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Caution Plastic Coated Hooks

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    Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 6:53pm
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Titanium
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Last week I fortunately ripped my hand open at the ramp when the plastic coated hook on the transom tie down snapped as tensioned up.
 Far better than dropping the boat off the trailer at 90km/h on a bump.
 The hook is one of those black plastic coated to prevent corrosion.
 Well they prevent till there becomes a leak or damage to the coating.  From there it corrodes away  UNSEEN.
 So got a couple heavy duty small crane strop type hooks.. way over kill.. but they are thick and any corrosion will take yrs to watch before eats away.

I decided to replace the other hook, put the grinder thru the top loop where the strop is sawn in... damn that was ready to snap there...

My tie downs had a sawn double over to stop it pulling all the way out of the ratchet part. I thought I may have to chop that off to loop thru the new hook eye.  With surprisingly little pushing , wiggling and but silicon it slipped thru the ratchet slot.. and slightly more effort to get it back thru.

So now I have a serious non use of corrosion resistant plastic coated stuff that may need to take a load.

Check.. well cant without cutting them open...
 Replace your plastic coated hooks and stuff... with something you can see if corroded / stressed.

 So now thats the bow towing eye.. snapped because of the angle it loads on and size
The winch hook straightened out.. get a load rated one
 Both older posts..

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote JustAnotherSpearo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 7:05pm
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Blimey! Glad that you (and the commander) are ok Steps. Now that you have had this issue.. thinking about it.. There is rust marks on the alloy trailer from these hooks.. Might pay to check it out well before things hit the fan so to speak.

Cheers for the heads up Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote smudge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 7:59pm
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Bugger! Hope you have recovered ok Steps. I wouldn't have ever checked for that


Best gurnard fisherman in my street
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Shrekky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2017 at 8:05pm
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I have had winch hooks and composite winch ropes snap, while driving. Both times, the safety chain has caught it. Whether the strops at the rear of the boat, would have held?, i dont know.
I posted pictures of the winch eye, i removed it and found it badly corroded, visions of a boat rolling off the trailer, flashed before my eyes.
Keep those safety chains short, just in case that winch lets go..
you can't fix an idiot with duct tape, but it does muffle them for a while...
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2017 at 9:14am
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Titanium
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Bugger! Hope you have recovered ok Steps.
 
 m8 its only a rip in the hand.. maybe a few stitches should have been the go...nah  had a boat to unload, fish to fillet.. needed shower , dinner..Wink

Hand ok Smudge.. just a deep rip thru the palm.. poured some kero (paraffin lamp oil) thru it when got home.
Just hurts when knock the wound.. left open healing up well.
 looks good along side the other slice few days before...
 Grandchildren had been hammering the end of my hedgeclipers, bent over the end . Go to use them big deep slice across the heel of the palm...damn that bled .. parrfin oil pured in stops bleeding..heals quick. Wife growled that definitely should have hand stitches... but the drive need a trim before taking the boat up to go fishing...

I run a big tie down plus winch and safety chain on the front. The big tie down is mainly so can take the load off the plastic bushes in the winch...
 Every time I break something its at the ramp when tying down. The bow eye was pulling up the big tie down..
 We just looped the warp around the front bollard, down to the trailer... tied down 2x times.

 The rear tie down , just knot around rear trailer crossmember and used tie down as normal...no matter what nothing can let go ..
 If the front bow eye lets go, then the 2 rear tie downs still hold the boat on the trailer.
 Boat always secure, no matter what may break..
nothing left to break any more thu.







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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote muchalls Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov 2017 at 10:20pm
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Ouch!
2 short ratchet straps with SS ratchet, they also had plastic coated hooks. I ditched them for SS hooks S shape, with plastic tubing to close off one end and keep it on the strap (like plastic tubing on a gaff, if that makes sense? )
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 2017 at 8:57am
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Titanium
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2 short ratchet straps with SS ratchet, they also had plastic coated hooks.
Yep thats them....
 I dont trust stainles hooks either.. stainless is not a strong steel.. bent the stainless winch hook long time ago.
There are rated stainless hooks and unrated... Trogen are rated.. the others next to them on the shelf are unrated.. and note the difference in diameter to

 Same goes for stainless shackles on your trailer safety chain.. if you pass a WoF with one thats is not stamped and rated, then your WoF guy hasnt read any of the WoF bulletins for a long time, nor the industry MTA  "Radiator " mag . A WoF is a safety check.. you really want a safety check done with incompetence?
 Even if a Stainless shackle is rated, chances are the WoF inspector will fail it.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Rozboon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 2017 at 9:27am
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Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:


 Even if a Stainless shackle is rated, chances are the WoF inspector will fail it.

Yep, the standard (and application of it) is a bit of a mess, they'll fail a rated stainless shackle but the unrated 20 year old galv one is fine.

