocity over the tune to keep them alive with only 600gph per tube, but in our warmer conditions (lower oxygen levels) my feeling is that you will probably soon be wishing you had bought the bigger pump.


Thanks for this mate. I will go with the 3700. I have now realised I have no idea what I'm up to setting it all up!!
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Originally posted by Tagit Tagit wrote:

I use 2 of these (3700) to feed 4 tubes and I wouldn't want any less. You may get away with less for 2 tubes but I think it will get marginal unless you only ever store small skippies. One thing to watch for on a trailer boat is that the pump current draw added to all your electronics etc may start to push the limits of your charging system at trolling speeds depending on what power plant you are running.


Re the charging system output - is there anyway to work this out? All new to me....
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Alan L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan 2018 at 2:55pm
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Depending what motor you are running, (outboard?) it is specified with the motor - ie a query with the agent (model No ) will get you the answer. And there is usually a high output option which can be fitted.
If inboard, then it will depend on the Gen specs - may be written on it? - rated in Amps.
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What engine & hull do you have? Model and year? Some later gen outboards have alternators that get close to full output at modest rpms but some older ones don't produce a lot until you get the rpm's up. Should be able to get at least some basic specs online.
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Originally posted by Tagit Tagit wrote:

What engine & hull do you have? Model and year? Some later gen outboards have alternators that get close to full output at modest rpms but some older ones don't produce a lot until you get the rpm's up. Should be able to get at least some basic specs online.



Thanks.

It's a 2009 Surtees Hardtop with a 2009 Yamaha 90hp 2 stroke. Isolator switch thing on the batteries - house/accessories.

I will do some googling.

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Originally posted by Alan L Alan L wrote:

Depending what motor you are running, (outboard?) it is specified with the motor - ie a query with the agent (model No ) will get you the answer. And there is usually a high output option which can be fitted.
If inboard, then it will depend on the Gen specs - may be written on it? - rated in Amps.
Alan


Cheers Alan.
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There you unfortunately have a problem BM. 10amp seems really low output for a 90hp engine but the 2 strokes tended to have more primitive alternator setups. I would try to double check that number but if that is correct you might only have 5 to 7 amps at trolling rpms and next to nothing at live bait speeds. It wouldn't run a 16amp pump without flattening your battery. 
You could go for maybe a single tube and run a skippy on one side and a big jack mac or Koheru on the other from a live bait tank. Still wouldn't want this off your engine battery though so would be looking at a largish house battery on a VSR setup knowing that it will get run down during the day but that you can charge it from the mains over night. Say you are drawing 8 amps for a single tube pump and can budget maybe 2 amps average from the alternator after running your electronics etc then you lose 6 amps per hour. Allow say 8 hours of tube running and you need ~50A/H and to stop that battery getting killed each day you need to double that so ~100A/H house battery. To be safe I would probably try and go a bit larger if you have the space.

If you really want two tubes you could up the battery size and run a larger pump or the other alternative is to put 2 tubes on the smaller pump as you initially asked about and have valves in the feeds so you can run just 1 tube if you have a big skippy or 2 tubes if you have smaller skippies or some other smaller baits (can drop big Jack macs & Koheru etc into the tubes also. Might not give hours and hours of life to a pair of Skippies but could be a workable solution for your constraints.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Alan L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan 2018 at 6:23pm
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If your alternator is a 10A (quite feasible) that will be the low end of what may be available. you can probably upgrade that to around 20A. They fit a new system under the flywheel. Not a big job. just enquire with your yamaha service guy.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Alan L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan 2018 at 6:49pm
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Just looking at the pump specs you posted, you need a 30+A alternator. That maybe possible. Your agent will be able to tell you how high you can get as a charger unit. But clearly it is going to be marginal power wise. I'm guessing your trolling revs are around 2500+? In which case you will be close to full alternator output/charge.
But you are not going to have much leeway.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Alan L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan 2018 at 6:55pm
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If you end up at say 1000rpm with a big fish on for a few hrs, you will be sucking your batteries dry, to keep the tubes running.
Another option may be to run 2 half size pumps - one on each tube. Then you can drop one tube out if not needed. If you only have 1 tuna left and have to run two tubes - why not drop one out. Or if you are on reduced rpm for an extended period, maybe sacrifice one tube?
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Have a look on amazon for the pump .atm I think they are around $300-$320nzd landed.locally the cheapest I found was $520-$600
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Alan and Tagit - thanks heaps for the help. I've got some thinking to do!

Cheers
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