FizFisho wrote: It seems all the brands want to stick with 1.75ish m beams. Which to me is a small beam for a 14ft boat, old school. Which also means a tiny internal beam, barely big enough for 1, 2 max to fish comfortably. Even my last RIB of 14ft had 2.1m beam. And before those that still believe pontoons equal stability, you are wrong. Its beam and hull shape. Its the pontoon acting as a gull wing, almost tri hull if you like that gives the pontoon boat the stability. But id really like some more internal room in a pontoon boat. The 435 aqualine lists 2mish beam, but i dont like their anchoring layout, or lack of. Im looking at cuddy cabs. The blackdog cats are the best but they are out of my price range for equivalent size. If I had the coin id step up to an f16 or similar but I just dont. Any wide beam pontoon allys exist? |
OneWayTraffic wrote: In Fig b) you can see what happens when the boat tips. Since more hull on one side is underwater that tends to push that side upwards, while the other side has less hull underwater and hence less push. So the sum of the two is that the boat wishes to return to level. The more the boat tips the bigger that force. Note that generally a wider beam allows the hull to be further away from the middle, which tends to increase leverage, and hence righting moment. All very true OWT, and a good explanation but a lot of people don't realise that stability is a double edged sword: the same force that is trying to right the boat if one side is further immersed is the same force that is making the boat roll if a wave comes along and rides up one side. As in the above explanation , " the boat wishes to return to level", even though "level" may be a wave face at a 45 degree angle!! |
out2sea wrote: Sorry it may have been written in here already but ill just add what I can from 6 weeks of naval architecture. The stability comes from the shape of the hull in the water, buoyancy comes from the water displaced by the hull. The only time when sealed pontoons will make a difference is when the boat is flooded and the pontoons displace their volume of water creating the added buoyancy. The stability in a pontoon boat obviously comes from the large gull wing style hull they create, although that doesn't equate to a great ride. so there are compromises between stability and ride in every boat. you could quite easily have a standard mono hull that is more stable than a pontoon boat but it would likely have greater beam or a flatter 'v' which in turn would create a harder or harsher ride and change the boats handling characteristics. So most boats are built for a best of both worlds scenario which does mean they seem to follow a hull length to width ratio, I guess that is why most boats of a similar length have a similar beam. |
FizFisho wrote: It seems all the brands want to stick with 1.75ish m beams. Which to me is a small beam for a 14ft boat, old school. Which also means a tiny internal beam, barely big enough for 1, 2 max to fish comfortably. Even my last RIB of 14ft had 2.1m beam. And before those that still believe pontoons equal stability, you are wrong. Its beam and hull shape. Its the pontoon acting as a gull wing, almost tri hull if you like that gives the pontoon boat the stability. But id really like some more internal room in a pontoon boat. The 435 aqualine lists 2mish beam, but i dont like their anchoring layout, or lack of. Im looking at cuddy cabs. The blackdog cats are the best but they are out of my price range for equivalent size. If I had the coin id step up to an f16 or similar but I just dont. Any wide beam pontoon allys exist? |
Joker wrote: IMHO you are right about the beam, volume, extended chines and buoyancy of the basic hull that make a good sea worthy boat. The four points of stability that extended chines give cannot be underestimated. This is not only found in pontoon boats but in the FC range of boats (my current boat a FC500 C/C) with lots of internal space too.A lot of unfashionable boats have superior beam and bow volume to handle better than 2 foot Rangi channel chop - serious out to sea swells need volume up front to handle the swells, often off the west coast from Manukau we always get SW swells with a big N swell side on over the bar to contend with. I go with max beam, volume up front and stability four points. |
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