New idea for gunwale cables.

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    Posted: 15 Aug 2017 at 5:12pm
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Titanium
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Been re-laying some cables in the area under the gunwale which is packed.
On many alloy boats there is a return shape of alloy that initially the cables and steering is often placed.
Great at the start but as kit and kaboodle gets added that little return can't fit it all. Then we all start cabling to that loom to support the growing new one.

Well for that area I came up with a nifty simple no nuts or bolts solution.
You could use any tube style, rectangular, square or tube.
I used 2.8mm tubing that is about 50 mm in diameter.
I cut the length one centimetre short of the outside hull gap and allowed a one centimetre overhang of the return.
I then cut a slot through half the diameter of the tube which was the thickness of the gunwale alloy section, mine was 5 mm so I allowed a cut of 6 mm.
I have pics here that may help.
This now gives me the full width of the gunwale space to lay everything I need and more, gets you around those rod holders easily too.







Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MacSkipper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2017 at 5:43pm
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OK interesting nice way to keep wiring tidy, how do you hold the tubes in place?
Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MATTOO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2017 at 6:40pm
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The slot in the tube just sits down on gunwale upturn as per my sketch.
Gravity does the rest, very strong and seconds to install and remove by rotating tube or lifting up.
Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote smudge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2017 at 7:50pm
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Nice and simple Mattoo!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote kitno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2017 at 8:45pm
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That's clever Mattoo. Can I suggest a couple of small cuts at each end and turn it up 10mm to stop cables slipping off the ends.
Top 10 finish
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MATTOO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2017 at 9:31pm
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I was just cabling tying them in, but I see where your coming from.
I could also just keep the tube long enough so there is negligible gap and keep the construction process simple as.
Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote kitno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug 2017 at 9:35pm
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Or a self tapper screw each end not driven all the way in.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MacSkipper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2017 at 6:45am
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Originally posted by kitno kitno wrote:

Or a self tapper screw each end not driven all the way in.
You will get corrosion occurring with dissimilar metals even with stainless screws and if galvanised - forget it Dead! - reckon bending end upwards or cable tie better - could fix cable tie by drilling a hole through tube if needed?
Good fishing trip nothing breaks, great trip catch fish.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MATTOO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2017 at 8:16am
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Your onto it MacSkipper.
The less you can use dissimilar metals the better.

I can assure, cable ties work a treat.
The whole item takes me five minutes to make.
Why take longer I say.

You'll have to build one to know just how simple and elegant a solution it is.
Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!
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Kiwi #8 wire
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MikeAqua Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug 2017 at 12:04pm
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Good idea. 

I've been looking for an easy way to get some more cable supports under the gunwales on my boat.

Unfortunately I don't have a return on my inwales.  The inwales drop straight down and then about 5mm is folded double at the bottom.

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Clever barstard. well done, simplicity at it's best. I really enjoy seeing how inventive K1w1's come up with problem solvers.
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MikeAqua,

I now your pain, however if you don't mind seeing a portion of the tube you can still use the same principal by putting the slot in the tube end.
Depending on how much height under there you have you can possibly put the slot between half way or a third.
You can dummy up a unit using a wooden dowel first.
To act as a spring to hold it in place against the hull, you could use bicycle rubber or close self foam button to act as a spring or cushion.
Options are endless.
Just cruising in my now sweetas pimped out Southern 755 HT0!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote mattyroo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug 2017 at 9:47am
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Originally posted by MikeAqua MikeAqua wrote:

Good idea. 

I've been looking for an easy way to get some more cable supports under the gunwales on my boat.

Unfortunately I don't have a return on my inwales.  The inwales drop straight down and then about 5mm is folded double at the bottom.


Just terostat some ~6mm doubler plates under the gunwale with pre-drilled and tapped holes, then screw a piece of aluminium u-section upside down to the doublers. Pre-drill the u-section with 2 holes at various intervals for passing cable ties through.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MikeAqua Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Aug 2017 at 2:00pm
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Originally posted by MATTOO MATTOO wrote:

MikeAqua,
I now your pain, however if you don't mind seeing a portion of the tube you can still use the same principal by putting the slot in the tube end.


Perhaps I'm not understanding but there is no protrusion for a slot in the end of a tube to slide over.  The in-wale drops straight down for the gunwale cap and then 5mm is folded double i.e. 180 degrees.  Sketch below.  The doubled section provides a lip about 3mm wide.

Best idea I've come up with is to cut some slices of box section and glue them under the gunwale. 



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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote mattyroo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Aug 2017 at 10:19pm
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mikeaqua, your gunwale is perfect for the suggestion I gave you. Was it clear? If not, I can do a sketch for you.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MikeAqua Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug 2017 at 3:10pm
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A sketch would be great.  I'm having trouble visualising
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See below. Make your doubler plates ablout 40 or so long and a suitable width for the U-channel that you use. You will need two or three doubler plates along the length of your gunwale, depending on total length. Pre-drill and tap them, then bond them into place using terostat or similar. Once bonded, then screw the u channel, with pre-driled holes for cable ties, upside down under the gunwale to the doubler plates. Nice simple cable tray.

Apologies for the lack of detail in the drawing, but just quickly knocked up.



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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MikeAqua Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2017 at 11:38am
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Nice drawing I can see that working well.  With 6mm + channel  I won't need even need to drill all the way through the doubler.

My previous idea was to cut some slices of rectangle section and glue them on two sides (gunwale cap and in-wale), with 3M 5200.

I like your better - the bottom of the channel is open, so it would be easier to run cables.
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