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Building a ply dinghy.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2017 at 8:40pm
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Platinum
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Decided to put a hatch in the back. With access now I removed the bolts (hit them with a hammer), drilled out the holes a bit and refilled with thickened epoxy. I cut out two 9mm pieces of ply slightly bigger than the beachmaster bracket and drilled holes using the beachmaster wheels as a jig to locate them. I have glued this on now and it is setting up.

The hatch has been cut out, the screw holes drilled to 10mm and filled with epoxy. Duct tape under or behind all holes to stop drips. I will let the epoxy set up then drill a pilot hole and screw into it. I was thinking I would need to stiffen up the area near the hatch a bit (doubling the ply) but it seems solid. I generally sit the other side anyway.




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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote mikejf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2017 at 11:26pm
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sweet, looking good. when is it going in the water ?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2017 at 11:32pm
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I have decided not to set dates that I'll just break. Need to make it pretty first. Definitely by the time summer salmon appear at the river mouths though.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote The cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2017 at 9:34am
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Looking good.
Word of warning those rectangle hatches always leak. the round screw in ones are much better (I know not very helpful now the hole is cut).
If the divine creator has taken pains to give us delicious and exquisite things to eat, the least we can do is prepare them well and serve them with ceremony.
Fernand Point
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2017 at 2:45pm
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Platinum
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I'll keep it as sealed as I can, but needed to get in for access to the back. I had also considered the desirability of getting in to ensure ventilation.

 I will put 3 litre milkjugs filled with polystyrene beads for flotation. At this stage I am thinking I'll duct tape them together and look for a way to bond them to the sides so they won't move around. The boat should float itself anyway; just need a bit extra for insurance. 




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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2017 at 7:29pm
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The hatch is sealed around the lid but sealing the screw holes and under the outside seems to be left to me. Also the latch has a small gap around it. I haven't seen a round access port in person, but I assume it's just tighter?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 2017 at 11:17am
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Titanium
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 I will put 3 litre milkjugs filled with polystyrene beads for flotation. At this stage I am thinking I'll duct tape them together and look for a way to bond them to the sides so they won't move around.

Heavy plastic bag, 1/2 fill, jamb in the cavity then finish off packing to fill the space.. tight.  doesnt matter if the bag is too big.. in fact better, to fill the space and not move...

 Do you really NEED fully sealed hatch, secure latching would be of more importance??
 

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Don't need it. I knew they all leak a little. Would like to keep it down as much as I reasonably can at this stage though.
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I have a similar hatch in the deck (alloy chequer-plate) of my boat for accessing the bilge pumps etc.  It's a slightly larger, square(ish) model with two catches.  It doesn't let any water through.

My hatch is installed on the centre line close to the transom.  It's an area where water can't really pond - unless I ship a lot of water.  I used 3M-4200 under the hatch surrounds, in all the screw holes and between the flat washers and the underside of the deck.

I can't see a lot of water ponding where you have your hatch - you have problems if it does Ermm

I think you will be fine sealing the hatch against plywood.




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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2017 at 9:15am
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Titanium
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And rem you NEED a drain hole/ plug in a cavity. Say it capsizes, all that weight yet small boat,  you will never pull it over...
  Wash down.. need to tip it up to drain ...and get right angle to drain everything out... and if not drained / dried, mould etc issues

Put in perspective
 Its a little dinghy, not a 6/7m cabin boat.
 Its very easy to get caught in the 'details trap' on a project, espec if 1st time round.  My 1st full/ major car resto many decades ago.. end use .. a looker but not a trailer queen .. ie trailered to shows, never driven in rain etc.
Was sitting down looking at the bare chassis, seriously planing to fill in the welds and smooth out type detailing.
 Then a experienced friend reminded me of just what my original and still current end use was/ is....
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If it capsizes I am probably in the poo where ever I am. I will also probably be within swimming distance of the shore. Best trout fishing is usually the dropoff of lakes not out in the middle. If not I do have lifejackets and always carry a beacon. 

At the moment I have holes drilled and filled for the hatches, the beachmaster wheels and the railblaza attachment points. I plan to sand, epoxy coat the fairing putty and paint. Install the fittings and done!

Should be done in a month assuming we have painting weather on consecutive Saturdays.


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MikeAqua Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2017 at 11:07am
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I wouldn't bother with a drain plug for the seat cavity.  Your chances of draining it on the water are slim at best.

Back on land - open the lid to dry it out Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2017 at 11:48am
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Platinum
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That's the current plan. After I use it for a season I will have a better handle on what else is required. If it was a flat floor I'd drill holes in the sides and plug. As it is I can tip it over to drain.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2017 at 6:25pm
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Titanium
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How heavy is it?
It is build 'solid' to say the least.....Wink

Im just thinking here... If had a removable wheel on the bow..3 wheels..
that makes it into one of those old fashioned type kids trolleys that got pulled along by a rod attached to the front wheel...
  a horizontal eye top center of the bow, just over the edge.. another where the tow ring would go...A rod from the wheel.. one of those steering off set ones....up thru...  ???? load it up at the car....and unload.???
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct 2017 at 11:32am
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Platinum
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At an estimate:

Ply 15-20kg

Fiberglass 3kg

Epoxy 11 kg.

Wheels 4kg.

Misc 4kg.

So under 40kg.

I'll try to weigh it sometime.


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Don18025 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct 2017 at 2:46pm
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OneWay looking forward to seeing the bottom of that boat being graced by some trophy fish. Great effort and thankyou for sharing your story.

There is an American boat the "Wheelbarrow Boat" that meets all Steps planned future moves. Have a closer look here; https://www.offcenterharbor.com/videos/ladybug-wheelbarrow-boat/
And plans are here; http://www.harrybryan.com/harrybryan/boats.html

Summer is coming, so better get my boat ready....
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote OneWayTraffic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2017 at 12:51pm
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Platinum
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Two coats of undercoat on. The second had some overcoat mixed in according to manufacturers instructions. Easier to see where I've been and gives depth of colour.

From a distance it is beginning to look good. Up close you can definitely see where I could have spent more time finishing. Not too concerned to be honest, though I would take heed next time round.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2017 at 2:17pm
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Titanium
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The second had some overcoat mixed in according to manufacturers instructions. Easier to see where I've been and gives depth of colour.

 Yep  A little trick and old school car painter told me yrs ago... back in the days of dulon/ enamels 90 plus days.  and also a old school house painter...in particular interior plastered walls
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