What Line Are You Using?

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote FishMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2015 at 2:14pm
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From memory - 50lbs
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote DeVille Incarnate Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2015 at 9:40pm
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I don't think you really need anything heavier than 40lbs for your backing unless you're aiming to use heavy tippets i.e. over 20lbs breaking strain, which is roughly the norm for swf.
I have 30lb backing on my 9# and 50lb on my 12# but my tippets on both never go over 20lb. Even fishing the channel markers recently I had a 60lb shock leader but 20lb mono between that and the fly line on my 12#. I did change the 9# to a straight 40lb leader but only because we were on a boat and so able to follow if I hooked a big one. I would never consider doing that from a land based position.

Approach with extreme caution - I NEVER look where my back cast is going....
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tom.Daniel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2015 at 11:31pm
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Probably go 40- 50lb on the 11# wght then, see what's available in the local stores, will only use a rod length of straight 20lb fluorocarbon leader, no heavier,will only use as a heavy set, I occasionally put a 8lb tippet on the end of my 20lb leader on the #8 rod to even the odds up when only small KY and trevally are around, lots of fun.Thanks for the input guys.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Pole Dancer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 2015 at 11:48pm
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I disagree with DeVille Incarnate on this one... (Sorry Geoff).

Your backing should always exceed the breaking strain of your line otherwise when you get a big one on and it runs well into the back there is a good chance the backing will break before the flyline meaning you loose the lot.

I follow the mantra that everything from the Arbor to the fly drops down in weight. Backing 60 - 80 lb, flyline 35 - 50lb Leader 22lb

Most likely outcome in dire situation the leader breaks and you lose a fly, not a $140 flyline.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tom.Daniel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan 2015 at 3:54am
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[QUOTE=Clark Reid]Your backing should always exceed the breaking strain of your line otherwise when you get a big on and it runs well into the back there is a good chance the backing will break before the flyline meaning you loose the lot

Absolutely Clark, thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Rudy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan 2015 at 10:14am
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As well, braid is such fine diameter, therefore if you use 30-40lb backing, you need braid for Africa to fill most SW reels.  

Using 60-80lb braid gives you peace of mind, and is more cost effective.  Even then, you'll still fit a couple hundred meters of braid onto most reels, which is tons.  

If a fish takes that much backing, then you know you're in trouble / in for a big long fight! Smile  
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Millsy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2015 at 4:36pm
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Recently I tried something different. With good results I might add.
  
As you may have noticed if you follow my rants, I use 2 main types of lines; Rio Outbound Short and their Bass line. 

The reason I started using the Bass line with its 26ft sinking tip section was that I fish a lot of places where there is current along edges of sandy drop offs etc. It is the usual scenario when you fish shallow sandy places with deep channels like most of out west coast harbours and some notable east coast ones as well (Parengarenga would fit this bill). 

The issue I had with the Outbound short with the floating main line and intermediate tip was that it just wouldn't find the bottom where the fish are. When it did and I felt strikes or "nudges" I would strip and the either hook up or the fly would lift and the whole system would come of the bottom and be dragged out of the strike zone by the current and into no mans land. So generally this would mean one shot at where the fish were holding and that was all.

The bass line solved this problem, providing constant contact with the bottom, I could feel every touch, nudge and nibble and when I struck, if there wasn't a hook up, the fly would still be in contact with the bottom so I would get another go in the strike zone.

This meant two lines however, and two spools. 

What I discovered that works just as good, if not a tad better. The "normal" Rio Outbound full intermediate line and add a 10ft VersiLeader tapered sinking leader to the end.

Trialed this for the last couple of sessions out. Just perfect. 10ft is just a nice amount to have sinking and when I don't need it i.e the current drops off and I want to fish the shallows, I just take it off, loop to loop styles.

This is my current 7wt set up. Works just as well on my 6wt.



I have noticed an increase in hits with this system. This morning I was rewarded with a snapper around 4lb, fishing a rocky drop off. Think I will stick with this for a while yet.

.








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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote FISHBYFLY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2015 at 8:01pm
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good tip!

I use the outbound which is the full intermediate with a fast sinking 30ft tip,[for snaps trevs]haven't used it for yonks cause im just targeting kings at mo]

Anyways I find in the wavewalk with drogue out, [in 3 metres and less], I dip the rod quite a way underthe surface to maintain a straight line, works well but do ya reckon one of those Basslines might be better?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote muchalls Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2015 at 8:36pm
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Off the current 'line' of the thread, but what about using a floating line with a longer leader (as in more than the usual 2m of 16lb fluoro) for surface schooling Kahawai?
It might enable a novice like me to get a decent cast!
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Originally posted by muchalls muchalls wrote:

Off the current 'line' of the thread, but what about using a floating line with a longer leader (as in more than the usual 2m of 16lb fluoro) for surface schooling Kahawai?
It might enable a novice like me to get a decent cast!