A friend was in a not-insignificant crash with his boat on the back; the winch-post to boat connection held up but the hull failed around the ring meaning the boat made a graceful exit stage left and ended up on top of a parked car, car and boat both written off; the trailer coupling came away and the safety chain snapped like a candy cane. 

Rated chain, rated shackles, proper attachment at both ends and the chain kept so short that the tongue can't hit the road and you miiiiight have a chance of catching one that comes off.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 2017 at 12:07pm
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Titanium
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Yep, the standard (and application of it) is a bit of a mess

 The standard as to bearings, hitch, lights, chains, shackles etc is quite simple, laid out very clear in the WoF manual (now on line) and bulletins.
Its the application thats is the problem in many workshops, even vtnz etc... and a area that the auditors on site maybe look more close at... if there is a trailer there at the time.
 They are damn tight on everything else

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Rozboon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 2017 at 1:26pm
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Originally posted by Steps Steps wrote:

Yep, the standard (and application of it) is a bit of a mess

 The standard as to bearings, hitch, lights, chains, shackles etc is quite simple, laid out very clear in the WoF manual (now on line) and bulletins.


The standard for towing connections just says that a sub-2000kg trailer must have a safety chain, and it must be roughly strong enough (by the assessors estimation only) to take twice the load of the trailer.

For 2500kg+ you must have 2 chains of at least 7.1mm cross section, but under that, it just has to look strong.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 2017 at 3:55pm
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Titanium
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2 short ratchet straps with SS ratchet, they also had plastic coated hooks. I ditched them for SS hooks S shape, with plastic tubing to close off one end and keep it on the strap (like plastic tubing on a gaff, if that makes sense? )

 
This is what  I replaced with.. bit of over kill but as it turns out they are heavy enough that can simply swing into place rather than reach down and hook...
"work hard at being lazy".. accidentally this time Wink



This is the full WoF for light trailer hitches
Mandatory equipment

1. A trailer with a laden weight (Note 2) of 2000kg or less without a compliant breakaway brake, except for the following trailers, does not have a safety chain or cable:

  • a trailer designed for armament purposes by the New Zealand Defence Force.
  • a trailer pump for fire fighting purposes.

2. A trailer with a laden weight (Note 2) between 2001kg and 2500kg (where the vehicle inspector is able to determine the laden weight) that does not have a compliant breakaway brake:

a) is not fitted with two safety chains that cross each other when connected, or

b) has chain links with a material cross-section less than 7.1mm, or there is no evidence that each chain has a breaking strength of at least twice the laden weight of the trailer (Note 3).

Condition

3. The drawbar or drawbar mounting (or kingpin or kingpin mounting):

a) is not securely attached, or

b) has a bolt, nut or pin that is missing or significantly corroded or damaged, or

c) has corrosion damage (Note 1) within 150mm of a mounting point, or

d) is cracked or distorted.

4. The drawbar coupling (or kingpin):

a) is not securely attached, or

b) is not mounted in accordance with manufacturer’s specifications, or

c) is worn beyond the manufacturer’s specifications, or

d) is significantly corroded, distorted or cracked, or

e) has a nut  or locking pin that is missing or significantly corroded.

5. A safety chain or cable (including any welded joint, securing bolt or shackle):

a) is not securely attached to the drawbar, or

b) is welded to the drawbar, and

i. there is no clear evidence of weld penetration, or

ii. the weld metal has not been applied in accordance with good trade practice, or

iii. there is no evidence that the chain can be welded without reducing its strength, or

iv. the weld is significantly corroded, has deteriorated or is cracked.

c) is significantly corroded, distorted or cracked, or

d) has a bolt or shackle that is missing, significantly corroded, distorted or cracked, or

e) appears to be too weak to withstand a load of about twice the likely maximum laden weight (as far as can be reasonably estimated by the inspector) (Note 3).

Note 1

Corrosion damage is where the metal has been eaten away, which is evident by pitting. The outward signs of such corrosion damage is typically displayed by the lifting or bubbling of paint. In extreme cases, the area affected by the corrosion damage will fall out and leave a hole.

Note 2

Laden weight means the weight of the trailer and its load, if any, for the time being carried. A vehicle inspector may be presented with a trailer (usually unladen, such as a boat, car or horse trailer) that has a laden weight below 2000kg, but that is likely to have a laden weight exceeding 2000kg when it carries its normal load. In such a case, the vehicle inspector should make the vehicle operator aware, for example by putting a note on the checksheet, that the trailer may not comply with safety chain or shackle requirements when the trailer carries its normal load.

Note 3

A safety chain or shackle may be marked as complying with a standard and with a chain designation size that equals the maximum laden weight of the trailer, for example, with 25 or 2500 which denotes 2500kg. This means the chain is suitable for a trailer with a laden weight of up to 2500kg as the standard has already taken into account the required breaking strength.



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