New Trailer Built Blog

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tonyg26 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: New Trailer Built Blog
    Posted: 08 Sep 2014 at 8:11pm
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So building myself a new Trailer for my 1973 Fleetline Sapphire 4.5m boat,
Thought I would do a bit of a blog of the build with photos ect,
Im only a young whippa snapper so has been a good learning experience and gets the brain thinking,
should have a nice rig by the end of it,

So the original 1973 Reid trailer had done its dash for me, had a good run but i travel long distances with my boat and it gets used heaps and kept fatigue cracking, sick of patching it up, I was going to scrap this but listed it on the "buy & sell forums" here and user "wanabe" had a good use for it and ended up saving it from the scrapyard and buying it off me,  
Few photos below of what i've done todate, restoring of some old wheels and the build of chassis, hoping to test fit soon,
I have gone for the same style as old one but with a few changes, as you'll see, didn't want to go multiroll as it launched and retrieved well as is and i was told to keep the center keel rollers as most of my boats strength is here,
Major changes:, Box section not channel, bigger wheels, leaf springs not dura-torques, 


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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tonyg26 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2014 at 8:21pm
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tonyg26 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2014 at 8:31pm
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Mocking up axle and springs, going to gullwing axle as roller runner is close to axle,
not running with the idea here of stub mounted above axle, gullwing will look better aswell,
Style in picture ugly, but was just throwing around ideas.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Captn Phil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep 2014 at 7:43am
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Nice work. 
Taking sportfishing charters to the next level.
Blue Water Adventures Ltd
Whangaroa / Bay of Islands
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MikeAqua Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep 2014 at 9:27am
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Looking good.  Are you going to drill some drain/flush holes in the box section?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Double Shot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep 2014 at 9:40am
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Looking good...are you adding guide poles? How are you going to run the cables for the lights? Keep up the blog...
70ml of 90deg C water pressurised through 13g of roasted finely ground tamped coffee for 25sec's to make a distinguishing sensory hit called a Double Shot    
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (1) Likes(1)   Quote the angler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep 2014 at 12:40pm
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Nice tittie calendar in the workshop.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Time_Bandit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep 2014 at 5:38pm
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fine job your making there mate.
“Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.”

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tonyg26 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep 2014 at 11:00pm
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Cheers guys,
Yea going to drill drain/flush holes in box section before galv ect,
also going to run the light cables through the box section so its unseen,
Not running guide poles, never had any issues with the old trailer with out them and i do alot of west coast retrieving.
Yes the tittie calendar is nice, ill flip it over for the next pic haha Tongue

Not much progress tonight, Mounted and drilled keel roller holders and cut/finished/welded the new gullwing axle, assembled hubs-stubs ect,
just tacked on spring carriers to date, may need to move if drawbar weight is wrong.
see pic below

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote the angler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep 2014 at 6:36am
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Have you thought about filling the box section with boiled linseed oil then plugging the holes to keep the linseed in and the saltwater out ? , will never rust from the inside .
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MikeAqua Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep 2014 at 9:38am
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Do you think this is feasible in the medium term? I've often thought about it but it would require airtight welds that stay air tight.  If saltwater got in and it couldn't get out ....



Originally posted by the angler the angler wrote:

Have you thought about filling the box section with boiled linseed oil then plugging the holes to keep the linseed in and the saltwater out ? , will never rust from the inside .
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote the angler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep 2014 at 10:22am
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Must be reasonably easy to achieve as 3 mates have just had trailers built useing this technique I used waste oil in my box section and had a couple of leaks but I did it myself , apparently boiled linseed is better as it attracks and absorbs oxygen or something , I guess you could test your welds by pressureiseing the section thru your oil access hole .
And they are not galveing them either but useing a coating used to protect steel on offshore oil rigs but as taranaki is the Texas of New Zealand there is probably more access to this technology.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MikeAqua Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2014 at 10:06am
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I know of a company who makes food processing machinery.  They build fully sealed frames for their equipment and fill them with pressurised nitrogen.  A pressure sensor is built in and a drop in pressure indicates a leak. 

So it can be done, but complicated to add fittings and fixtures to that sort of structure without compromising the sealed chambers and if gas can get in so can water. 

Another approach is to leave all the box section open at both ends.  - every tow is an internal blow dry.  I just sold a 1987 trailer built using this approach and there wasn't any rust anywhere inside the box section.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MikeAqua Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2014 at 10:18am
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Tony you could attach the spring carriers with U-bolts then you can move back and forth to fine tune.

This is the set up on a few brands of trailers now.

Originally posted by Tonyg26 Tonyg26 wrote:

Cheers guys,
just tacked on spring carriers to date, may need to move if drawbar weight is wrong.
see pic below
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tonyg26 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2014 at 9:52pm
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yea could do mike, i just think that adjustable trailers look ugly, 
i like fixed rollers spring carriers, front post with snub block all fixed and welded,
looks much nicer and less u-bolts/threads to seize and rust, 

downfalls though = trailer is only good for that style of boat and cannot be adjusted,

on the whole filling with linseed oil ect topic: isn't the point of breatherholes when galving also lets the galv run through the inside and coat the inside of the box section? 

im building this thing like a hilux (over engineered) so i imagine it will out live the boat.

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Tonyg26 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2014 at 9:37pm
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WinkWinkSo made a bit of Progress,
Got the Boat on the trailer!!! Rollers on with stainless rod and circlips.
All fitted fine (nearly..)! Adjusted the rear rollers on u-bolts so just need to mark cut and weld them on,
Things that didn't run so sweet:
When measuring the width of the boat I measured it at the rear and assumed that it was parallel then tapered off to the nose, WRONG.. it gets wider half way down so my axle is too short and tyres are 5mm off touching the hull, (see pics below). also my springs were too soft, have swapped these.
there was also not enough spring travel so I have added 25mm between my spring hangers and chassis.
Tonight i have cut my axle and extended it by 150mm,  test fitted and have more space to work with so happy as,
Winch is too close to boat, need to move forward and extend 50mm RHS with vee block attached,
Tomorrows Mission: mount guards.
Hopefully take boat back off weld on rear roller frames and weld my tacks into full welds (as it worked).
Note: (new Tittie calendar on wall, this is major shed progress...)









Wink alot more room with extened axle! ^^^^^

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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote maccasparks Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2014 at 9:57pm
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Nice work - but check out the XR!
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep 2014 at 9:54am
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What is the budget upto so far?
"Another approach is to leave all the box section open at both ends.  - every tow is an internal blow dry.  I just sold a 1987 trailer built using this approach and there wasn't any rust anywhere inside the box section. "
Yep recon thats the way to go.....
Sticking the garden hose or water blaster from each end to rinse out....
And if wish to spray something like fisholene or whatever, up the inside occassionaly, a garden spray nozzle on the end of a plastic tube and pressure sprayer and stick does the job real well as maintaince.
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote MikeAqua Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep 2014 at 11:40am
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Steps for a new trailer would you apply fisholene or similar straight internally away or wait for the galv to oxidise?
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Post Options Post Options   Likes (0) Likes(0)   Quote Steps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep 2014 at 3:19pm
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For galv to work it needs to oxidese....basicaly what happens is Zn is higly reactive with air, so the top surface atoms react (rust) with air....Zinc oxide is a very stable compound, and since the zinc oxide molecules are bigger than the zinc atoms and they bind well, they form a crust that protects the rest of the zinc under that...
If the surface is too fresh then the barrier is not there....so best to seal after surface oxidation.
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