I reckon if the KY were on the surface a floating line is fine without a long leader but you can also cast a line like the outbound short a good distance if shot properly. If your in the surf or wading getting the hang of a stripping basket and using that will help if you need distance.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Millsy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2015 at 9:18am
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Originally posted by FISHBYFLY FISHBYFLY wrote:

Anyways I find in the wavewalk with drogue out, [in 3 metres and less], I dip the rod quite a way underthe surface to maintain a straight line, works well but do ya reckon one of those Basslines might be better?

One of the places I found the bass line works really well is that spot I see you sometimes near Huia, in that trench in front of the bay. Particularly on tides 3.8 and bigger. No really foul in there but increased my hookup rate considerably. I find trevally are always top lip hook with the clouser sitting in its "normal" position. That tells me it is sitting the right way on the bottom and IS on the bottom.

It works well in those sorts of places. At full tide I switch back to the normal Outbound intermediate.


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote FISHBYFLY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2015 at 3:10pm
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cher,
Nice work,havent been to that spot for a while,been sidetracked!

The trickiness of those Trevs, any improvement on fly system is a welcome improvement.


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Pole Dancer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2015 at 7:48am
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Just having a read through this and I reckon this is a very cool thread with some great info and thoughts!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Pole Dancer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2015 at 7:50am
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Originally posted by muchalls muchalls wrote:

Off the current 'line' of the thread, but what about using a floating line with a longer leader (as in more than the usual 2m of 16lb fluoro) for surface schooling Kahawai?
It might enable a novice like me to get a decent cast!

You could comfortably go to 3 meters without too many issues without tapering, however if used with one of the clear lines there is probably little need.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Millsy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2015 at 8:39am
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If kahawai are shy, use 10 or 12lb fluro. It is plenty. I also used a silicon smelt fly this season with great results. People tend to think kahawai take anything, they can be fussy at times.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Pole Dancer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2015 at 8:48am
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Yep they can, I use little eyed bait patterns when they are fussy! I also have said many times with Kahawai really fast retrieves are usually important but I've had days they'd only take on the drop as well. It's always good to mix it up.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Millsy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2015 at 10:16am
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Think I will just tack this on here rather than the king threads.

Couple of posts up I posted on the value of having a VersiLeader in your pocket.

This theory of getting the fly in in the right depth was reinforced during a session on kings yesterday.

I had made up a 7ft RIO T-20 tip with loop connections for use with kings. I whipped a loop in one end a put a braided loop on the other. After 20+ kings both loops are holding up so its good to know both systems work although the braided loop is lighter than the double over whipped loop.

Yesterday I sat outside a shallow area with current running out an over a reef into about 1.5-2m of water. After 30mins a king around 40lb blew through and sat in the eddy of the reef, on the bottom about 10ft out from me. Tricky. I will add it this time, I hadnt attached my 7ft T-20 sink tip.

So I cast out, a few strips no interest. Repeated process 4 times before he left. They don't hang around long.

I was scratching my head when another two came past. Both around 25lb. Same deal.

Of course what was happening was the fly wasn't getting to their level quick enough if at all.

I quickly switched out and connected my hand made T-20. Took less than 2 minutes and I was back in the game.

Next pair came through. One cast and the fly sunk like a stone, first strip, big head turn, mouth wide open, fly disappearing... ...rest is history. Simple lesson. Kings move fast, your fly needs to get in their face asap, no point waiting for it to sink, ain't going to happen.

Ended up with 3 before my arm got to sore and I stopped for a rest to drift the shallows again and look for tails.

Yes, they are a b i t c h to cast but you're not looking for distance anyway. You're looking to get the fly down quick to where you last spotted that king or where you can see him lying. It is a pretty basic principle.

So with the VersiLeader and the 7ft T-20 I've got most basses covered without the need for more rods and line.











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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Kevin.S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2015 at 11:43am
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Are those Rio versileaders the same thing as the Airflow polyleaders?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Millsy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2015 at 11:52am
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No.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Kevin.S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2015 at 12:32pm
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So what's the difference? (sorry if I'm missing the blindingly obvious here)
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