Howdy team,

RC1 wrote: no power, battery has a dead cell, may seem like it has power but it is possibly shot, had the same issue this weekwith another boat.

Not one to doubt you given your expertise but how does that explain the trim switch on the motor is working but the one on the remote isn't?

I reckon the battery is rooted. Went to go for a fish on the old man's boat a month or so back, Yamaha 40 2-stroke, tilted up and down fine, fishfinder was on doing it's bit, blah blah, turned the key to start and it did precisely nothing.

Thanks all. 

Thanks heaps Tagit. I'll report back as soon as I can get to the shed. 

I reckon the battery is rooted. Went to go for a fish on the old man's boat a month or so back, Yamaha 40 2-stroke, tilted up and down fine, fishfinder was on doing it's bit, blah blah, turned the key to start and it did precisely nothing.

 you will most properly find the sounder turned its self off due to the low voltage when crank.. or try to.
 Also a very common issue for this is not the battery, but rather someone has disconnected the battery while engine running.. electronic voltage regulators dont like that...which means battery doesnt get charged.. couple trips and get flat.

Its as said in above posts.. a matter of following the voltage...till there is none.

From what you have said so far I would start by pulling the key switch and checking for voltage there and whether it is making contact properly when the key is turned. As a quick check try quickly turning the key back and forward several times in case it is just a spot of corrosion on the contacts inside.

 And also check for voltage at the starter relay
 checking the circuit between key and relay

The ancillary electronics (spot light, GPS, VHF, pump etc.) are all working well
 Thats good.. those are on a different circuit...
 I assume they work with key on or off?
 So thats eliminated.

It has to be the ignition conection in the 703 remote box. If the engine tilts on the cowl switch but not at the remote ....and all lights etc are ok the battery must have decent voltage- it must be there. On my 115 removing the lanyard still allows the motor to tilt.

The short story is: I give up and will get a professional to look at it next year. There were quite a few corroded connections between the remotes and gauges, but after cleaning them up still no voltage at the remotes.

Do you hear the solenoid activating? One of the first things to try is that the terminal posts on the battery are clean and tight.

- battery terminal posts all good - turn key on and just hear a whirring,

 So you turn the key the starter mptor just "whirrs" spins , but doesnt engage?

On most starters you hasve the main battery terminal.
 and 2 other terminals.
 one is the solenoid terminal.. that part that 'throws' the bendex spring and gear into the engine fly wheel to turn it over..
 If solenoid doesnt work, and or the benex , spring mechanism is broken the motor will just "whrrr"

Generally , this happens intermittently a few times then dies, just a whirr..

If you jump (key off) with a screw driver, from the main battery terminal to one of the other thermals.
 and yeah you put a few amps so expect a good spark.
1/ the motor will just whirr.. that will be the motor terminal
2/ Get a solid click, will feel the gear being thrown inside... if doesnt then soliniod / bendex is broken.
 Any be anything from corrosion on the copper disc inside, ( couple $) to broken spring or bendex full of crap.