wet exhaust

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    Posted: 18 Apr 2015 at 12:54pm
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Titanium
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recently put a new exhaust in,now i never bothered about insulation as it never seemed to get hot over short running of a hour,now after been away and done a bit more hours noticed it starting to heat up.
would normal fibre glass with silver backing be ok or is there a proper wrap?
from exhaust flange to muffler/water trap is about 500mm with a water outlet in middle of exhaust
old exhaust had a asbestos type cloth around it and trapped moisture(lasted 30yrs)

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Betty Boop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr 2015 at 1:50pm
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Normal f/g not suitable however if made with fire retardant resin it'll be ok due to alumina loadings added during manufacturing. It can be sourced in small quantities if the correct people are approached
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote pjc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr 2015 at 2:16pm
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Titanium
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Originally posted by Walu Walu wrote:

Normal f/g not suitable however if made with fire retardant resin it'll be ok due to alumina loadings added during manufacturing. It can be sourced in small quantities if the correct people are approached
Thumbs Up thanks for pm
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Don18025 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr 2015 at 3:05pm
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I installed a Powerflow waterlock muffler and exhaust system on my boat. 
All fibreglass and heavy duty exhaust hose. Works really well. 
http://www.powerflow2000.co.nz/
I am trying to understand how your water outlet works from your description.
Your exhaust from the engine, must be directed to the waterlock with the cooling water from salt water circuit on the engine, before the waterlock muffler. From there it will go up in a loop above the waterline and then out of the hull above the waterline. At the top of the loop you may have an antisiphon valve to prevent backflow. From the point the salt water enter the muffler circuit temperatures should be acceptable - that is not to hot to touch on the pipework. The highest temperature will be at the exhaust manifold before the water flows into it.
Correct me if I am wrong? 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote pjc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr 2015 at 4:11pm
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Titanium
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exactly Don,need to insulate from exhaust manifold back to where raw water enters exhaust about 200mm but whole exhaust is 500mm o/a then black rubber to box then black rubber anti syphon loop to transome(valve fitted) above water,turned valve off once,wondered why engine would not start
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote lemmy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr 2015 at 5:58pm
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Had one of those Yanmar mixing elbows give up the ghost on me behind waiheke one day looked perfect from the outside ,Whitings reckons you should replace them every 5 years.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Durban Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2015 at 8:26pm
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Mix vinyl-ester resin with Mapei powder into a thick paste apply the hardener after then mix it again . then apply the mix to the area then wrap Kevlar tape over the area you applied the mix leave to dry then repeat the process again several times using the Kelvar tape & the Mapei powder mixed with vinyl -ester resin . all the above products are heat resistant .
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote pjc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2015 at 8:45pm
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Titanium
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thanks Walu sorted Wink
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